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Agreed, we were quite conservative with the www with our two kids, both of them were avid readers and not really into gaming etc. No phones until they were at high school, James had an ipod thing but even that was closely monitored by us. Both were taught about the obvious dangers of the www. I remember looking thorough Jamess search history and he'd been searching for boobs. He was about 12 at the time and was mortified when I spoke to him about it lol. If it was up to me I'd also restrict under 16s and think it's a cesspit for bullying, at least when I went to school the bullying stopped at 3pm.

Not wishing to get into the debate but 'Proper' gear needs to comply with the product standard (not the install) and part of that is testing the battery OK Most if not all panel will dip the supply and measure the voltage as a means to do this check. ie also all the 12v peripherals should be able (if compliant) to handle this ripple voltage. I dont know texecom gear well or at all and not sure if the network errors are a log tool or just log 'noise'. Either way it shouldnt cause a problem in normal operation. If it is causing a problem (other than a disganostic log) then something is wrong.

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

Here's a crazy idea.... why not power down your knacked alarm ?

If you don't want it then get it killed. If you do want it then find someone to. We have a boat load of people and pyronix are to blame for this who do want a security system but spend more at Costa.

nonce ban ? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2022/04/06/TELEMMGLPICT000058725877_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhZJ9vnP3TZj6dX4F0Tnhrlt1EhdK4aiwcWMQPYeW9P0.jpeg?imwidth=680 they'd laugh out loud....

I wouldn't of thought a bulb unless halogen would get hot enough quixh enough

id say your puttin gthe magnet to the wrong side of the contact and you have a grade 3 door contact

Sorry I disagree- I've never had any reason to use an oscilloscope on an intruder alarm nor do I need a £500+ multi meter (it would only get lost or broken out in alarm land) Aged 17 or so I knew something like a 9600 required a power supply to run all 16 zones & multiple keypads & speakers Who would have guessed more than 30 years later I'd still be having conversations with people who don't understand the basics principles, Suitable current in day & alarm, suitable voltage at each device when running off the battery, if you've not got this you'll have problems Your alarm appear to have lots of problems I've got lots of alarms with very few problems, its funny old world isn't it ?

Well you came asking for help and your disregarding what you are told by people that work with this stuff every day. I have told you how to rule this out and some things to check, there are further things that need ruling out but it's not normal. To expand on MrH above, as a rule of thumb I would expect each power supply to have <~500mA quiescent per 7Ah battery to conform to BS EN; this is aside to your issue.

Pretty standard yep.

bought a 2nd hand monster one. Charities get rid every 3 yrs etc Its been flawless and i use it to print the village newletter etc 88000 pages in the last 18 months just on that. But ive tried to go as paperless as possible so print a lot less than we did 5 yrs ago. Not cos im green just for money reasons

Nice... jpg

Premiers have separate programmable volumes for chime and advisory tones

Yes, they are also really hard to get hold of. You have to send a message in bottle...

Every fire years in an intruder alarm Every 4 years in a fire alarm Unless they fail earlier...

As above But battery can sometimes prematurely die , might be example in a loft where I seen them die quicker , or sometimes boiler room and so on Yes load test , try it But you might be running all wireless aswell?

There is a normally closed output on the relay too....

@Alan12 You sound old enough to have learned many life lessons, but unfortunately taking advice from someone with experience isnt one of them. I dont think anyone here is trying to drum up business. My business mostly deals with commercial and public sector contracts, we do have some domestic but not a great deal. I would not be interested in taking on a 30 year old domestic Scantronic panel contract. Most here would be the same we all have plenty of work, this is one industry where you may struggle to find someone that will take it on. It was clear from you first post you are not a DIY installer you inherited the system and decided to try and fix it yourself. If you were a DIY installer you would have installed it yourself and had the manual already, and you would know what to do. Most DIY installers come here because they dont understand something in the manual or they want clarification on something or they want advice on placement etc. Alarm systems are made in such a way that they cannot be easily compromised. The side effects of this is that when they are not serviced regulary parts fail. This only becomes apparent when its too late and the alarm is sounding and cannot be stopped. Again most DIYers would understand this as they installed the system and understand how it works and carry out their own service regularly. Security companies have to run 24 hours and operate an out of hours service because even serviced alarm systems can go wrong. All of us on here get calls every now and again from non contract customers because there alarm is sounding and they cant stop it. My engineers wont attend non contract customers (mainly because non-contract cant afford the call-out charge) but that doesnt stop non-contract calling us and disturbing their sleep, and this is why we give advice on servicing. I am sorry that you thought that the advice we gave was not good enough. This forum is here to give free advice from engineers and business owners that give up their time free because they are passionate about this industry, not because they need to earn from you

Unlike my only fans a/c this one's free- VID_20241108_182950361.mp4

An induced AC reading of 66.6Vac is one to worry about....

