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done that too. No change. Believe it needs an exit shunt lock but it’s gonna get re engineered by someone I know.

try turning the exit vr down

I tapped it too, still no luck

Momentary short/open

You would’ve thought however no matter if I link it or not, nothing changes at all. cheers

I'd assume an Exit Terminate to be Normal Open & Only Closed when someone it pressing it ?

Hello people. i am completely lost with this panel. It’s an old a1 thing, however it is coming up with an ‘EXIT’ light and won’t set. No exit zone and Exit terminator has been both linked and left as is with no joy. Any help is appreciated tia jay

Thanks, as i say i've only started looking at it today as its in a rented property and tenant only advised now it doesnt work. Dont want to spend too much time but it looks fairly logical. Only has a front door and back door (now missing) contact and a single room IR sensor connected. AFAIU it has inputs for these plus a tamper microswitch on the case and then outputs for a buzzer and the bell. My summation is the back door sensor has been cut/ hidden and for now i can simply loop that out to prove my point.

look at a contact I'd guess black & blue for tamper then red & yellow for alarm twist what remains of the wires together...

That makes sense, was thinking due to its age it wasnt particularly sensitive info. As i say i think i can have a play and work things out was just looking for any info.

Manuals area is trade only, normally you will have 4 wires going the the door contact two will be circuit the other two will be tamper. Looking at the age of that panel when was it last serviced ? Has the battery been replaced within the last 4 years?

As i say i think i could try and work it out as seems relatively simple in terms of connections and i could bypass the dodgy circuit ( i think) but a manual or instalation wiring diagram would be useful. There is one on here but says i can't download so assume thats either my newbie status or some security thing?

Just this one: Or found this image on line

Got a picture of it?

Hi I have an old alarm system as above which has developed a fault ( i think since the back door was changed and sensor lost by installer) inside it looks fairly logical in terms of circuits - guessing open/ closed etc triggers alarm or exit delat etc. Appreciate its old tech but if i can fix it i would like too. I see there is a link to a manual on here but i dont have permssion to down load - is it me or is it an old link etc? Any help greatfully appreciated, thanks

Verisure, Eufy, Ring all junk. Texecom is what I fit but not supported for end user installation. Maybe Scantronic?

Thanks for that too! I don't have it (Siren was second hand off eBay) but looking at the batteries I ordered the splitter is included. What's the standard now in wireless alarms, Texecom or the likes? I hate those new ones by verisure and eufy etc.

Hopefully you have the Y splitter cable that comes with the siren or you can't plug them in.

Thanks for your reply, I've ordered the batteries. Thank you for your opinion on the system too, I got the panel and 2 PIRs free. I am on a tight budget and between something like a Micromark shed alarm this was the better option .

poor security 1 way wireless, discontinued kit, not the most popular model of this old stuff either so not advised for fitting in 2026 at all... MCS-740 is updated model of the 730. Red cap on the lid screw would be a K-305177

From memory there a big round one from a gasfire or pair with flying lead ?

Hi all, I have purchased and installed most of a Visonic system, the main panel being a Visonic PowerMax Express. I am looking to purchase batteries for the external sounder but am not sure which model number to use for the search as on the abs housing it is labeled as an MCS-740 and on the PCB it is labeled as an MCS-730. This is of course stupidity on my part but if someone could humour be I'd be very much obliged. Matthew

Well sounder stops right ? Can't you put a sounder closer to the front door

The sounder is in the middle of the house behind two door, so I mightn't hear it. Even the sound from the panel is difficult enough to hear, even though I don't have an insulated door. Is there any way of changing the tone on the panel so it indicates a successful arm?