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Sorry did not bother trying to reset 5E...just changed it for x type and all fine again. Will change 3E another day as I need 12 core to wire Test contact as using 8 cores already. 5E battery seemed fine too....so something else upset the 5E.

Good point about relay. I guess I can bring each test wire back to loft JB and just leave them on oc terminal rail. Log on in Engineer mode to view event log, test leads (reading voltage maybe?) on the relay output connected to terminal rail then test each at a time by linking it to 0V for minimum of 60 seconds with a wire..... I wonder if the relay event is logged ....could use this to see results. Thanks again.

It does say that in the manual. I can't see how it functions the same, especially when one does a functional test of the relay output and the other doesn't.... Makes no difference for the last post.

One last thing. I mentioned earlier... I understand new boxes will stay in "hold off" mode until I connect +12v supply to the boxes, so I can make all connections in the new boxes, jumpers set to SCB and LC on then connect battery jumper and close boxes and finally connect +12V supply in control panel to the boxes. I read this is incorrect. Procedure should be... I understand new boxes will stay in "hold off" mode until I connect +12v supply to the boxes, so I can make all connections in the new boxes, connect Battery Jumper first so unit will enter Hold Off mode, then set to SCB and LC on and close boxes and finally connect +12V supply in control panel to the boxes.

Looking at my notes from 13 years ago I have my boxes wired as this..... But I am not using Aux/Fault to monitor tamper but am doing this.... and I did not use an output to carry out Test I guess because manual cites auto self test every 24 hours. The test input can be used to invoke a remote sounder test, this performs the same functions as the self test which is carried out once every 24 hours. To invoke the test the input must be placed at 0V for a minimum of 60s, during this time the Fault relay will open to signal the test is in progress. On completion of a successful test the Fault relay will close, if the test fails the relay will stay open. I recall 13 years ago it took me quite a few days to digest manuals, install and program the kit as it is quite complicated and hence taken me some time to refresh what I'd done. So today up the ladders I go to change the bell boxes to have some confidence in their reliability ....bit wobbly these days as an OAP approaching 70 so will take it easy. Thanks for the help.

ok - Thanks - will look into this.....I thought they were only for a stand alone communicator. I take it an unactivated output is floating or 12v and pulls to 0V when activated and the 100mA exceeds the requirement to activate the Test on the bell box?

? 8 outputs on the side of pcb 2 output on the bottom of the pcb

they'll all talk with a funny accenta in the north of england....

Looked at how to use Test input to bell boxes....but I read 24-W panel only has one programmable output and I'm already using this to trigger an external GSM that rings people when the alarm is triggered. So I guess I cannot do this. Will try what you suggested to see if it clears bell 5E RHS flashing LED only. "Try triggering the strobe and see if they activate, then just the bell trigger and see if it clears hold-off."

I dunno, but I do feel like greeting you one day with an accenta

I'd assume he's ships crew & probably English is a 2nd language ?

Assume like any panel he's pressing reset silence and as he isn't a fire engineer he doesn't know how to fault find what the problem is

id say a mistake.

In the diagram and table in the first post, we are instructed to connect the bellbox tamper to the panel ground supply, and the bellbox ground supply to the panel tamper return. I am asking if this is deliberate, or a printing mistake.

` You have to silence the alarm to stop it sounding then press reset (note the buttons don't work until the key is turned or the code entered) All the lights on the panel light upto & it should be silent & fault free.... If if goes straight back into alarm silence the alarm & go & check the device If the worse comes to the worse remove you can disable devices from the panel, this will shown a disablement fault on all panels Powering down addressable alarms is not a good idea, your much more likely to end up with more issues. than you started Is this a ship ?

Sorry i dont understand the question?

ok - I will try what you suggest to see if the fault will clear. The 5E box right led only flashing has just started in this last week or so. Before that for 13 years its been like the Premier Elite Odyssey 3 with right and left leds alternate flashing. Alarm worked as expected and no fault or false alarms. I've not tried to arm alarm since 5e showed flashing right led only. But will look into it tomorrow as busy today. Thanks again.