Ive just checked the ac noise on our demo panel in the training room and thats 32v, that panel hasnt seen much action at all, mostly used for testing different programming scenarios. It has a couple of wired contacts and a wired detector the old style keypad a GSM/Wifi card and some wireless stuff on it. I am wondering if its a trait of the switch mode PSU

Bear in mind that switch mode psu add what looks like induced ac.id be interested to see what a new psu does. Mine is knacked cos I've overloaded it lots in testing.

You could try an ACT1313 https://www.actmeters.co.uk/alarm-troubleshooting/1313-12v-spike-suppressor

Excellent

or try removing the ac power (pull fuse) for a bit and see if it continues when on battery only. Also measure your induced ac with the mains off to see the difference between the psu on and off

So today I managed to work out the puzzle of opening one. I am converting it to 24vDC ordered a 24v heat element, the existing fan seems to work on 24v Ill let you know if Ive saved £600 (parts inc psu cost about £25)

Most external sirens are compatible with each other but using the same brand as the panel will mean the terminals are named the same and you may get better feature compatibility. Regarding PIR's they are the elements within the pyro. A quad has a better sensor and lens arrangement dividing the detection area into four elements that all need to trigger together. For a great explanation I always point to this video. Bear in mind it's only explaining a basic PIR not a Quad. You could buy sensors years ago with twin dual element pyro's side by side. So cheaper here then...

I'd agree can quick change in minutes but we've done it before, although you wouldn't have let the neighbours know... Did the right thing there, you have told them you have a working system and you don't want/expect it to cry wolf.

Depends how it's all wired tho, if your going to take time you can disconnect and send power to it via a battery , otherwise as above I guess Keep windows and doors closed that way it doesn't bother you lol

if you remove the mains to the panel does this still occur. This will show if the 'noise' is coming in via the mains supply or another way

Some systems are mesh, as you have some wiring, receivers can likely be distributed throughout the system if it's really necessary. Pneumatic drills with decent bits fly through engineering brick or even concrete and rebar. I have yet to find a job that's not possible... Two sensors on a 6-core is possible via EOL wiring, which most systems are now. For control panels they mostly do the same stuff and every installer has there own preferred kit they have trained on, if your DIY'ing a one off it probably doesn't matter. Proper systems are not designed for installation by end users, so your not going to find reviews. You will possibly also struggle to get manufacturer support or manuals at all.

The Manual listed in the downloads don't download, IIRC the mercury abi had an lcd keypad 250 time & date log & was EOL 4k7 / 2k2 metal one might had a stu foorpint too... I'd rip it out & stamp on it as it will be 20+ years old

Just following up to confirm the alarm didn’t trigger again. The electrical fault has now been fixed and a guy from the alarm company checked the backup battery and it’s fine and didn’t need replaced. Thanks to all the friendly folk on here who give their time to help strangers on the internet (whichever part of these beautiful isles you happen to be from! ). It’s much appreciated.

Look at the cylinder there is an arrow pointer , needs to be pointing up, unless you magnets are to far away

Battery charging voltage on a non intelligent panel (which I assume this is) should be 13.69 - 13.75 v assuming normal ambient temp. Check charge current and charge voltage on load. Best way to test this is with a partially discharged battery and again when fully charged. I'd be concerned if load reading was below 13v and below 13.5 ish when fully charged An intelligent charge panel will ramp up voltage depending on charge state so harder to test

If you can't turn if off with the keypad, your wasting your time with wifi Personally I'd remove the wifi card until you can control the alarm with the keypad

You may be able to change the setting on the alarm by pressing buttons, Which button you press depend on which alarm it is....

You want omit on part set?

powermax as in the really old one or powermaster?

Leave password blank ?

The first production of an Led was 1962

For someone with all the kit and knowledge you seem to assume a lot, instead of diagnosing it. We may as well speak into the void at this point. Your repeating the same thing and clearly not reading or taking in what people are saying, your the one with the issue and looking for help...

As I understand it a a switch mode power supply switches on & off this is what I assume you are seeing on a scope ? Texecom has been around nearly 40 yr & turn over nearly 40 million, My stuff works, yours system despite your test equipment & qualifications doesn't ?

Me? I think there horrid things to work with- I had to ring risco the other week to find out how to toggle the channels to test a dualcom Beyond paying me to stand there in person & press buttons whilst swearing at the alarm until it works the only support I can offer is moral support.... @naeem7861 you can do it son ! The full manual is online, if you don't do alarms it probably makes more sense as I have a preconceived idea of how things should work & this is an Israeli product targeted at North America ?

Hello I use to work for Maxim Alarms and use to install these systems they use to have a six volt battery in that bell cover and a piece of plastic capping coming down the wall to a toke lock in a box where we’re you would set they alarm

Probably the best thing to do is to get three quotes. I would advise that you pick three accredited companies either ssiab or NSI gold https://www.nsi.org.uk/ https://ssaib.org/ you can search for local companies with your postcode on these sites Any good company will be able to tailor the alarm system to your needs and will give advise on how to make it simple to use. Most companies will have their own preferred brand that they like to install, we could all start recommending different brands here but it would just confuse you if installers in your area dont use these brands and recommend something else. Once you have your quotes come back here for more advice if you need it