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Agreed, we were quite conservative with the www with our two kids, both of them were avid readers and not really into gaming etc. No phones until they were at high school, James had an ipod thing but even that was closely monitored by us. Both were taught about the obvious dangers of the www. I remember looking thorough Jamess search history and he'd been searching for boobs. He was about 12 at the time and was mortified when I spoke to him about it lol. If it was up to me I'd also restrict under 16s and think it's a cesspit for bullying, at least when I went to school the bullying stopped at 3pm.

Not wishing to get into the debate but 'Proper' gear needs to comply with the product standard (not the install) and part of that is testing the battery OK Most if not all panel will dip the supply and measure the voltage as a means to do this check. ie also all the 12v peripherals should be able (if compliant) to handle this ripple voltage. I dont know texecom gear well or at all and not sure if the network errors are a log tool or just log 'noise'. Either way it shouldnt cause a problem in normal operation. If it is causing a problem (other than a disganostic log) then something is wrong.

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

Here's a crazy idea.... why not power down your knacked alarm ?

If you don't want it then get it killed. If you do want it then find someone to. We have a boat load of people and pyronix are to blame for this who do want a security system but spend more at Costa.

nonce ban ? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2022/04/06/TELEMMGLPICT000058725877_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhZJ9vnP3TZj6dX4F0Tnhrlt1EhdK4aiwcWMQPYeW9P0.jpeg?imwidth=680 they'd laugh out loud....

I wouldn't of thought a bulb unless halogen would get hot enough quixh enough

id say your puttin gthe magnet to the wrong side of the contact and you have a grade 3 door contact

Sorry I disagree- I've never had any reason to use an oscilloscope on an intruder alarm nor do I need a £500+ multi meter (it would only get lost or broken out in alarm land) Aged 17 or so I knew something like a 9600 required a power supply to run all 16 zones & multiple keypads & speakers Who would have guessed more than 30 years later I'd still be having conversations with people who don't understand the basics principles, Suitable current in day & alarm, suitable voltage at each device when running off the battery, if you've not got this you'll have problems Your alarm appear to have lots of problems I've got lots of alarms with very few problems, its funny old world isn't it ?

Well you came asking for help and your disregarding what you are told by people that work with this stuff every day. I have told you how to rule this out and some things to check, there are further things that need ruling out but it's not normal. To expand on MrH above, as a rule of thumb I would expect each power supply to have <~500mA quiescent per 7Ah battery to conform to BS EN; this is aside to your issue.

Hopefully nobody noticed but there have been a few upgrades on tsi. Mainly aiming for speed improvement on mobile mainly if anyone has seen a speed increase.

the nice rf module would be plugged in here. As i should it isnt so im assuming your not use nice rf remotes

Nice... jpg

Premiers have separate programmable volumes for chime and advisory tones

Yes thats called back focusing

Yes, they are also really hard to get hold of. You have to send a message in bottle...

Unlikely, if weak WiFi it's not impossible, and remember it's a friend of yours, which you don't live with I say that because usually when you ask lots of questions and try and fault find what someone says , it's not always what they originally said, which misleads what the real problem with audio might be, weak WiFi can cause audio loss, and even a device elsewhere could potentially interfere with audio when WiFi weak, possibly it's a coincidence

Fish fingers with toy

Awe, do you need a cuddle....

It may aswell be OF the amount of skin in the shot... Issue with doing a full turn around the screw is the loop binds causing it to pull round with the pan head; like with the red core here.

Unlike my only fans a/c this one's free- VID_20241108_182950361.mp4

An induced AC reading of 66.6Vac is one to worry about....

yeah dont use them anymore but when i did, strip in the normal way (leaving some insulation to twist tight) then wrap around a 2.5mm terminal driver, remove screw and washer and push through loop of cable making sure to keep so when it tightens it doesnt loosen the coil.

Don't use them any more, more modern styles have PCB mounted sprung terminals and most things are wired FSL/EOL now. You should remove enough isolation from the conductors to do a half turn around the screw. Wrap the conductor with the 7 strands twisted up together, clockwise to make a half turn around the screw. The washer is to trap the reed conductors securely, I have always gone under the washer but I would imagine it's designed to be between.

