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  1. Today
  2. MrHappy
    no just exit engineering & it will show the the number of modules added / removed.... Sometimes using the magic word of Izzy-wizzy, let's get busy, helps ?
  3. ashs
    Thank you for the help. Do I need to power down the Galaxy and remove the battery first for it to recognise a new device has been added?
  4. Last week
  5. james.wilson
    1000m is best possible case with nothing in the way. Bricks pipes foil plasterboard insulation all massively reduce this figure. Only way is to test
  6. al-yeti
    Ok so expander as I said not extender repeater thing , maybe it's just wording we both using but same thing Will this work with the panel you have or want As mrH says is what I would probably do, or somewhere within range
  7. MrHappy
    i don't use it, the tat I buy normally has a plaggy radio expander, take down the pir nearest the garage & put the radio expander there, which is what I assume @al-yeti was suggesting ?
  8. Fire3D
    Urban Clap started following What is a reasonable time for an engineer to setup a Honeywell Galaxy?
  9. Mark Hennessy
    I was looking at the EXP-R30 but thinking that if this is wireless, what would the difference be between connecting this or my wireless accessories (detector, keypad etc)? The i-on40h suggests that it is good for wireless for 1,000 metres (line of sight) and I am wanting to communicate just over 30 metres (through two brick walls). My only wired means between the two locations is via ethernet hence why I was thinking about wireless/radio capability and want to ensure a stable and secure connection to have a zone for my garage. The extender gives better flexibility outputs at the remote location such as wired sounders and configurable outputs, but seems like both options are a possibility and wanted to check with other users thoughts and experience of this panel. Thanks.
  10. al-yeti
    I didn't think the radio devices would be able to do that, atleast not alone What extender were you thinking of?
  11. Mark Hennessy
    Thanks for the prompt response. For clarity; you cannot simply use radio devices from the house to the garage and a wireless extender is required to bridge the space (which communicates via radio to the main control panel)?
  12. james.wilson
    Yeah just get the unit only and it will clip in.
  13. jmeader43
    Second gate controller Thanks mate looks like I can just replace the keypad with the latest model
  14. MrHappy
    It's just a stand alone keypad, same thing for 20 years or more, The design changes, but all work the same
  15. jmeader43
    Second gate keypad
  16. jmeader43
    Some photos of a relay and FAAC
  17. jmeader43
    2 gates, main one on the left and the other on the right There are 2 antennas that receive fob inputs
  18. jmeader43
    Possible replacement using the newer model as this one appears obsolete https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/access-control-c-27/digital-keypads-c-27_29/videx-4000-series-codelock-module-4901-p-5756.html
  19. jmeader43
    Manual looks like this one https://www.videxuk.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/66250070-4800-4800M-EN-V1-5.pdf
  20. jmeader43 started following Videx keypad module replacement
  21. jmeader43
    I was wondering if it’s possible to replace a faulty Videx keypad rather than the whole intercom as just 2 of the buttons which are part of the code have worn down over time It’s a GSM model as the customer tells me it calls their mobile phone I’ve attached a photo for reference and any help greatly appreciated I can go there and remove the keypad if an exact model number is needed to look up a suitable replacement
  22. al-yeti started following Scantronic i-ON40h Configuration Advice
  23. al-yeti
    You need the expander but fitted close as possible to the garage and maybe another in the garage
  24. al-yeti started following Adding an additional Honeywell CP038 to Galaxy system and Scantronic i-ON40h Configuration Advice
  25. Mark Hennessy
    I am interested in the Scantronic i-on40h panel as a replacement for my existing wired security system. My house is currently protected via a hard wired and I plan to add more zones (wirelessly to avoid pulling cables in), but I am also wanting to protect my detached garage which is approximately 30 metres away from the house. The garage has a wired internet connect and there is also WiFi available. Can you please advise of the best and most secure way to add a new zone to this type of alarm (is an extender required)? Many thanks in advance
  26. al-yeti
    Yeah lol I forgot about that my bad
  27. james.wilson
    You also need to exit engineers for it to find the new keypad
  28. al-yeti
    To start with Swap one keypad with one of the others without changing the address, do it pulling off the plug rather than undoing the wiring Did the fault move with the keypad? Or does it start working?
  29. ashs
    It seems too much time has passed to make an edit so here it is again. Correction to the above: The new keypad address is set to '3'. The existing keypads are set to 0, 1 and 2. In menu 60, when I check the keypad comms, keypads 0,2 and 3 show up as 100%. The exisiting 0,1, and 2 keypads are all functioning correctly, however. Just the new '3' keypad is non-functional. Is there something that needs to be set to correctly recognise all keypads? The keypad that is now set to 1 was originally set to 3 and I changed it so that I could have the new keypad be '3' as it made more sense from a location point of view. It seems as if the Galaxy hasn't picked up the address change from 3 to 1 of the existing keypad and is not detecting the new keypad now that it is set to 3. Does that make sense?
  30. ashs
    Correction to the above: The new keypad address is set to '1' but is not showing up in the comms check. I have checked the address settings on the other keypads and they are 0.2. and 3.
  31. ashs
    I finally got around to adding the keypad. I'm getting all flashing asterisks on the display and the indicator LED is flashing. I have the address selector set to 3. I have checked and the other keypads are set to 0, 1, and 2. When I check in engineer mode it shows keypads 0,1,2 and 3 and all are showing 100% comms. Is there anything else I should set? Do I need to 'tell' the system that a keypad has been added? It's just connected in parallel with a short cable to an existing keypad on the other side of a wall. All of the other keypads are working fine still.
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