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How did you test the fuses?

Thanks - I have ordered a new battery - will get back to you soon.

Ok so the 12v line is failed , and you say battery ok? ( Battery could still be a problem , volts ok no current ) What happens if you disconnect the battery and PIR and bell Loop the tampers and restart , only battery fault? Or DC fault also remains?

There is only one PIR on the system and the light is off. So I guess it's not working?

Pirs all working? If so board is shot possibly

Hi, Yes, I think the battery is ok - It was showing over 12.6v.

Is main system battery ok?

Thanks - I have checked all the fuses and they seem ok.

Blown fuse or possibly panel. Check for AUX voltage with a multimeter.

Hi all, I removed a friend's Bell Box as they were having some work done. ...a few months later I have now re-installed a Texecom 1E Sounder - But the alarm panel is now showing an error: AUX DC FAIL Any help or advise please? Thanks

It will be in acpo / npcc I fought against a reg with no industry input like essentials.

I'm considering doing this, I believe the 1st bunch of people did Fec 2925 ISH ?

Industry backed and controlled cyber security scheme rather than cyber essentials which isnt particulary relevent to our industry and controlled outside of it. CySPAG Registered Installers | CySPAG

done that too. No change. Believe it needs an exit shunt lock but it’s gonna get re engineered by someone I know.

try turning the exit vr down

I tapped it too, still no luck

Momentary short/open

You would’ve thought however no matter if I link it or not, nothing changes at all. cheers

I'd assume an Exit Terminate to be Normal Open & Only Closed when someone it pressing it ?

Hello people. i am completely lost with this panel. It’s an old a1 thing, however it is coming up with an ‘EXIT’ light and won’t set. No exit zone and Exit terminator has been both linked and left as is with no joy. Any help is appreciated tia jay

Thanks, as i say i've only started looking at it today as its in a rented property and tenant only advised now it doesnt work. Dont want to spend too much time but it looks fairly logical. Only has a front door and back door (now missing) contact and a single room IR sensor connected. AFAIU it has inputs for these plus a tamper microswitch on the case and then outputs for a buzzer and the bell. My summation is the back door sensor has been cut/ hidden and for now i can simply loop that out to prove my point.

look at a contact I'd guess black & blue for tamper then red & yellow for alarm twist what remains of the wires together...

That makes sense, was thinking due to its age it wasnt particularly sensitive info. As i say i think i can have a play and work things out was just looking for any info.

Manuals area is trade only, normally you will have 4 wires going the the door contact two will be circuit the other two will be tamper. Looking at the age of that panel when was it last serviced ? Has the battery been replaced within the last 4 years?

As i say i think i could try and work it out as seems relatively simple in terms of connections and i could bypass the dodgy circuit ( i think) but a manual or instalation wiring diagram would be useful. There is one on here but says i can't download so assume thats either my newbie status or some security thing?