Ive just checked the ac noise on our demo panel in the training room and thats 32v, that panel hasnt seen much action at all, mostly used for testing different programming scenarios. It has a couple of wired contacts and a wired detector the old style keypad a GSM/Wifi card and some wireless stuff on it. I am wondering if its a trait of the switch mode PSU

Bear in mind that switch mode psu add what looks like induced ac.id be interested to see what a new psu does. Mine is knacked cos I've overloaded it lots in testing.

You could try an ACT1313 https://www.actmeters.co.uk/alarm-troubleshooting/1313-12v-spike-suppressor

22.3 on mine

What's opposite it or near it It's time for pictures , don't worry if install is dodgy , so are mine But your saying when no one is near it right , from a distance

I'd agree can quick change in minutes but we've done it before, although you wouldn't have let the neighbours know... Did the right thing there, you have told them you have a working system and you don't want/expect it to cry wolf.

This is the reason you use proper gear. Diy stuff can be disabled but what would you prefer an off switch? Or worse an off code. You have found out that compliant equipment does as it says.

For work in London you don't really need to provide much more information than say "Battersea" to see if a local provider is willing to offer a price for the job. Its unlikely we have an active poster that supports the location & your preferred manufacturer but a member may be able to provide a recommendation to co. which will look after you. I'm form he North of England & do some commercial work in London, after travel & expenses I think I earn the same money as working at home.... I only do it for the turn over & the look of horror when I say please & thank you to bus drivers & good morning sir to traffic wardens..... ect

You can have them as dummy lights Don't mean it's always a deterrent tho

Yes they are let's hope a no light one does too. A poorly maintained system should be decommissioned. Get it powered down then it won't be a nuisance to you or your neighbours

...Have you seen the shooter, looks the typical American retard. Six fingers per hand, long very thinning hair, no teeth (or very little).

If you can't turn if off with the keypad, your wasting your time with wifi Personally I'd remove the wifi card until you can control the alarm with the keypad

Next you will say they self certification there equipment

I have a corded & also a cordless one I never knew how much a "hairdryer on stick" costs

You may be able to change the setting on the alarm by pressing buttons, Which button you press depend on which alarm it is....

don't get involved in another one,.... When purchasing a house they or their solicitor should have the common sense to have the vendor declare the alarm working or not, ideally providing a service report dated within the last 12 month. Control, cable or device - Controls, does the controls have 12 volts on the aux supply ? (check fuse?) Device, does the device have 12 volts present to power it Cable, does the power cable have low ohms when made into pair. same for tamper & 12hr circuit. & high ohms between every other pair ? Why do I say don't get involved ? Who do you think there are going to ring on an evening or weekend when there alarm won't set, bleeps too much, does not bleep when it should bleep..... YOU Find a local proper alarm co. or tell the end user to find one

You need ? they all do a battery test, forget it man just install it and move on with life lol

Congratulations on being our latest alarm expert & welcome to the moderation team....

As I understand it a a switch mode power supply switches on & off this is what I assume you are seeing on a scope ? Texecom has been around nearly 40 yr & turn over nearly 40 million, My stuff works, yours system despite your test equipment & qualifications doesn't ?

Me? I think there horrid things to work with- I had to ring risco the other week to find out how to toggle the channels to test a dualcom Beyond paying me to stand there in person & press buttons whilst swearing at the alarm until it works the only support I can offer is moral support.... @naeem7861 you can do it son ! The full manual is online, if you don't do alarms it probably makes more sense as I have a preconceived idea of how things should work & this is an Israeli product targeted at North America ?

Every possible measurement needed to commission and diagnose an intruder alarm can be done with multimeter If you have property large enough to need 5 expanders & lots of expensive test equipment I would assume some with your qualifications & talent could earn more more doing your own job & pay a proper alarm co. to provide a working complaint system rather faff around wasting time & money doing it poorly.

i think we will have to agree to disagree Al

Probably the best thing to do is to get three quotes. I would advise that you pick three accredited companies either ssiab or NSI gold https://www.nsi.org.uk/ https://ssaib.org/ you can search for local companies with your postcode on these sites Any good company will be able to tailor the alarm system to your needs and will give advise on how to make it simple to use. Most companies will have their own preferred brand that they like to install, we could all start recommending different brands here but it would just confuse you if installers in your area dont use these brands and recommend something else. Once you have your quotes come back here for more advice if you need it