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Pretty standard yep.

I could use something like this maybe, depending on dimensions. The existing battery has a capacity of 170 mAh, trickle charged at 14 mA. https://www.amazon.co.uk/6V-330mAH-Ni-MH-Battery-Replacement/dp/B09C2FVP9L

just snip them individually that way you will know what colour goes where when you put it back/replace it. No need to down power completely just be aware the alarm will tamper

So I'm going to take my external sounder down off the wall to diagnose what's wrong with it. Maybe the piezo element is failing as james.wilson suggested in another post. Are the settings stored indefinitely in non-volatile memory when I remove mains and battery power? I'm going to have to disconnect wires from the sounder, so I don't want the ends shorting out or have to put tape or whatever over them when I disconnect them. I suppose I could stick them one by one into a terminal block to keep them apart.

It puts more load on the psu it pulls more current than the psu is designed to provide, and eventually burns out the charging circuit

Im glad you didnt call it tape of colour

How does that happen? If the battery fails and vents? I think that happened with my old panel because the terminals corroded as though they got sprayed with something. Or is it due to the battery pulling too much current during the float charge and ageing the charge circuitry, while it should only be taking a trickle.

Brown tape yes

You could maybe fit a morticed shear mag, or a shoot bolt. But I would probably go with Steves idea and fit an external mag on the outside and use star screws or anti tamper screw heads to prevent someone unscrewing it or a architectural mag https://www.cdvi.co.uk/products/categories/magnetic-architectural-handles/

Assumed you would be OK with that and sticky tape

Found the instruction leaflet. It's a 6V, 170 mAh, NiMh. Are they standard, off the shelf battery packs or special HKC ones? Also does the sounder battery power the sounder, with the cable intact and the sounder getting power, or is it powered by the panel? I'm trying to establish whether a bad battery in the sounder is causing low voltage or pulling down its charging voltage. I'll put a meter on it to see what the story is.

Oh in that case it's just a few quid dude for the internal backup battery Thing is in your first post you have a link for RF battery pack hence I thought it's RF sabb But the RF sabb can also run off the panel on 12v but the signalling is via the RF Wired bell, then you can get any bell as a replacement if you had to

Are they rechargeable C123s? This is a wired sounder. I'm going to open the sounder to see what the story is. My old sounder failed due to corrosion, but that was because it had a high voltage strobe and voltage tracked across the PCB due to the varnish breaking down and moisture presumably. A new sounder is €47 + VAT. Battery he says is €38 + VAT.

Although wholesaler is talking **** about the battery pack Just replace the cr123 see if it helps you don't need the whole new pack open it 6xbatts Maybe the sounder itself is weather damaged? The sounder yes is expensive ish

The sounder on my alarm sounds "scratchy" and the volume is increasing and decreasing a bit as though there's a loose connection. Or maybe a failing battery is the problem? Is this the battery that goes into these sounders? My electrical wholesaler says that the battery is nearly as expensive as a new sounder, so maybe it's better to buy a new one if e.g. corrosion on the PCB board is what's causing the sound problem. https://www.hkcsecurity.com/ie/en/products/auxiliary-equipment-wireless/extended-6v-battery-pack-rf-sabb

Insecure side ? So how will it be protected?

Insecure side, double sided 3m, next!

No probably a failing piezo. Not replacing your main battery will lead to control panel failure

Mostly wired, but two wireless sensors. Can an ageing battery generate false alarms? Also the sound from my external sounder sounds "scratchy", like there a bad connection. Does that sounder run off the onboard battery and is the variable sound quality and volume likely a symptom of a failing battery?

How would you put a maglock here ?as standard lock keeps failing as it's being forced open over time

did you look in this box?

Not found it....

Hi bit of a strange setup. Doing a site where they're upgrading half a building. Installed a new advanced mxpro5 (hochiki protocol). Existing was an old kentec syncro. Client wants old panel to send fire and fault signal to new panel Can someone give me a step by step guide wiring this and programming advanced panel config

Thank you, this is most helpful.........

System with linear transformers normally have DC-DC voltage regulation after rectification, AC voltages wouldn't matter unless under the the required DC voltage. 14V is still high. There are plenty of other system check engineers would do on a service over just voltage. Charging current you would check amperage in series with a good battery. Before this test I would discharge the battery by measuring the system current in alarm and standby.