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There are two problems I think. When the panel is powered down and the battery disconnected, the sounder is barely audible, suggesting the battery is at fault. With everything powered up, the sounder volume randomly increases and decreases and has a "scratchy" sound, like when the volume control on a radio is bad. So like you suggested previously, possibly the piezo element at fault too. I'm going to open it up today.

Electrical part only right.....

your document appears to have a requirement for the installation work to be undertaken by an electrical contractor with nic eic or similar ?

Thanks for the reply. I'm guessing I’m just misinterpreting the attached? Aslong as the company who’s contracted to install the job is Bafe registered that covers it? BAFE-SP203-1-Version-8-0-Guidance-Note-Sub-Contractors.pdf

You don't need to be registered anywhere for anything if the company who is hiring you is registered, your representing them not yourself But would be handy if you have skilz lol

Evening All I have decided to go subbying after 15 years within the industry, and looking for some guidance in regards to installing fire alarms. If you are sub contracting to a company that are Bafe registered, does the sub contractor have to be Bafe registered in order to install?

Trim everything back and reconnect see what happens

Thank you, that's a very good bit of advice. Very logical and obvious when pointed out. Appreciate it

It has to connect to the cloud first though. When its first powered up it doesnt know what day of the week it is let alone the right time. A bit like you when your alarm clock goes off on a Thursday morning after youve been down the pub the night before for pool night

Red light= normally a fuse blown, or no battery connected. Disconnect everything at the PSU if it still shows red then you know its not any of the wiring causing the PSU issue. Check the backup battery. Im guessing from the state of thos connections its not been under a service agreement so the battery is probably over 5 years old and may be pulling the psu down

The potting looks like there is a crack round that varistor looking component, maybe water has got in... I'd still be investigating the Red "fault" light on the supply.

Keypad is mounted on brick face, whoever originally installed it has placed it over the mortor joints so water has been getting in through this joint. There is only 1 x 1amp glass fuse in the psu which is fine, I have removed the fuse also and done a test of it. As said, the keypad and maglock is now getting power and working as it should. It's just the red error light is now showing on the psu and is worrying me incase it's a fire hazzard. I have powered everything off for now. I have added a photo of back of keypad

Fuse has blown on the PSU? The back of the keypad is potted from what I remember so you maybe lucky and cleaning it up will work with a new fuse?

Probably need a new keypad , you could try and clean it up a little bit I don't think it will help, although surprised it's had that much water behind it, I have installed and they still working for years Is it on a slanted feather edge mounted or something?

Hi all I am not a security engineer just a home owner. I have a tool shed with a vanderbilt Act5e keypad controlling a maglock on the door. This is powered by an elmdene psu. It also has a green break glass and push to exit button. The power had stopped going to maglock and upon various checks with a multimeter the psu, break glass and push to exit switch was OK. I then removed keypad and water had made its way into back of unit and corroded the 12v and 0 terminals and the common wire had snapped. I have replaced the common wire into the 12v terminal and after connecting all back up, the red fault light is showing on the psu, however the maglock is now powered and working. I am thinking it might be recognising a short circuit due to the corrosion. Will cleaning the terminals correct this or will a new keypad be required or any other issues you think it may be. The psu also has a standby battery showing correct voltage. I am not an engineer, I really cannot afford an expensive fix as it's only a shed. I would like to try all things possible to me before removing. Thanks for any help or advice.

Of it's new firmware on apps it can be programmed to sync the clock to the cloud

Many thanks for the prompt reply. Would my external normally open contact go across the 'T' terminals? I am using the onboard siren and strobe and have nothing else to connect.

I see good makes more shekels

When you completely down-power It remembers the codes zone settings ect in the NVM. But it wont keep the clock going while its down powered, that will default to watchdog

Watchdog reset or something? There's no battery in keypad

The time and date also reset on my wired keypad. So either they don't have a non-volatile memory to hold time settings or a lithium cell in the keypad is dead.

I wrote the colours of the wires on the inside of the sounder enclosure and what terminals they connect to when I installed it, for scenarios like this. I notice when I open the lid of my panel, it detects the tamper and keeps beeping, but the alarm doesn't sound. Maybe I set it that way, or that's the default. The alarm sounds when the panel is armed and the lid is opened, as expected. Also I powered down the panel and disconnected its battery and the volume from the sounder was really low, suggesting the battery in it is pretty much dead (no LEDs lit either). When the battery in the panel is connected and also mains power, volume from the sounder is still scratchy and volume randomly increases and decreases, suggesting a secondary problem of a bad piezo element as you suggested or maybe corroded connections.

You know approx cost ? I give it passing see what he says I know the onsite maintenance so pricing isn't a problem But yeah I understand the alignment bit Powered lock looks good tho , just surface mount the cables lol