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Map7 on the zones would do the trick, now where did I park my DeLorean.... Sounds like a nice job to swap out with new controls and a smart PSU, split that detection the best way possible. You'd have a good base to start from then, with no weird 30 year old software glitches or NVM memory loss issues.

but the ion has awful 1 way wireless?

Tolerance of USB 5V is +0.25 nowhere near 7.4 It's a bit like those old scanny or optima panels you go to. It shouldn't be powering the passives and charging the battery at 14.8V, you know it's likely to let go at some point but couldnt say when, but the customer is happy its setting fine. I'll be down to the device how well it takes the overvoltage, but this would usually be given off as heat which isn't great for a lithium battery. These are the modules I am on about, they are rated for a 32A breaker. You would IR test a new installation with them dissed then connect them up, existing job you could IR @250 or dis them to test circuits @500.

All part of other companies, it's survival of the fittest in this game. Aritech = UTC Castle = Hik Menvier = Eaton

**edit** take your pic any commercial control would do the issue you'll have the amount of current drawn, if your doing DIY & have not moved an over expanded set of controls about you'll have an interesting learning curve.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183993670048 There are others similar available but very useful to have one in your tool kit if your around these devices a lot, confirmed there accuracy with my multimeter initially. Say you have a house full of them and you have an intermittent issue on your power circuit, there is no way to have the circuit powered with no load and no easy way to do testing as a megger would blow them all up. It's an unlikely issue but you could add hours on to an electrical job disconnecting them all back to a standard installation before you even start looking for a wiring issue etc. To the OP you will find that the closer you get to the rated output (trying to charge 3 devices) the more the voltage will sag, meaning they will take longer to charge than they possibly would if you charged them individually..

it will work for a while....

Ford Scorpio, these are a similar age to 4600 but cost a lot more £ at the time see many on the road ? expect to get parts easily for one ? expect the local ford agent to support one ? expect the people who where experts in 'em 25yrs ago to be still around? I could attend & look at a 4600, probably bodge a broken transmitter back to life or wait for used / BNIB to turn up on fleabay. 2 visits is gonna probably going to cost half the cost of new system.

I feel they have far too many issues to be worth it. A lot of them are shoehorned into the outlets free space with no thought on quality of the power supply. Even if they supply the correct voltages from new (a lot of the cheap ones don't) as it ages the voltage will creep up and will not last as long as the outlet would itself. There is a tiny amount of tolerance with USB voltage before batteries take a hit, cheap car chargers can be just as bad for this. Cheaper brands it can effect the IR of the device, some brands known to make the USB ports live in a failure of the PSU. On top of that there is also the issue you can't switch them off (from a safety or power POV) without doing so at the CU, lack of support for larger devices and/or smart charging. In short a bad idea IMO.

"gosh" Homo.

the OP said 1999 ish- That back when people had CRT Tellys & VHS, (1999 argos book) gosh I feel old....