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You could maybe fit a morticed shear mag, or a shoot bolt. But I would probably go with Steves idea and fit an external mag on the outside and use star screws or anti tamper screw heads to prevent someone unscrewing it or a architectural mag https://www.cdvi.co.uk/products/categories/magnetic-architectural-handles/

Assumed you would be OK with that and sticky tape

Found the instruction leaflet. It's a 6V, 170 mAh, NiMh. Are they standard, off the shelf battery packs or special HKC ones? Also does the sounder battery power the sounder, with the cable intact and the sounder getting power, or is it powered by the panel? I'm trying to establish whether a bad battery in the sounder is causing low voltage or pulling down its charging voltage. I'll put a meter on it to see what the story is.

Oh in that case it's just a few quid dude for the internal backup battery Thing is in your first post you have a link for RF battery pack hence I thought it's RF sabb But the RF sabb can also run off the panel on 12v but the signalling is via the RF Wired bell, then you can get any bell as a replacement if you had to

Are they rechargeable C123s? This is a wired sounder. I'm going to open the sounder to see what the story is. My old sounder failed due to corrosion, but that was because it had a high voltage strobe and voltage tracked across the PCB due to the varnish breaking down and moisture presumably. A new sounder is €47 + VAT. Battery he says is €38 + VAT.

Although wholesaler is talking **** about the battery pack Just replace the cr123 see if it helps you don't need the whole new pack open it 6xbatts Maybe the sounder itself is weather damaged? The sounder yes is expensive ish

The sounder on my alarm sounds "scratchy" and the volume is increasing and decreasing a bit as though there's a loose connection. Or maybe a failing battery is the problem? Is this the battery that goes into these sounders? My electrical wholesaler says that the battery is nearly as expensive as a new sounder, so maybe it's better to buy a new one if e.g. corrosion on the PCB board is what's causing the sound problem. https://www.hkcsecurity.com/ie/en/products/auxiliary-equipment-wireless/extended-6v-battery-pack-rf-sabb

Insecure side ? So how will it be protected?

Insecure side, double sided 3m, next!

No probably a failing piezo. Not replacing your main battery will lead to control panel failure

Mostly wired, but two wireless sensors. Can an ageing battery generate false alarms? Also the sound from my external sounder sounds "scratchy", like there a bad connection. Does that sounder run off the onboard battery and is the variable sound quality and volume likely a symptom of a failing battery?

How would you put a maglock here ?as standard lock keeps failing as it's being forced open over time

did you look in this box?

Not found it....

Hi bit of a strange setup. Doing a site where they're upgrading half a building. Installed a new advanced mxpro5 (hochiki protocol). Existing was an old kentec syncro. Client wants old panel to send fire and fault signal to new panel Can someone give me a step by step guide wiring this and programming advanced panel config

Thank you, this is most helpful.........

System with linear transformers normally have DC-DC voltage regulation after rectification, AC voltages wouldn't matter unless under the the required DC voltage. 14V is still high. There are plenty of other system check engineers would do on a service over just voltage. Charging current you would check amperage in series with a good battery. Before this test I would discharge the battery by measuring the system current in alarm and standby.

its was probably higher when it was 1st fitted, as the electric board have brought down nominal voltages its reduced !

Thank you..... As you've mentioned aux voltage, I'd like to provide a little more information. There is a block of six terminals grouped together on the circuit board all related to power, two for the connection from the transformer, they measure 18.34 VAC, two for the battery connections, they measure 14.27 VDC and finally two for the PIR's etc, they measure 13.58 VDC Hope the above are more helpful regarding the working condition of the power supply. (If this changes nothing, no bother, at least you now have the full picture to work with) Regards.

Aux voltage should be around 13.6Vdc. 14 or more is too high it's likely the voltage regulator is failing. They sometimes have adjustment controls to set voltage lower on the 317 but even so I imagine it's tired and can't push enough amperage to fully charge a battery after a power cut. Most ADE stuff this age is like this and should be considered for upgrade. Modern stuff uses switch mode power supplies and while more complex use a lot less energy over there life.

Good afternoon. My comment stating 14.6V at the panel battery connections was intended as for information for the more knowledgeable on here to perhaps tell me one way or the other if the panel is working correctly, and not in any way that, in my opinion, this area of the panel was ok. (Hence the reason I'm in the DIY installers forum !) From your reply I would assume that the PSU is actually not working correctly, if this is so I'd appreciate it if you could perhaps elaborate a little so that I could better understand this issue and therefore learn something. I'm always grateful to anyone whom is more knowledgeable about these things than me that takes the time to reply in an effort to help / assist. Regards, Dave Walton.

Same, but my app simple lists user codes 000 and 001 (Engineer and Master). Not really any need for anything else. Unless you want to play with menu text for a laugh.

Oh so the PSU is cooked then...

Price of a panel and keypad DIY your mad keeping this going

I have removed the old battery and plan to replace it once I've finished doing the few little alterations I hope to make. Checked the voltage at the panel outputs for the battery and was getting 14.6 V. Regards.