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You have a twin?

Yes, like vases a pair have a greater value

Two of the same

I'm still here

Hello again... You've just made it back in time to see my smashing new steps- Ahh, I just released why people leave :)

Bonjour

Yo

Hi just re found (If thats the correct word lol) Been at ADT for agggggges (Made redundant then went to Chubb and now back for my sins at ADT) just thought id pop in and say Hi

Thats a good idea to be fair, ill make sure I have a look night

Fair challenge al-yeti, I don't know of any for the i-ON. I was talking about addressable detectors in general and should have been clearer, so for virdi it's conventional PIRs on zones. Thanks james for the Risco and HKC examples.

You don't need to adjust it tho, default will give a long lasting battery unless you want to keep a faulty device going ? Even the ones that are opened allot Just use a decent battery if your not replacing yearly really

On the battery question: real-life life on Ajax kit depends a lot on the detector ping interval set on the hub. Leave it at a sensible default rather than the shortest setting, because a very short ping interval drains the detectors noticeably faster. Devices in cold spots or outdoors, and door contacts that get opened all day, also go quicker than the brochure figure, so it's worth checking battery levels in the app every few months for the first year to see what your own house actually does.

A quick point for anyone still considering this: if a buried cable has been damaged, a basic continuity test can still pass while the pair resistance is too high for stable PoE. Check each pair and test the camera while powered and streaming, not just with a cable tester. If it drops out under load, treat the cable as failed rather than relying on a passive pair-sharing adapter.

Risco had a485 detetor and hkc do addressle

For a temporary prove-out with power isolated, short only what you can confirm is the alarm loop and leave the tamper pair alone so you do not mask a real tamper. Longer term, buzz each pair with a meter while you operate a replacement contact rather than permanently twisting unknown colours, then fit a proper reed/magnet and retest the whole tamper loop.

It's not what I am asking , I am asking what "bus" detectors did you think Eaton scantronics have ? Generally speaking most panels are using a bus these days for there keypads expanders etc But none of them use bus data pirs except 1 or 2

I cannot think of a single IAS system that allowed detection devices connected directly to a system bus/data line. There have been a few that connect via a single interface such as ID biscuits or Securicor's Genesis system which used MLI's. I am not saying there isn't such a thing but I just cannot recall anything that did this.

By bus detectors I mean PIRs built with the panel's own addressable bus interface, rather than a conventional relay-output PIR. They are enrolled as individual devices and report alarm and tamper over the bus, so the panel has to support that exact detector family. A quick way to identify one is that its manual specifies bus addressing and current draw, not just terminals for alarm and tamper contacts. If you add one, check the panel's permitted bus cable length and total current, then measure voltage at the furthest detector during a walk test, since a marginal supply can cause intermittent device faults.

What bus detectors?

Yes, the AUX Tamper terminals are what shows up as AUX 0 in the log. With a long global tamper chain, a short maintenance-window test of jumpering half the chain at a time should find the faulty leg faster than opening every detector.

For the Fanvil side you mainly need one dry-contact pair into the gate Start / open input: NO and COM on the i66, matching whatever Common you trace back into A60 terminal 20 as Nice said. Green sounding like the old Verso relay legs fits that job once you confirm continuity to that Common. Orange you already proved is the fob path, so leave that alone unless you are deliberately moving the fob input. Brown being unused by the gate when unplugged usually means it was only feeding the old intercom (status / door-open sense or a second relay), not something the A60 needs to run. If you want to be sure, buzz brown back to the A60 end before you cut it. Photocells stay on their own Common in terminal 20; do not share that with the intercom NO/COM.

It also seems the current intercom is not a Control4 branded intercom and is actually a 2N IP Verso (without camera) model

It's possible I only need the green pair that is connected to the relay terminals when connecting the Fanvil i66 The 2N IP Verso I/O Module (Part No. 9155034) expands compatible intercoms with two logical inputs and two relay outputs for sensor integration and external device control.

Hi James I am replacing the Control4 intercom with a Fanvil i66 The issue I am dealing with is understanding which of the 3 pairs in the intercom need to go into the new intercom

i dont understnd the question sorry, what you trying to achieve?