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Agreed, we were quite conservative with the www with our two kids, both of them were avid readers and not really into gaming etc. No phones until they were at high school, James had an ipod thing but even that was closely monitored by us. Both were taught about the obvious dangers of the www. I remember looking thorough Jamess search history and he'd been searching for boobs. He was about 12 at the time and was mortified when I spoke to him about it lol. If it was up to me I'd also restrict under 16s and think it's a cesspit for bullying, at least when I went to school the bullying stopped at 3pm.

Not wishing to get into the debate but 'Proper' gear needs to comply with the product standard (not the install) and part of that is testing the battery OK Most if not all panel will dip the supply and measure the voltage as a means to do this check. ie also all the 12v peripherals should be able (if compliant) to handle this ripple voltage. I dont know texecom gear well or at all and not sure if the network errors are a log tool or just log 'noise'. Either way it shouldnt cause a problem in normal operation. If it is causing a problem (other than a disganostic log) then something is wrong.

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

Here's a crazy idea.... why not power down your knacked alarm ?

If you don't want it then get it killed. If you do want it then find someone to. We have a boat load of people and pyronix are to blame for this who do want a security system but spend more at Costa.

nonce ban ? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2022/04/06/TELEMMGLPICT000058725877_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhZJ9vnP3TZj6dX4F0Tnhrlt1EhdK4aiwcWMQPYeW9P0.jpeg?imwidth=680 they'd laugh out loud....

I wouldn't of thought a bulb unless halogen would get hot enough quixh enough

id say your puttin gthe magnet to the wrong side of the contact and you have a grade 3 door contact

Sorry I disagree- I've never had any reason to use an oscilloscope on an intruder alarm nor do I need a £500+ multi meter (it would only get lost or broken out in alarm land) Aged 17 or so I knew something like a 9600 required a power supply to run all 16 zones & multiple keypads & speakers Who would have guessed more than 30 years later I'd still be having conversations with people who don't understand the basics principles, Suitable current in day & alarm, suitable voltage at each device when running off the battery, if you've not got this you'll have problems Your alarm appear to have lots of problems I've got lots of alarms with very few problems, its funny old world isn't it ?

Well you came asking for help and your disregarding what you are told by people that work with this stuff every day. I have told you how to rule this out and some things to check, there are further things that need ruling out but it's not normal. To expand on MrH above, as a rule of thumb I would expect each power supply to have <~500mA quiescent per 7Ah battery to conform to BS EN; this is aside to your issue.

Hopefully nobody noticed but there have been a few upgrades on tsi. Mainly aiming for speed improvement on mobile mainly if anyone has seen a speed increase.

bought a 2nd hand monster one. Charities get rid every 3 yrs etc Its been flawless and i use it to print the village newletter etc 88000 pages in the last 18 months just on that. But ive tried to go as paperless as possible so print a lot less than we did 5 yrs ago. Not cos im green just for money reasons

Premiers have separate programmable volumes for chime and advisory tones

Yes thats called back focusing

Fish fingers with toy

It may aswell be OF the amount of skin in the shot... Issue with doing a full turn around the screw is the loop binds causing it to pull round with the pan head; like with the red core here.

When the PSU is off there is no AC present the battery is DC it probably is coming from the PSU im not doubting it but my bet is that all of them give off AC noise

Excellent

I suppose I'd test it by running it on a lead to another location not fixed to the wall

What's opposite it or near it It's time for pictures , don't worry if install is dodgy , so are mine But your saying when no one is near it right , from a distance

Some of the keypads had touch sensitivity problems , these are all usually exchanged via the supplier , hkc can't tell you which ones are at fault , and over time the problem gets worse where they keypad starts pressing its own buttons as such If you bought without warranties unlikely you can exchange and will just have to hope it's just the Illumination bit

You can have the lights on all the time, or on proximity. I have an RKP on my landing I would have noticed if it kept illuminating. I wouldnt know if my other RKP's illuminated intermittently as the only time I go to them is when im coming or going .

