Rulland

Aico mains interlinked, one with radio base, aico 414 fitted somewhere where a cable can connect to intruder system, IE next to alarm panel, job done.

Who ya gonna call.......

If zone two is progged as time inhibited, and zone two is the garage door, then as soon as you open the garage door the alarm will go off, because it hasn't seen zone one open first. Any zones that are entry/exit will need to be progged as such, any zones that you need to walk past to get to the keypad, coming in either entry/exit door, will need to be progged as time inhibited. You can set the attributes for the doors to be 'final set' IE the system will set almost immediately after the door has been shut, instead of waiting for a timer.

I never give a guarantee that a 'pet immune' system will work. The only guaranteed way to make an intruder alarm work is to keep moving objects away from sensors that detect moving objects!. Place animals in an area that isn't covered by a pir, it's not rocket science tbh.

Whenever you change the resistance values in programming you have to exit engineers for the changes to take effect. Threw me when I was replacing a Galaxy, progged as 1k/1k (3k), but came up tamper until I exited engineers.

Not if the external sounder has a duff battery too. Paragon is quite an old panel, soooo.

Are you sure that 1234 is the user code?.

Enter the engineering menu using the engineer code, that you, apparently have, go to miscellaneous options 00, 3, and change it to not single button setting, simples. Be aware that all versions of Veritas have the option of locking the engineer code, if that option has been enabled by the original installer there is no easy way to reset the code to factory default.

As swb, menu 00, option 3, the old Veritas only have two miscellaneous options instead of the newer three, and these didn't include single button setting. You require the engineer code to adjust the setting for either on or off.

Hmm, a keypad is well, a keypad, slightly different to a parachute imho.

This is where a simple resistance check card can help to ensure your meter is doing what it's supposed to, and acclimatise you to using the meter correctly.

The led should go red when the mag is engaged, not green, green unlocked, red locked. The armature needs to be the right way round to use the 'hall' effect there is a dimple on the armature that needs to be closest to the electrical connection end on the mag for it to work correctly.

Tbh my **** was twitching a bit whilst doing the removals etc, it just didn't seem right, but heh ho, the powers that be must have done an ra, as al-yeti suggests, I have the paperwork in place to pacify my sphincter

Matt, i probably didn't explain correctly. Most flats had one standalone smoke in the living room, heat possibly, in kitchen and a communal smoke adjacent to front door with sounder, sometimes break glass. There was then smokes and bgs on communal landings. I removed all communal gear completely, so no detection etc on landings or in flats. Flats existing standalone stuff was modified to mains interlinked. Prior to these mods, all flats had to be made 1 hour fire rated, attics, risers, electrical enclosures, extract ducts, cable routes, anything between floors or walls that could allow fire to migrate.

That's basically what I've been removing, no protection in communal areas at all now. Interlinked installed instead.

I worked on a council program where communal fire alarms, such as you describe,were being removed due to total evac situations in the middle of the night, no7 comes home pissed and burns toast or whatever. They have now made the flats safe to stay, and installed stand alone mains interlinked-aico-as it happens into all properties, best bit is the majority of the communal systems were less than 10 years old. It's yet to be seen if the safe to stay approach will work in the event of a real fire scenario, human nature says try to get out not sit and await rescue services.

They did that in the early 1900's....

Seen this quite often on a site that is having building works/prone to sparks turning power on/off. As Mr H, Just a simple reset is required-hazard a guess at software glitch-possibly!.

Why mend it if it's never going to be used?.

Surely most of the force off a ladder against a wall is downwards, even with a 'heavyweight' engineer on them. Unless of course the ladder was at a silly angle.

Not a dig mate, just wandered why tbh.

Over and above the call of duty possibly for a forum, phone calls etc, just saying-my take only, any views anyone?.

Killjoy.

As James, what goes in should come out.