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  1. This is a long shot , but is this possible?
    2 points
  2. demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??
    2 points
  3. 1 point
  4. Seems we all do/did them differently... Similar to 6 Under the washer like JW and only half round with the sheath left on but longer than the cores if that makes sense.
    1 point
  5. It may aswell be OF the amount of skin in the shot... Issue with doing a full turn around the screw is the loop binds causing it to pull round with the pan head; like with the red core here.
    1 point
  6. Unlike my only fans a/c this one's free- VID_20241108_182950361.mp4
    1 point
  7. An induced AC reading of 66.6Vac is one to worry about....
    1 point
  8. When the PSU is off there is no AC present the battery is DC it probably is coming from the PSU im not doubting it but my bet is that all of them give off AC noise
    1 point
  9. Ive just checked the ac noise on our demo panel in the training room and thats 32v, that panel hasnt seen much action at all, mostly used for testing different programming scenarios. It has a couple of wired contacts and a wired detector the old style keypad a GSM/Wifi card and some wireless stuff on it. I am wondering if its a trait of the switch mode PSU
    1 point
  10. Bear in mind that switch mode psu add what looks like induced ac.id be interested to see what a new psu does. Mine is knacked cos I've overloaded it lots in testing.
    1 point
  11. You could try an ACT1313 https://www.actmeters.co.uk/alarm-troubleshooting/1313-12v-spike-suppressor
    1 point
  12. or try removing the ac power (pull fuse) for a bit and see if it continues when on battery only. Also measure your induced ac with the mains off to see the difference between the psu on and off
    1 point
  13. I suppose I'd test it by running it on a lead to another location not fixed to the wall
    1 point
  14. What's opposite it or near it It's time for pictures , don't worry if install is dodgy , so are mine But your saying when no one is near it right , from a distance
    1 point
  15. Exorcizo te, creatura salis, per Deum vivum, per Deum verum, per Deum sanctum, per Deum
    1 point
  16. I would swap it, they will get exchange aswell Otherwise go see
    1 point
  17. Some of the keypads had touch sensitivity problems , these are all usually exchanged via the supplier , hkc can't tell you which ones are at fault , and over time the problem gets worse where they keypad starts pressing its own buttons as such If you bought without warranties unlikely you can exchange and will just have to hope it's just the Illumination bit
    1 point
  18. Not seen it myself but most keypad are set to always on. The close to wake is an rf keypad thing but allows you to have wired and rf kehpads seem similar. I'd say you have a faulty one
    1 point
  19. You can have the lights on all the time, or on proximity. I have an RKP on my landing I would have noticed if it kept illuminating. I wouldnt know if my other RKP's illuminated intermittently as the only time I go to them is when im coming or going .
    1 point
  20. So today I managed to work out the puzzle of opening one. I am converting it to 24vDC ordered a 24v heat element, the existing fan seems to work on 24v Ill let you know if Ive saved £600 (parts inc psu cost about £25)
    1 point
  21. Most external sirens are compatible with each other but using the same brand as the panel will mean the terminals are named the same and you may get better feature compatibility. Regarding PIR's they are the elements within the pyro. A quad has a better sensor and lens arrangement dividing the detection area into four elements that all need to trigger together. For a great explanation I always point to this video. Bear in mind it's only explaining a basic PIR not a Quad. You could buy sensors years ago with twin dual element pyro's side by side. So cheaper here then...
    1 point
  22. They just want to throw it in and charge extra for the service and batteries. It's sad some of the industry has been going that way... Would be a nice job to wire with the boards up already. Wireless does have it's place but I'd always wire as much as I can. Keypads and Bells are always wired on my systems even if much of the detection is not. Texecom isn't as open to DIY as it was, especially on the Premier stuff. Veritas is a DIY only product now I'd say tho. I would wire a single 8 core to everything, but a single 6 core to everything would likely be fine. I just like having spare pairs for the future. Then see if you can find a company that will use your wiring.
    1 point
  23. Kids of today! Blooming amateurs! Running cables while the floor is up is easy, hard wired is better than wireless for 101 reasons. Not that wireless doesnt have its place, if you had a flat or your renting, or its impossible to get a wire to where its needed wireless is fine. But in your case it sounds like whoever you got to quote is either lazy or stupid and you dont want either of those combinations installing stuff in your house
    1 point
  24. Basically took 20seconds once prepped
    1 point
  25. Bell on battery , but I am feeling nervous already
    1 point
  26. You can have them as dummy lights Don't mean it's always a deterrent tho
    1 point
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