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Yes but it still doesn't explain your last comment lol

I read it a few times , don't make sense to me , even asked ai to explain it to me..... Cos you alarm men have your own language lol

Maybe read the post again....

Capture from Texecom are cheap TAT but you still recommend it?

Anything but the Capture from Texecom are cheap tat IMO. Optex, Texe Capture or Bosch for me, has to have sealed optics.

I’m also looking at the Texecom Veritas Reflex PIR, any good? Prefer the replacement PIR to be similar in size & appearance of the original one Not so keen on the Optex as it’s longer, green light & very modern looking The Honeywell & Texecom is the closest match I can find.

Agreed you would for an optex or hkc sensor

Overall they are not good pirs imo

Is the Honeywell IS312B PIR a good choice for replacement? The alarm panel is an ADE Optima Compact. Any recommendations on PIR that is suitable?

Probably is the detector, however, Id still be checking what voltage you have at the detector, if the battery was not replaced before it failed it could have damaged the charging circuit. Especially if the panel is as old as the detector.

https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/intruder-alarm-equipment-c-36/movement-detectors-c-36_116/all-c-36_116_37/optex-flipx-standard-indoor-pir-sensor-with-rotatable-lens-p-6130.html

Those PIR are no good tho

The battery was changed aprox 6 months ago, don’t think it’s the battery as it’s relatively new. The PIR is quite old, alarm system installed originally by house builders so my gut feeling it’s most likely the PIR is faulty I’ll replace the PIR & if this doesn’t solve the issue, I’ll get a tradesman to service/repair the alarm system.

What voltage have you got on the 12v aux? When was the last time it was serviced? when was the battery last changed. If the battery is pulling the voltage down this could be causing not enough voltage reaching the detector which could be your problem

Thanks

No

I’m looking at the Honeywell IS312B as a replacement for the old failed PIR detector (similar size, good price & reviews) The old PIR has 6 wires connected to the terminals: T, T, N, C, -, + The Honeywell IS312B terminal connectors: T2, T1, NC, N, V-, V+ I presume it also makes no difference on the Honeywell IS312B, how the T2, T1 (vice versa) & NC, N (vice versa) when wiring it up?

No makes no difference. Sounds like a failed detector

PIR light on the house alarm stays on permanently on one of the zone (zone 2 - lounge) When trying to set the alarm, the zone 2 - lounge light stays solid & keeps bleeping continuously on the alarm panel, just won’t set? I’ve to omit the zone 2 - lounge from the alarm panel to get the rest of the zones working & able to set the alarm? I’ve also opened the alarm panel up, disconnected the zone 2 wires (blue & yellow) to see if the rest of the alarm zones works without having to omit zone 2, It didn’t work so Is there a specific way of doing this? Also forgotten which way the blue & yellow wires goes back, does it make any difference if the blue on the left, yellow on the right or vice versa when connecting it back to the zone 2 terminal blocks on the alarm panel? I’ve also replaced the alarm panel old battery with a brand new one so maybe replacing the PIR should solve the issue?

Premiers have separate programmable volumes for chime and advisory tones

Or how how simply muffling the speaker with some foam as they just suggested ?

I have 2 of these run in series and the customer is saying they are too loud They are connected to a Texecom Premier Elite 24 and being used with the Chime facility Is it possible to dial down the volume by wiring in something that’s adjustable so they can fiddle with it themselves and then I don’t have to keep adjusting it myself The product is this one: https://connectec.uk/security/intruder-alarms/wired-alarm-systems/wired-alarm-sounders-and-bells/8-ohm-alarm-extension-speaker-with-tamper

Pyronic generally dont come with any instruction no more especially the seperate devices