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I think you are right, I vaguely remember seeing one in the 90's, I think it used DTMF to talk to the panel I doubt the 8136 is the same protocol

I'm certain someone did a emulated 9100 keypad ?

Yep, this is purely for educational/fun purposes, and it is absolutely my fallback to get a fibreglass pen, clean the via's and then electronically click the keys, however, first I'm wondering if there are any people on this forum who may have worked at this level at or around Scantronic?

Unless you've found someone online that has RE'd the protocol you'll have to continue to work on this. I have heard of people connecting onto a working keypad membrane grid with a SBC and controlling keypresses via software in this way. Ultimately, people in the trade wouldn't be spending time doing this and would be upgrading for something modern and more fit for purpose. Fine to play about as a DIY project but modifying stuff in this way wouldn't conform to the standards we are required to install to.

A bit of a long reach this one, but I'm trying to 'emulate' a keypad for a Scantronic 8136 panel. I've got as far as identifying it using a 150bit protocol of what seems to be long and short pulses on the signal wire done through releasing the signal wire from ground and letting the panel pull it back up to +14v for a period of time 150 times synchronised by a clock. I'm hoping to build on this so that I can control my antique alarm system from my phone! Anyone have any further information on how this works, as my attempts to play back the pulses (I think) I've copied are ignored by the panel, so I'm missing something!

I dunno, I see switches blow ports just because an electrician flicks power on off a few times Put in different model and no problem, I wonder if it's are voltage problem aswell , but mostly they were tplink Dlink seemed to survive and so do many cheap Chinese versions , which ususally die completely when they do

Hi all, Now that we're heading into the stormy summer season, I'm reviewing our standard deployment specs for outdoor edge devices—specifically long-run IP cameras and gate controllers on dedicated metal poles. In the past, we've used standard inline PoE surge protectors, but we still see occasional port blowouts on the switch side after heavy lightning storms nearby, even when the pole itself is properly grounded. I’m curious about your real-world setups: Do you automatically budget for surge suppression at both ends (at the device and before entering the patch panel)? Are there specific brands you've found to actually survive a near-miss, or do you treat them as sacrificial items that you replace annually? Just trying to cut down on warranty truck rolls this summer. Would love to hear what's working for you guys in the field.

Yes, I have ticked the Coliseum Picture Theatre of my list...

We were in Cleethorpes last weekend, I don't mind it for a couple of hours.

TSI is almost as cool as Cleethorpes...

You do realise we all have nothing better to do?.....

You probably posted as a guest? I havnt seen the post to enable it?

Hi everyone! I'm new here! I'm just an ordinary bloke with a little bit of electrical / electronics knowledge. I wanted to ask a couple of questions about replacing the battery inside a Securit 800L+ Control Panel, so I posted to the "DIY Installers" section about a week ago. When I pressed the "Submit Topic" button, however, a message appeared that said something like "Your new topic will be verified before appearing in the forum." (I don't remember the exact wording, but it was something like that.) Is there something else that I am supposed to do in order for my post to appear? Thank you for your help!

This is more of an ad then a question kind of post

did you know this post was from 2016?

I can remember the Crompton Parkinson battery factory on the banks of the Tyne at South Shields, late 80's

If it hasnt been serviced in a while its probably battery, replacing the battery may fix it. However, a good battery would have lasted 8 hours, so your battery is pretty poor, and if your battery has been that bad for a while it would have degraded the charging circuit, which means that the charging circuit wont charge your new battery.

I'd assume you have a fault in place check if you do. Also when was it last serviced

Electricity was off for 55 mins after it was turned on the alarm panel is showing tamper but it won't accept my code

Now for cherry coment- I reckon the bloke who fitted it will dead..

Yeah, it's quite old. I didn't think the bell box design dated back that early. Plus it's plastic coated so I thought maby mid to late 70s

1972 on the battery!

Bought this recently. It's configured as a tenement alarm. So the keyswitch on the side would arm and disarm the bell box. Very very old.

I don't like dark mode either , effects my sun tan

Dont like dark mode but the buttons at the bottom are handy