Using the Aux input the panel knows to expect the test if it's programmed at a fault and not a tamper, with a zone you'll have to program that zone attribute. I'd do what I suggested in a previous post before taking anything apart to see if the fault will clear. I'm still sus it's not wired correctly somehow. You should be able to disable them completely from the panel via the engineer hold off, yes.

Thanks for the confirm, that's what I concluded. The question is whether the installation instructions meant to swap the connections as labelled (perhaps there is a reason known to the industry for that) or if it is a mistake in the documentation.

Don't know the panel bit of you create another alarm on a different head / cp does it clear then?

A question if I may on removing bell box. I have planned to invoke "hold off" mode, then open the boxes, then come back to control panel and pull the +12V supply to the bell boxes, then back to bell boxes and pull battery jumper, then remove boxes. Or can I invoke "hold off" mode, check right LEDs are flashing to be sure of hold off mode, then at control panel pull the +12V supply to the bell boxes, then open boxes and pull battery jumper, then remove boxes. I understand new boxes will stay in "hold off" mode until I connect +12v supply to the boxes, so I can make all connections in the new boxes, jumpers set to SCB and LC on then connect battery jumper and close boxes and finally connect +12V supply in control panel to the boxes. Then I can test strobe and bell and alarm to see all is working ok. Sixwheeledbeast posted: "Using the test wire requires wiring as per Texecom recommendations otherwise you'll get faults on every test signal. The panel has to be programmed to expect the test is happening if you use Zones instead of fault input." I will look into the bell test wire method as you have kindly mentioned....I'll have to google this as I cannot recall reading any documentation on it. Thanks again for the advice.

When I press the silence alarm, the sound signal disappears, but not the alarm itself. Pressing reset doesn't change anything; the alarms remain active.

I do apologize for the mistake I made in my previous post. The keypad zone 1 is not connected to MSW1 and MSW2 but is connected to the bell box fault relay contacts which are connected in series. This posting error was made in haste whilst turning on the TV to watch Strictly and being called to come to the table for dinner.

enable controls - (code of key) press silence alarm press reset ?

Hello everyone, I’m working with two Kentec Syncro ASM analogue addressable marine fire panels that are networked together. I’ve run into a problem with a stuck fire alarm on one panel and network/battery faults on both panels after a power/battery sequence. Here is the full situation: --- Chronology 1. A detector activated a fire alarm. The detector later returned to normal, but the fire alarm stayed latched on Panel A, while Panel B showed no fire. 2. Pressing RESET on both panels did nothing — the fire event remained stuck on Panel A. 3. To try clearing the alarm, the following steps were taken: Batteries on Panel A were disconnected while AC power was still present. Then AC power was switched off for both panels. AC power was restored. Afterwards, the batteries were reconnected to Panel A. 4. After this sequence: Panel A still shows the same stuck fire alarm even though the detector is normal. Panel B now shows Battery Missing, even though its batteries are physically connected. Both panels show General Fault and Power Fault. RESET still has no effect. No configuration changes were made. No engineer-level tools (Loop Explorer) were used. This is purely the result of the power/battery sequence. --- What I need help with 1. What is the correct and safe recovery procedure to: clear a stuck fire event on one Syncro ASM panel, and re-synchronize the network between two panels after a mixed battery/AC power interruption? 2. Is the “Battery Missing” on Panel B likely caused by an actual power issue, or can it be triggered by a network desync between two ASM panels? 3. Are there steps that can be performed without engineer-level access, using only: front panel controls, power cycling, battery reconnection — to restore both panels to normal? 4. If anyone has experience with marine Syncro ASM units, please let me know if this behaviour is typical when one panel loses battery power while the other remains active. --- I can provide photos I can post photos of: both LCD screens, all LEDs, network card LEDs, battery compartments, exact fault messages. Just let me know what would be most helpful. --- Thanks in advance for any advice. This system is currently not clearing the fire alarm and both panels are showing faults, so any guidance on a proper recovery sequence would be greatly appreciated.