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Keypad is mounted on brick face, whoever originally installed it has placed it over the mortor joints so water has been getting in through this joint. There is only 1 x 1amp glass fuse in the psu which is fine, I have removed the fuse also and done a test of it. As said, the keypad and maglock is now getting power and working as it should. It's just the red error light is now showing on the psu and is worrying me incase it's a fire hazzard. I have powered everything off for now. I have added a photo of back of keypad

Fuse has blown on the PSU? The back of the keypad is potted from what I remember so you maybe lucky and cleaning it up will work with a new fuse?

Probably need a new keypad , you could try and clean it up a little bit I don't think it will help, although surprised it's had that much water behind it, I have installed and they still working for years Is it on a slanted feather edge mounted or something?

Hi all I am not a security engineer just a home owner. I have a tool shed with a vanderbilt Act5e keypad controlling a maglock on the door. This is powered by an elmdene psu. It also has a green break glass and push to exit button. The power had stopped going to maglock and upon various checks with a multimeter the psu, break glass and push to exit switch was OK. I then removed keypad and water had made its way into back of unit and corroded the 12v and 0 terminals and the common wire had snapped. I have replaced the common wire into the 12v terminal and after connecting all back up, the red fault light is showing on the psu, however the maglock is now powered and working. I am thinking it might be recognising a short circuit due to the corrosion. Will cleaning the terminals correct this or will a new keypad be required or any other issues you think it may be. The psu also has a standby battery showing correct voltage. I am not an engineer, I really cannot afford an expensive fix as it's only a shed. I would like to try all things possible to me before removing. Thanks for any help or advice.

Of it's new firmware on apps it can be programmed to sync the clock to the cloud

Many thanks for the prompt reply. Would my external normally open contact go across the 'T' terminals? I am using the onboard siren and strobe and have nothing else to connect.

I see good makes more shekels

When you completely down-power It remembers the codes zone settings ect in the NVM. But it wont keep the clock going while its down powered, that will default to watchdog

Watchdog reset or something? There's no battery in keypad

The time and date also reset on my wired keypad. So either they don't have a non-volatile memory to hold time settings or a lithium cell in the keypad is dead.

I wrote the colours of the wires on the inside of the sounder enclosure and what terminals they connect to when I installed it, for scenarios like this. I notice when I open the lid of my panel, it detects the tamper and keeps beeping, but the alarm doesn't sound. Maybe I set it that way, or that's the default. The alarm sounds when the panel is armed and the lid is opened, as expected. Also I powered down the panel and disconnected its battery and the volume from the sounder was really low, suggesting the battery in it is pretty much dead (no LEDs lit either). When the battery in the panel is connected and also mains power, volume from the sounder is still scratchy and volume randomly increases and decreases, suggesting a secondary problem of a bad piezo element as you suggested or maybe corroded connections.

You know approx cost ? I give it passing see what he says I know the onsite maintenance so pricing isn't a problem But yeah I understand the alignment bit Powered lock looks good tho , just surface mount the cables lol

Word of warning with shear locks alignment is critical any play on the door forget it, use lock tight on the screws unless you want to keep going back and adjusting it, lastly pay close attention to the instructions, they come with different springs for a reason. Surface mounted shearlocks need the right springs, (see above) but generally wont need high level carpentry skills, mortice is a different story altogether. Personally Id sub fitting a mortice shearlock to a locksmith they will do a neater job of fitting it and getting it spot on, just put the wires in the holes is my advice especially as you have never done one before. https://www.aldridgesecurity.co.uk/adams-0003-adams-rite-1354-0100-mortice-shear-magnet.html Thats where our locksmith gets his

looking at purchase history- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363360731149?_skw=Adams+Rite+1354&itmmeta=01JS6WAVX1WTH6WYZATKQ5XTAR&hash=item5499fcc00d:g:xF4AAOSwvulgeEoc&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ckQ16os1X414xU7swkyhcrz%2FDiEflFcYti0S7mm2SnTCK0uc%2FMj7t7LS6hVmRs5Zjn2J1pEsxUY27lby%2B8YUwuG2eqYZ6gZRLLysCXUjkJUzJgbfH4yX%2BHf1fFGehnytkoMIvwSZaMR8y3He0%2BfmyvYM2q5297H65xkRzyZZ0H%2FqdFMwlBrMxHTvNHYgaaYfGYX%2BRs5zcq3mRZaBFhL%2B2NA4yVs6Z0WEk2U%2FSRa9LSMb0AKQdFySAqGMV4IdrsQjmihTzU2Mi%2BpKjPr3yoA%2BRSv8zGBGlRxulJspGWWRELqA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-i-q9zJZQ adi want £630+vat I reckon all the magnetic locks come from the same chinses factory's- An RGL MSL-2600 is best I can do outside of fleabay is £91.12+vat

Seen some online https://www.onlinesecurityproducts.co.uk/shear-locks/cdvi-diax-cz3000-flush-mount-1500kg-self-aligning-shearlock.html

I have existing Pyronix Deltabells on my installation and to maintain aesthetics I have purchased another one, although not for use with my alarm system, but to be triggered via an alternative source using a volt free normally open contact to act as a deterrent. Noting this proposal, can someone advise how to wire the terminals and set the jumpers to activate the alarm (bell and strobe) when the external contact closes. I have a separate 12v power supply for the install. The manual for the wiring is here Thanks in advance.

At work I replaced the Adams right shear lock, Item came from eBay as adi what £500

https://www.abloy.com/global/en/our-products/products/electric-locks/europrofile-range/solenoid-locks/lock-case-el560 This will also remove the PTE button and BGU. But requires drilling the door to get the cable on the hinge side, which is a bit tricky process. Or something like this https://www.abloy.com/gb/en/products/wired-locking/eped/locking/352m-80-motor-lock to be mounted into the door frame.

Hey, Need to think of the wiring logic for the automatic opening mechanism door with a maglock to be released in a fire event from the Gallagher panel. A few spare puzzle pieces are available in my brain: I want to avoid using additional relays and hanging on the cables in an already tiny panel. Usually, the door opening mechanism is controlled with 24v and recommended to be controlled with dry contacts, but would I be able to use a common ground in some way? Gallagher fire interface relay / DC distributor has some other ways to be wired in, I wonder if this can be employed to achieve this function? I may sacrifice additional Gallagher controller output for this, but I couldn't find a function for this, or is it a logic block's function? Happy Easter.

Shear lock seems the way, although I never done one of those, don't seem to difficult, just need to get some tape to fix it on Guy in this building doesn't mind spending Any examples of shears on how your fitting them ?

rim releases normally fall to bit by the machine screws falling out thread lock helps its either the door slamming or cnuts braying the door... a shear lock is very dear !

Cmon man , I am with the supreme court in this one