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For the Fanvil side you mainly need one dry-contact pair into the gate Start / open input: NO and COM on the i66, matching whatever Common you trace back into A60 terminal 20 as Nice said. Green sounding like the old Verso relay legs fits that job once you confirm continuity to that Common. Orange you already proved is the fob path, so leave that alone unless you are deliberately moving the fob input. Brown being unused by the gate when unplugged usually means it was only feeding the old intercom (status / door-open sense or a second relay), not something the A60 needs to run. If you want to be sure, buzz brown back to the A60 end before you cut it. Photocells stay on their own Common in terminal 20; do not share that with the intercom NO/COM.

It also seems the current intercom is not a Control4 branded intercom and is actually a 2N IP Verso (without camera) model

It's possible I only need the green pair that is connected to the relay terminals when connecting the Fanvil i66 The 2N IP Verso I/O Module (Part No. 9155034) expands compatible intercoms with two logical inputs and two relay outputs for sensor integration and external device control.

Hi James I am replacing the Control4 intercom with a Fanvil i66 The issue I am dealing with is understanding which of the 3 pairs in the intercom need to go into the new intercom

i dont understnd the question sorry, what you trying to achieve?

I have tested the old control4 intercom and the orange pair are the fob. Unsure what the brown pair are as the gate works when that connector block is unplugged

Message from Nice tech support goes against my green pair theory Hi James, From your picture, none of the greens are from the Common on the A60 control unit, if you reference the diagram below I sent you, you have multiple commons in terminal 20, I would assume for the photocells and the intercom unit. (you will need to verify) So from the picture, green is for a NO of your choice and programming of the Fanvil, and you will have to cable trace which common you have free in terminal 20 of the A60 that lead back to the intercom unit to be wired into the relevant Common.

I am expecting the green pair which was connected to the relay terminals to be connecting into the NO1 and COM1

On the i-ON side, that bus daisy chain is mainly for keypads, expanders and other addressable devices. Ordinary PIRs still go on the zone wiring unless you specifically bought bus detectors that match the panel. Same idea as the O----O----O layout already mentioned, just worth knowing PIRs are not automatically on that bus.

Can you help me with the install of a Fanvil i66 please. I have removed a Control4 PoE intercom and there is 3 pairs out of 4 connected to it O/OW G/GW BR/BW The blue pair at the intercom end was not in use There is a pair of photocells and a remote fob

If the PIR LED is dead as well, that points more at the AUX rail itself than just a tired battery. With the panel powered, measure DC right across the AUX + and 0V terminals, then again with the Texecom 1E hold connected. Those sounders sit on the hold permanently, so a weak PSU or a high-resistance joint can sag under load even when an open-circuit battery still reads 12.6V. Also worth double-checking the 1E wiring against the old bell box. Hold and trigger polarity swapped is pretty common after a sounder swap and can leave AUX looking unhappy.

Acusense itself is more about the analytics side than raw night picture, so swapping the badge alone will not automatically fix weak IR. What usually matters more is the newer sensor and how the IR LEDs are aimed for your scene. If night clarity is the main pain, look at the lux / IR distance figures and, if you can, trial one camera on the worst corner before you replace the set. ColorVu-style white light models are another route if you are happy with a bit of visible light at night.

One practical middle ground is keeping the main switch indoors and only putting a small outdoor-rated PoE injector or a tiny industrial 2/4 port switch near the cameras, with a single data uplink back. That way a weather failure takes out less kit. If the UniView unit still has to live in the outdoor box, check the PoE budget at the high end of the temp range too. A lot of plastic switches brown out or drop ports when they cook in a sealed enclosure in summer sun.

At 80m a passive splitter is often the first thing to give up, even if it looked fine for months. Heat, a camera that started drawing a bit more after a firmware bump, or just a tired cheap splitter can tip it over. Putting a locally powered PoE switch at that far end is the right move. Two practical checks when you fit it: 1. Confirm the uplink port from the house is data-only (PoE off on that port if the switch lets you), so you are not trying to power the far switch from the same long run you already know is marginal. 2. After the change, measure DC voltage at each camera under load. If either sits well under ~48V (or whatever your cameras expect on PoE), the cable or a joint is still eating the budget even with the new switch. If voltage looks healthy and a camera still drops, swap that short patch lead next before blaming the switch.

Chrome ActiveX/plugin path is basically dead on Win11. Vendor desktop client (iVMS-4200 / Hik-Connect for PC) is the reliable route. Quick plugin-free check: pull the camera/NVR RTSP URL into VLC and confirm the stream before chasing browser plugins.

Because the doorbell does not expose ONVIF, I would choose an NVR that allows a generic RTSP camera to be added manually, rather than relying on auto-discovery. Test the main and substream credentials in VLC first, then add the working stream on a spare IP channel. The call and ring features can stay in the doorbell app.

Good to hear the installation has worked out well. One useful check after the first few weeks is to review each camera at night as well as in daylight, especially for IR glare, reflections and areas that become blind when lighting changes. That is often where a small angle adjustment makes the biggest difference.

After a long outage the panel can sit in a tamper state that needs the engineer/installer code rather than the day-to-day user code to clear. If a fresh battery does not help and the user code still fails, try the engineer code if you have it, and check the keypad is not in lockout from too many wrong tries.

Worth checking Live View at the same moment the neighbours are on the drive. If Live View still has clear audio but the recorded clip does not, that points more to a Ring recording/setting quirk than jamming. If Live View drops audio too, and it lines up with a particular car being present, try a quick test with that car's key fob nearby while someone else walks the drive. A lot of keyless systems chatter on 2.4GHz and can knock a weak Ring link just enough to drop the audio track while video still makes it.

Hello

hi there

Hi Jeremy and welcome

Hi all — Jeremy here. I spend a lot of time on DIY IP cameras and PC-based recording (RTSP/ONVIF, storage, remote view without opening ports to the internet). Happy to hang around the DIY and CCTV boards and help where I can. Looking forward to learning from the folks here.

Panel needs a full factory default for any major firmware upgrade, I personally recommend all. Copy programming, flash, default, let Wintex convert from V3 to V6 by changing the panel version, put the programming back.

LS1 is the UK firmware The other month I asked for a little molex lead for a psu2000, they fcuk' me about so I just made my own. I've only used there stuff for 30 years. I now hate them more than the HSBC, who briefly debanked me If I had an loan or an overdraft they'd probably finished us off. Again used for 30 years or thereabouts.