So today I managed to work out the puzzle of opening one. I am converting it to 24vDC ordered a 24v heat element, the existing fan seems to work on 24v Ill let you know if Ive saved £600 (parts inc psu cost about £25)

Most external sirens are compatible with each other but using the same brand as the panel will mean the terminals are named the same and you may get better feature compatibility. Regarding PIR's they are the elements within the pyro. A quad has a better sensor and lens arrangement dividing the detection area into four elements that all need to trigger together. For a great explanation I always point to this video. Bear in mind it's only explaining a basic PIR not a Quad. You could buy sensors years ago with twin dual element pyro's side by side. So cheaper here then...

They just want to throw it in and charge extra for the service and batteries. It's sad some of the industry has been going that way... Would be a nice job to wire with the boards up already. Wireless does have it's place but I'd always wire as much as I can. Keypads and Bells are always wired on my systems even if much of the detection is not. Texecom isn't as open to DIY as it was, especially on the Premier stuff. Veritas is a DIY only product now I'd say tho. I would wire a single 8 core to everything, but a single 6 core to everything would likely be fine. I just like having spare pairs for the future. Then see if you can find a company that will use your wiring.

Kids of today! Blooming amateurs! Running cables while the floor is up is easy, hard wired is better than wireless for 101 reasons. Not that wireless doesnt have its place, if you had a flat or your renting, or its impossible to get a wire to where its needed wireless is fine. But in your case it sounds like whoever you got to quote is either lazy or stupid and you dont want either of those combinations installing stuff in your house

This is the reason you use proper gear. Diy stuff can be disabled but what would you prefer an off switch? Or worse an off code. You have found out that compliant equipment does as it says.

Depends how it's all wired tho, if your going to take time you can disconnect and send power to it via a battery , otherwise as above I guess Keep windows and doors closed that way it doesn't bother you lol

Hi Sixwheeledbeast, Many thanks for the advice. I am more comfortable now I can forget the Scantronic option. I do not intend to try a DIY installation. I do intend to have the cabling in place myself. I took your advice that there is no such thing as cannot. Rather than trying to use the original cables for the three daisy chained sensors, I looked at covering two of the rooms from alternative accessable points. By coming from the loft I can cut through the first floor in cuboards to lay two new sensor positons, leaving just one of the three sensors on the original 6 core. The issue with my semi engineering brickwork was not how to break through them, that's already done. The issue is they seem to be Wi-Fi unfriendly. Sky mesh was a disaster for me. I feel more comfortable now that I can install a wired system with options to Wi-Fi extend if the need arises. Thank you once again.

Some systems are mesh, as you have some wiring, receivers can likely be distributed throughout the system if it's really necessary. Pneumatic drills with decent bits fly through engineering brick or even concrete and rebar. I have yet to find a job that's not possible... Two sensors on a 6-core is possible via EOL wiring, which most systems are now. For control panels they mostly do the same stuff and every installer has there own preferred kit they have trained on, if your DIY'ing a one off it probably doesn't matter. Proper systems are not designed for installation by end users, so your not going to find reviews. You will possibly also struggle to get manufacturer support or manuals at all.

For work in London you don't really need to provide much more information than say "Battersea" to see if a local provider is willing to offer a price for the job. Its unlikely we have an active poster that supports the location & your preferred manufacturer but a member may be able to provide a recommendation to co. which will look after you. I'm form he North of England & do some commercial work in London, after travel & expenses I think I earn the same money as working at home.... I only do it for the turn over & the look of horror when I say please & thank you to bus drivers & good morning sir to traffic wardens..... ect

This was the road I was heading down as it clearly shows this in the RF RIO manual but without a meaningful manual on the RF Portal I can't get a definite answer! I suspect it is because they are enrolled in a different way?

