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Agreed, we were quite conservative with the www with our two kids, both of them were avid readers and not really into gaming etc. No phones until they were at high school, James had an ipod thing but even that was closely monitored by us. Both were taught about the obvious dangers of the www. I remember looking thorough Jamess search history and he'd been searching for boobs. He was about 12 at the time and was mortified when I spoke to him about it lol. If it was up to me I'd also restrict under 16s and think it's a cesspit for bullying, at least when I went to school the bullying stopped at 3pm.

Not wishing to get into the debate but 'Proper' gear needs to comply with the product standard (not the install) and part of that is testing the battery OK Most if not all panel will dip the supply and measure the voltage as a means to do this check. ie also all the 12v peripherals should be able (if compliant) to handle this ripple voltage. I dont know texecom gear well or at all and not sure if the network errors are a log tool or just log 'noise'. Either way it shouldnt cause a problem in normal operation. If it is causing a problem (other than a disganostic log) then something is wrong.

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

Here's a crazy idea.... why not power down your knacked alarm ?

If you don't want it then get it killed. If you do want it then find someone to. We have a boat load of people and pyronix are to blame for this who do want a security system but spend more at Costa.

nonce ban ? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2022/04/06/TELEMMGLPICT000058725877_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhZJ9vnP3TZj6dX4F0Tnhrlt1EhdK4aiwcWMQPYeW9P0.jpeg?imwidth=680 they'd laugh out loud....

I wouldn't of thought a bulb unless halogen would get hot enough quixh enough

id say your puttin gthe magnet to the wrong side of the contact and you have a grade 3 door contact

Sorry I disagree- I've never had any reason to use an oscilloscope on an intruder alarm nor do I need a £500+ multi meter (it would only get lost or broken out in alarm land) Aged 17 or so I knew something like a 9600 required a power supply to run all 16 zones & multiple keypads & speakers Who would have guessed more than 30 years later I'd still be having conversations with people who don't understand the basics principles, Suitable current in day & alarm, suitable voltage at each device when running off the battery, if you've not got this you'll have problems Your alarm appear to have lots of problems I've got lots of alarms with very few problems, its funny old world isn't it ?

Well you came asking for help and your disregarding what you are told by people that work with this stuff every day. I have told you how to rule this out and some things to check, there are further things that need ruling out but it's not normal. To expand on MrH above, as a rule of thumb I would expect each power supply to have <~500mA quiescent per 7Ah battery to conform to BS EN; this is aside to your issue.

Hopefully nobody noticed but there have been a few upgrades on tsi. Mainly aiming for speed improvement on mobile mainly if anyone has seen a speed increase.

the nice rf module would be plugged in here. As i should it isnt so im assuming your not use nice rf remotes

Premiers have separate programmable volumes for chime and advisory tones

Unlikely, if weak WiFi it's not impossible, and remember it's a friend of yours, which you don't live with I say that because usually when you ask lots of questions and try and fault find what someone says , it's not always what they originally said, which misleads what the real problem with audio might be, weak WiFi can cause audio loss, and even a device elsewhere could potentially interfere with audio when WiFi weak, possibly it's a coincidence

Boom you got this...

Seems we all do/did them differently... Similar to 6 Under the washer like JW and only half round with the sheath left on but longer than the cores if that makes sense.

When the PSU is off there is no AC present the battery is DC it probably is coming from the PSU im not doubting it but my bet is that all of them give off AC noise

yeah dont use them anymore but when i did, strip in the normal way (leaving some insulation to twist tight) then wrap around a 2.5mm terminal driver, remove screw and washer and push through loop of cable making sure to keep so when it tightens it doesnt loosen the coil.

Bear in mind that switch mode psu add what looks like induced ac.id be interested to see what a new psu does. Mine is knacked cos I've overloaded it lots in testing.

Excellent

or try removing the ac power (pull fuse) for a bit and see if it continues when on battery only. Also measure your induced ac with the mains off to see the difference between the psu on and off

What's opposite it or near it It's time for pictures , don't worry if install is dodgy , so are mine But your saying when no one is near it right , from a distance

Exorcizo te, creatura salis, per Deum vivum, per Deum verum, per Deum sanctum, per Deum

Most external sirens are compatible with each other but using the same brand as the panel will mean the terminals are named the same and you may get better feature compatibility. Regarding PIR's they are the elements within the pyro. A quad has a better sensor and lens arrangement dividing the detection area into four elements that all need to trigger together. For a great explanation I always point to this video. Bear in mind it's only explaining a basic PIR not a Quad. You could buy sensors years ago with twin dual element pyro's side by side. So cheaper here then...

Kids of today! Blooming amateurs! Running cables while the floor is up is easy, hard wired is better than wireless for 101 reasons. Not that wireless doesnt have its place, if you had a flat or your renting, or its impossible to get a wire to where its needed wireless is fine. But in your case it sounds like whoever you got to quote is either lazy or stupid and you dont want either of those combinations installing stuff in your house

Bell on battery , but I am feeling nervous already

Although bell can be reconnected within a min or two of you skilled enough I would have let the old panel hand some how cut the plastic or something got the new back plates in and powered up may odd disconnect but it would have been quick 15min ringing you letting the kettle boil

This is the reason you use proper gear. Diy stuff can be disabled but what would you prefer an off switch? Or worse an off code. You have found out that compliant equipment does as it says.

