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Hi bit of a strange setup. Doing a site where they're upgrading half a building. Installed a new advanced mxpro5 (hochiki protocol). Existing was an old kentec syncro. Client wants old panel to send fire and fault signal to new panel Can someone give me a step by step guide wiring this and programming advanced panel config

Thank you, this is most helpful.........

System with linear transformers normally have DC-DC voltage regulation after rectification, AC voltages wouldn't matter unless under the the required DC voltage. 14V is still high. There are plenty of other system check engineers would do on a service over just voltage. Charging current you would check amperage in series with a good battery. Before this test I would discharge the battery by measuring the system current in alarm and standby.

its was probably higher when it was 1st fitted, as the electric board have brought down nominal voltages its reduced !

Thank you..... As you've mentioned aux voltage, I'd like to provide a little more information. There is a block of six terminals grouped together on the circuit board all related to power, two for the connection from the transformer, they measure 18.34 VAC, two for the battery connections, they measure 14.27 VDC and finally two for the PIR's etc, they measure 13.58 VDC Hope the above are more helpful regarding the working condition of the power supply. (If this changes nothing, no bother, at least you now have the full picture to work with) Regards.

Aux voltage should be around 13.6Vdc. 14 or more is too high it's likely the voltage regulator is failing. They sometimes have adjustment controls to set voltage lower on the 317 but even so I imagine it's tired and can't push enough amperage to fully charge a battery after a power cut. Most ADE stuff this age is like this and should be considered for upgrade. Modern stuff uses switch mode power supplies and while more complex use a lot less energy over there life.

Good afternoon. My comment stating 14.6V at the panel battery connections was intended as for information for the more knowledgeable on here to perhaps tell me one way or the other if the panel is working correctly, and not in any way that, in my opinion, this area of the panel was ok. (Hence the reason I'm in the DIY installers forum !) From your reply I would assume that the PSU is actually not working correctly, if this is so I'd appreciate it if you could perhaps elaborate a little so that I could better understand this issue and therefore learn something. I'm always grateful to anyone whom is more knowledgeable about these things than me that takes the time to reply in an effort to help / assist. Regards, Dave Walton.

Same, but my app simple lists user codes 000 and 001 (Engineer and Master). Not really any need for anything else. Unless you want to play with menu text for a laugh.

Oh so the PSU is cooked then...

Price of a panel and keypad DIY your mad keeping this going

I have removed the old battery and plan to replace it once I've finished doing the few little alterations I hope to make. Checked the voltage at the panel outputs for the battery and was getting 14.6 V. Regards.

You say it's reliable but I'd be amazed if it actually charges the battery properly.... I'm all for looking after things in good working order but most ADE stuff I come across is no longer FFP.

If you could look for me, it'd be much appreciated...... Regards.

I have a used one in the front store rm Weather I could find it is a different matter...

Evening all. I have a very old but very reliable ADE Optima 2 Plus 8 zone alarm system that I installed some 30+ years ago. Problem is I would now like to add another keypad to the system (Two fitted at present) and the chances of me getting my hands on one is more or less zero ! (Already looked on Ebay, etc) So, two questions for the good folk on here, first the long shot.......Does anyone by any chance have a Optima 2 plus keypad lurking somewhere in the depths of their van, garage, loft, etc, etc, that they'd like to sell me ?, and two, is there an alternative keypad that I could use on this system, and if so, which one is it ? FYI.....I've attached an image of the type of keypad in question, the connections on the keypad are as follows K1 - K2 (Tamper) K3 - K4 (- & +) K5 - K6 (Data) If anyone on here could help me out, it would be very much appreciated. Regards, Dave Walton.

I'd assume the same thing is on here for a different product- https://securitytradesupplies.com/?s=transformer

19vac normally

Can anyone help me please , trying to locate/purchase transformer for Regalsafe RS55 panel. Or specs ,I.e output Voltage ( I think AC?) thank you Bryan

In hindsight, yes!

Should have bought a Verisure plaque.

RE: Mr Happy it was advertised as so with the following blurb when I enquired (as you can tell I am not an expert, I ordered 2 units ans the other works fine): This decoy has a solar panel located behind the blue lens which is connected to the included rechargeable battery. With daylight the battery charges and is kept topped up. The battery pack when fully charged has a voltage of 4.8v and the LEDs only require a small amount of power above 3v to flash. There is enough capacity in the battery to keep the LEDs flashing for several weeks even in there was no daylight. During winter there is still daylight which will charge the battery so the LEDs will flash. Once fitted you can leave it for several years and it will keep on flashing. The decoy cover is identical to the live siren and will look like you have a real alarm. ADT is probably the best known alarm company in the UK so fitting their decoy will be a great deterrent. Hope that helps. Have a great day and best regards.

Thanks - I did power up again had leds for about 2 seconds and then nothing. I will check the above - thanks again

How is it solar powered ?

Its likely one of the diodes has blown, sometimes you can tell which one because the diode splits or looks wet, other than that you would have to desolder each one and measure it. Also look closely at the board both sides you may have burnt a track. Burning smell is another big give away that something has blown

Thanks again - so I tried this, the led flashed once and there was a small beep when I reattached the wires as above - but then nothing beyond that. I can try and leave a bit longer to charge and try again. Beyond that if it is damaged by reversed polarity, is there something I can replace to fix this? Or would it be more serious and more of a write-off situation? Thanks