No need to think, read manual , get engineer to make changes for silent set

Just following up to confirm the alarm didn’t trigger again. The electrical fault has now been fixed and a guy from the alarm company checked the backup battery and it’s fine and didn’t need replaced. Thanks to all the friendly folk on here who give their time to help strangers on the internet (whichever part of these beautiful isles you happen to be from! ). It’s much appreciated.

Look at the cylinder there is an arrow pointer , needs to be pointing up, unless you magnets are to far away

Battery charging voltage on a non intelligent panel (which I assume this is) should be 13.69 - 13.75 v assuming normal ambient temp. Check charge current and charge voltage on load. Best way to test this is with a partially discharged battery and again when fully charged. I'd be concerned if load reading was below 13v and below 13.5 ish when fully charged An intelligent charge panel will ramp up voltage depending on charge state so harder to test

How did you test the battery?

You may be able to change the setting on the alarm by pressing buttons, Which button you press depend on which alarm it is....

You want omit on part set?

powermax as in the really old one or powermaster?

don't get involved in another one,.... When purchasing a house they or their solicitor should have the common sense to have the vendor declare the alarm working or not, ideally providing a service report dated within the last 12 month. Control, cable or device - Controls, does the controls have 12 volts on the aux supply ? (check fuse?) Device, does the device have 12 volts present to power it Cable, does the power cable have low ohms when made into pair. same for tamper & 12hr circuit. & high ohms between every other pair ? Why do I say don't get involved ? Who do you think there are going to ring on an evening or weekend when there alarm won't set, bleeps too much, does not bleep when it should bleep..... YOU Find a local proper alarm co. or tell the end user to find one

Leave password blank ?

The first production of an Led was 1962

As I understand it a a switch mode power supply switches on & off this is what I assume you are seeing on a scope ? Texecom has been around nearly 40 yr & turn over nearly 40 million, My stuff works, yours system despite your test equipment & qualifications doesn't ?

News to me, the legal info is missing from each of the websites, google finds the info regardless This was only interesting bit of info for me- 4000 x £150 is £600k which is not a lot of money for running an arc ?? (yes cctv pays more, however something like a smartcom will pay less) I guess at - https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/11798207

This is why to be admissible in court the recordings have to be in original format and watermarked. MP4 is okay for minor crimes where in most cases the crim puts his hands up when he sees the footage because he doesnt know the rules. But if you need evidence that sticks it must be in original format

Hello I use to work for Maxim Alarms and use to install these systems they use to have a six volt battery in that bell cover and a piece of plastic capping coming down the wall to a toke lock in a box where we’re you would set they alarm

SUNTHORNES!! (made in Aldershot I think) Yes, used to service loads of them in the late 80's and 90's. I remember the BELL TEST button, which was really just a Normally Closed button that removed the power to the external sounder! No bell timer, had to fit a seperate PCB inside panel to time the bell to 20 minutes. The cybertone sounder drilled into the front of the panel which gave you three tones. A continuous whine when you tried to set the system with a zone in fault, a wheeee-wheeee-wheeee for setting and unsetting and a lower faster tone for alarm. You couldn't set any of the zones (with exception of Exit/Entry zone) as "entry route", instead we fitted relays inside the panel which was connected into the E/E sounder to short out the relevant zones during Entry and Exit time. The zone cards, each of which had a Green LED for "ON" (not isolated), Yellow for "Zone in alarm" and Red as a memory after an alarm activation. The really old ones,the isolate button on the front panel used to toggle the Green LED off and on, but it was updated so that the Green LED would come back on when the keyswitch was turned back to off. On the front was a keyswitch and a large piece of darkened plastic where you could see the LEDs of all the zone cards. There was also an expansion board where you could fit loads of zone boards and have up to about 30 zones. There was one of these fitted in Jabro Cash and Carry in Luton (is it still there? this is about 20 years ago now!!) before it was updated to a 9500! Wish I had a photo of the panel! (I don't know why, just memories I guess!) Matt (not from Vidionics anymore like my username says)