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Acusense itself is more about the analytics side than raw night picture, so swapping the badge alone will not automatically fix weak IR. What usually matters more is the newer sensor and how the IR LEDs are aimed for your scene. If night clarity is the main pain, look at the lux / IR distance figures and, if you can, trial one camera on the worst corner before you replace the set. ColorVu-style white light models are another route if you are happy with a bit of visible light at night.

One practical middle ground is keeping the main switch indoors and only putting a small outdoor-rated PoE injector or a tiny industrial 2/4 port switch near the cameras, with a single data uplink back. That way a weather failure takes out less kit. If the UniView unit still has to live in the outdoor box, check the PoE budget at the high end of the temp range too. A lot of plastic switches brown out or drop ports when they cook in a sealed enclosure in summer sun.

At 80m a passive splitter is often the first thing to give up, even if it looked fine for months. Heat, a camera that started drawing a bit more after a firmware bump, or just a tired cheap splitter can tip it over. Putting a locally powered PoE switch at that far end is the right move. Two practical checks when you fit it: 1. Confirm the uplink port from the house is data-only (PoE off on that port if the switch lets you), so you are not trying to power the far switch from the same long run you already know is marginal. 2. After the change, measure DC voltage at each camera under load. If either sits well under ~48V (or whatever your cameras expect on PoE), the cable or a joint is still eating the budget even with the new switch. If voltage looks healthy and a camera still drops, swap that short patch lead next before blaming the switch.

Chrome ActiveX/plugin path is basically dead on Win11. Vendor desktop client (iVMS-4200 / Hik-Connect for PC) is the reliable route. Quick plugin-free check: pull the camera/NVR RTSP URL into VLC and confirm the stream before chasing browser plugins.

Because the doorbell does not expose ONVIF, I would choose an NVR that allows a generic RTSP camera to be added manually, rather than relying on auto-discovery. Test the main and substream credentials in VLC first, then add the working stream on a spare IP channel. The call and ring features can stay in the doorbell app.

Good to hear the installation has worked out well. One useful check after the first few weeks is to review each camera at night as well as in daylight, especially for IR glare, reflections and areas that become blind when lighting changes. That is often where a small angle adjustment makes the biggest difference.

After a long outage the panel can sit in a tamper state that needs the engineer/installer code rather than the day-to-day user code to clear. If a fresh battery does not help and the user code still fails, try the engineer code if you have it, and check the keypad is not in lockout from too many wrong tries.

Worth checking Live View at the same moment the neighbours are on the drive. If Live View still has clear audio but the recorded clip does not, that points more to a Ring recording/setting quirk than jamming. If Live View drops audio too, and it lines up with a particular car being present, try a quick test with that car's key fob nearby while someone else walks the drive. A lot of keyless systems chatter on 2.4GHz and can knock a weak Ring link just enough to drop the audio track while video still makes it.

Hello

hi there

Hi Jeremy and welcome

Hi all — Jeremy here. I spend a lot of time on DIY IP cameras and PC-based recording (RTSP/ONVIF, storage, remote view without opening ports to the internet). Happy to hang around the DIY and CCTV boards and help where I can. Looking forward to learning from the folks here.

Panel needs a full factory default for any major firmware upgrade, I personally recommend all. Copy programming, flash, default, let Wintex convert from V3 to V6 by changing the panel version, put the programming back.

LS1 is the UK firmware The other month I asked for a little molex lead for a psu2000, they fcuk' me about so I just made my own. I've only used there stuff for 30 years. I now hate them more than the HSBC, who briefly debanked me If I had an loan or an overdraft they'd probably finished us off. Again used for 30 years or thereabouts.

I now see it's part of the download I got from texe.com yesterday thanks, I was worried it would corrupt the panel running V3 to V6 but it appears it will not Premier-Elite-V6_06_02-Firmware.exe

I have the flasher interface and the usb-com cable and did have the flasher software but I can't find it and it's not available from the Texecom website when I sign in with my installer account

Intermediate binary? Smartcom was from V4.x, done correctly you should be able to go straight to V6. Flasher includes the binaries now, they're not usually shipped separate although possible.

Do you have the flash tool PCB + the usb lead ?

I have an Elite 48 running legacy V3.02 firmware that I am upgrading for SmartCom support. My local Wintex structure does not contain the old flashing tools. Can anyone pPlease provide a direct download link or file transfer for the legacy standalone Premier Elite Flasher application along with the V5 intermediate firmware binary? I can request it tomorrow from Texecom but today is my day off and I was hoping to get it done if possible!

why do you want to be on 7.6 ?

Good to know