Hi Sixwheeledbeast, Many thanks for the advice. I am more comfortable now I can forget the Scantronic option. I do not intend to try a DIY installation. I do intend to have the cabling in place myself. I took your advice that there is no such thing as cannot. Rather than trying to use the original cables for the three daisy chained sensors, I looked at covering two of the rooms from alternative accessable points. By coming from the loft I can cut through the first floor in cuboards to lay two new sensor positons, leaving just one of the three sensors on the original 6 core. The issue with my semi engineering brickwork was not how to break through them, that's already done. The issue is they seem to be Wi-Fi unfriendly. Sky mesh was a disaster for me. I feel more comfortable now that I can install a wired system with options to Wi-Fi extend if the need arises. Thank you once again.

No need to think, read manual , get engineer to make changes for silent set

Look at the cylinder there is an arrow pointer , needs to be pointing up, unless you magnets are to far away

Battery charging voltage on a non intelligent panel (which I assume this is) should be 13.69 - 13.75 v assuming normal ambient temp. Check charge current and charge voltage on load. Best way to test this is with a partially discharged battery and again when fully charged. I'd be concerned if load reading was below 13v and below 13.5 ish when fully charged An intelligent charge panel will ramp up voltage depending on charge state so harder to test

How did you test the battery?

If you can't turn if off with the keypad, your wasting your time with wifi Personally I'd remove the wifi card until you can control the alarm with the keypad

You want omit on part set?

Leave password blank ?

The first production of an Led was 1962

You need ? they all do a battery test, forget it man just install it and move on with life lol

For someone with all the kit and knowledge you seem to assume a lot, instead of diagnosing it. We may as well speak into the void at this point. Your repeating the same thing and clearly not reading or taking in what people are saying, your the one with the issue and looking for help...

As I understand it a a switch mode power supply switches on & off this is what I assume you are seeing on a scope ? Texecom has been around nearly 40 yr & turn over nearly 40 million, My stuff works, yours system despite your test equipment & qualifications doesn't ?

Me? I think there horrid things to work with- I had to ring risco the other week to find out how to toggle the channels to test a dualcom Beyond paying me to stand there in person & press buttons whilst swearing at the alarm until it works the only support I can offer is moral support.... @naeem7861 you can do it son ! The full manual is online, if you don't do alarms it probably makes more sense as I have a preconceived idea of how things should work & this is an Israeli product targeted at North America ?

Every possible measurement needed to commission and diagnose an intruder alarm can be done with multimeter If you have property large enough to need 5 expanders & lots of expensive test equipment I would assume some with your qualifications & talent could earn more more doing your own job & pay a proper alarm co. to provide a working complaint system rather faff around wasting time & money doing it poorly.

i think we will have to agree to disagree Al

News to me, the legal info is missing from each of the websites, google finds the info regardless This was only interesting bit of info for me- 4000 x £150 is £600k which is not a lot of money for running an arc ?? (yes cctv pays more, however something like a smartcom will pay less) I guess at - https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/11798207

everything should be encrypted especially in security unless i missed the sarcasm?

Probably the best thing to do is to get three quotes. I would advise that you pick three accredited companies either ssiab or NSI gold https://www.nsi.org.uk/ https://ssaib.org/ you can search for local companies with your postcode on these sites Any good company will be able to tailor the alarm system to your needs and will give advise on how to make it simple to use. Most companies will have their own preferred brand that they like to install, we could all start recommending different brands here but it would just confuse you if installers in your area dont use these brands and recommend something else. Once you have your quotes come back here for more advice if you need it

SUNTHORNES!! (made in Aldershot I think) Yes, used to service loads of them in the late 80's and 90's. I remember the BELL TEST button, which was really just a Normally Closed button that removed the power to the external sounder! No bell timer, had to fit a seperate PCB inside panel to time the bell to 20 minutes. The cybertone sounder drilled into the front of the panel which gave you three tones. A continuous whine when you tried to set the system with a zone in fault, a wheeee-wheeee-wheeee for setting and unsetting and a lower faster tone for alarm. You couldn't set any of the zones (with exception of Exit/Entry zone) as "entry route", instead we fitted relays inside the panel which was connected into the E/E sounder to short out the relevant zones during Entry and Exit time. The zone cards, each of which had a Green LED for "ON" (not isolated), Yellow for "Zone in alarm" and Red as a memory after an alarm activation. The really old ones,the isolate button on the front panel used to toggle the Green LED off and on, but it was updated so that the Green LED would come back on when the keyswitch was turned back to off. On the front was a keyswitch and a large piece of darkened plastic where you could see the LEDs of all the zone cards. There was also an expansion board where you could fit loads of zone boards and have up to about 30 zones. There was one of these fitted in Jabro Cash and Carry in Luton (is it still there? this is about 20 years ago now!!) before it was updated to a 9500! Wish I had a photo of the panel! (I don't know why, just memories I guess!) Matt (not from Vidionics anymore like my username says)