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Word of warning with shear locks alignment is critical any play on the door forget it, use lock tight on the screws unless you want to keep going back and adjusting it, lastly pay close attention to the instructions, they come with different springs for a reason. Surface mounted shearlocks need the right springs, (see above) but generally wont need high level carpentry skills, mortice is a different story altogether. Personally Id sub fitting a mortice shearlock to a locksmith they will do a neater job of fitting it and getting it spot on, just put the wires in the holes is my advice especially as you have never done one before. https://www.aldridgesecurity.co.uk/adams-0003-adams-rite-1354-0100-mortice-shear-magnet.html Thats where our locksmith gets his

looking at purchase history- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363360731149?_skw=Adams+Rite+1354&itmmeta=01JS6WAVX1WTH6WYZATKQ5XTAR&hash=item5499fcc00d:g:xF4AAOSwvulgeEoc&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ckQ16os1X414xU7swkyhcrz%2FDiEflFcYti0S7mm2SnTCK0uc%2FMj7t7LS6hVmRs5Zjn2J1pEsxUY27lby%2B8YUwuG2eqYZ6gZRLLysCXUjkJUzJgbfH4yX%2BHf1fFGehnytkoMIvwSZaMR8y3He0%2BfmyvYM2q5297H65xkRzyZZ0H%2FqdFMwlBrMxHTvNHYgaaYfGYX%2BRs5zcq3mRZaBFhL%2B2NA4yVs6Z0WEk2U%2FSRa9LSMb0AKQdFySAqGMV4IdrsQjmihTzU2Mi%2BpKjPr3yoA%2BRSv8zGBGlRxulJspGWWRELqA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-i-q9zJZQ adi want £630+vat I reckon all the magnetic locks come from the same chinses factory's- An RGL MSL-2600 is best I can do outside of fleabay is £91.12+vat

Seen some online https://www.onlinesecurityproducts.co.uk/shear-locks/cdvi-diax-cz3000-flush-mount-1500kg-self-aligning-shearlock.html

I have existing Pyronix Deltabells on my installation and to maintain aesthetics I have purchased another one, although not for use with my alarm system, but to be triggered via an alternative source using a volt free normally open contact to act as a deterrent. Noting this proposal, can someone advise how to wire the terminals and set the jumpers to activate the alarm (bell and strobe) when the external contact closes. I have a separate 12v power supply for the install. The manual for the wiring is here Thanks in advance.

At work I replaced the Adams right shear lock, Item came from eBay as adi what £500

https://www.abloy.com/global/en/our-products/products/electric-locks/europrofile-range/solenoid-locks/lock-case-el560 This will also remove the PTE button and BGU. But requires drilling the door to get the cable on the hinge side, which is a bit tricky process. Or something like this https://www.abloy.com/gb/en/products/wired-locking/eped/locking/352m-80-motor-lock to be mounted into the door frame.

Hey, Need to think of the wiring logic for the automatic opening mechanism door with a maglock to be released in a fire event from the Gallagher panel. A few spare puzzle pieces are available in my brain: I want to avoid using additional relays and hanging on the cables in an already tiny panel. Usually, the door opening mechanism is controlled with 24v and recommended to be controlled with dry contacts, but would I be able to use a common ground in some way? Gallagher fire interface relay / DC distributor has some other ways to be wired in, I wonder if this can be employed to achieve this function? I may sacrifice additional Gallagher controller output for this, but I couldn't find a function for this, or is it a logic block's function? Happy Easter.

Shear lock seems the way, although I never done one of those, don't seem to difficult, just need to get some tape to fix it on Guy in this building doesn't mind spending Any examples of shears on how your fitting them ?

rim releases normally fall to bit by the machine screws falling out thread lock helps its either the door slamming or cnuts braying the door... a shear lock is very dear !

Cmon man , I am with the supreme court in this one

I doubt it's the battery As in causing your sounder issue

Pretty standard yep.

I could use something like this maybe, depending on dimensions. The existing battery has a capacity of 170 mAh, trickle charged at 14 mA. https://www.amazon.co.uk/6V-330mAH-Ni-MH-Battery-Replacement/dp/B09C2FVP9L

just snip them individually that way you will know what colour goes where when you put it back/replace it. No need to down power completely just be aware the alarm will tamper

So I'm going to take my external sounder down off the wall to diagnose what's wrong with it. Maybe the piezo element is failing as james.wilson suggested in another post. Are the settings stored indefinitely in non-volatile memory when I remove mains and battery power? I'm going to have to disconnect wires from the sounder, so I don't want the ends shorting out or have to put tape or whatever over them when I disconnect them. I suppose I could stick them one by one into a terminal block to keep them apart.

It puts more load on the psu it pulls more current than the psu is designed to provide, and eventually burns out the charging circuit

Im glad you didnt call it tape of colour

How does that happen? If the battery fails and vents? I think that happened with my old panel because the terminals corroded as though they got sprayed with something. Or is it due to the battery pulling too much current during the float charge and ageing the charge circuitry, while it should only be taking a trickle.

Brown tape yes

You could maybe fit a morticed shear mag, or a shoot bolt. But I would probably go with Steves idea and fit an external mag on the outside and use star screws or anti tamper screw heads to prevent someone unscrewing it or a architectural mag https://www.cdvi.co.uk/products/categories/magnetic-architectural-handles/

Assumed you would be OK with that and sticky tape

Found the instruction leaflet. It's a 6V, 170 mAh, NiMh. Are they standard, off the shelf battery packs or special HKC ones? Also does the sounder battery power the sounder, with the cable intact and the sounder getting power, or is it powered by the panel? I'm trying to establish whether a bad battery in the sounder is causing low voltage or pulling down its charging voltage. I'll put a meter on it to see what the story is.

Oh in that case it's just a few quid dude for the internal backup battery Thing is in your first post you have a link for RF battery pack hence I thought it's RF sabb But the RF sabb can also run off the panel on 12v but the signalling is via the RF Wired bell, then you can get any bell as a replacement if you had to

Are they rechargeable C123s? This is a wired sounder. I'm going to open the sounder to see what the story is. My old sounder failed due to corrosion, but that was because it had a high voltage strobe and voltage tracked across the PCB due to the varnish breaking down and moisture presumably. A new sounder is €47 + VAT. Battery he says is €38 + VAT.