AdrianMealing

So did the keypads perform correctly on the site at the correct speed without issues? Are you taking them out purely because of the contrast issues? Your own issue, or the customers as well? I am genuinely interested as this is not the experience we have had to date. TBH I don't have an issue with the contrast on mine, phone recording or not, they are just a bit darker but easily legible. In my opinion more legible than the green screens.

Your version of Ricochet monitor is incorrect. V2.18.2.2 was released in 2014!!! You need V2.18.6 for V4 panels, wireless keypad and the latest receivers. LINK HERE Regarding the screen, first time anybody has not liked it, seriously, no other feedback regarding the colour or size. Contrast yes, BUT this has an enormous impact on battery life, hence why there is no adjustment. And generally thi is understood and accepted. Can you show an example of the slow garbled screens? Did you see the video I posted?

Me too?

Don't understand it, I have one here right in front of me, works a treat exactly same speed and response as a wired one. Back light i accept the comment, although i don't see the issue personally. IMG_1460[2].MOV

OK and if you disconnect one wireless one then use the remaining wireless one how does it respond? as expected or too slow to use? Still have garbled messages?

I know I am asking the obvious, but I assume you defaulted the panel when powered up? and what do you mean by mismatch of information? i assume you have wired and wireless keypads next to each other and are watching the display? Wireless keypads addressed correctly? Disconnect the wired keypad and delete one wireless keypad, confrim devices, how does the remaining wireless keypad react, is it like a wired keypad or slow to respond?

On Ricochet Monitor, are the keypads showing as direct connection or hopping I know its a short distance but if you have all the devices on a bench close to each other this can cause issues. The wait before arming is to do with the DT's being woken up, I suspect again issues with devices being too close together, AND maybe you have not allowed a proper mesh to establish before trying to arm. This again can cause issues. Try separating all the devices by a greater distance, putting the expander in tamper and allowing the mesh to rebuild. Wait at least 15 minutes. Just so you know, wireless keypads are as responsive as wired ones when they are directly communicating with the expander. When they are hopping through another device this will slow down the communication and they basically act as an arming station only. Let us know how it goes.

Yes I am

I write the manuals, please tell me what's missing from your perspective? ASFAIK nothing is missing.

This is the key to it

SmartKeys are learned through the User Menu not the menu for the devices. SWB has answered the others

Hi Matt, The manual you need is on the same CD that the software is on. Comes in the box with all the panels.

Agree with all that, one of the biggest issues over the last few years has been **** cable, it's been mentioned before but a lot of people don't know how to turn a meter on let alone use one. Poor quality cable causes all sorts of issues for many manufacturers, poor quality installations are usually blamed on the gear used, especially when in front of the punter. I've had to have a few quiet words with several company owners when their so called engineers have blamed our kit on their **** install and lack of knowledge. Does my head in when we get called to a site as the cause of the problem, only to find it's got feck all to do with us.

I'd agree, the fact that over 95% of our returns are no fault found backs this up. Been like it for years, every job I have had it's been pretty much the same.

Still is, and yes ffs is the correct answer

Only if the local force insists on that, otherwise single PA until false activations cause the URN to be removed, then it will need to be confirmed. Two zones is one option, there are others as detailed in the relevant documentation.

All this will change with V4, and to be fair the Android issue has nothing to do with this thread and is being looked at.

V4 is undergoing extensive testing as we speak. I cannot put a firm date on release as we may need to fix anything found to be broken during testing. I would anticipate sometime in September looking at the current test schedule.

@homesecure you generate the encryption key (128bit AES) in the app, and then enable it and enter it into an engineers menu on the keypad. It can only be done via the keypad and not through Wintex. The documentation that came with the panel details the procedure for doing this. In our next version of the app, and with V4 panel firmware all of this will be automated, and enabled as standard. It will also not be necessary to open ports on the router as we have another method now for establishing the connection. It will also be possible to flash the panel to V4 to enable the new methods. The security for the communications in V4 are more than just the encryption key used in V3. Regarding the initial article, the use of wireshark to sniff data on the network only actually works IF you are on the same network. So our point in our response about network security is certainly valid, and unless the hacker is already on your network wireshark is not going to show anything.

Encryption was added to V3.01 firmware, released Feb 2016, which can be used on all Premier Elite panels. Please see the details of the release HERE

That was my point, self cert is the norm in the UK, people believe what is said, but clearly some product just doesn't meet the requirements of the standards manufacturers claim compliance with.

When you say graded do you mean independently tested against EN standards or self certified? massive difference in my opinion.

Contact tech support, tell them i sent you and ask for a jam detector, not available to purchase but easy to use on a site with potential jamming issues. The LED stays on if jamming is detected. Goes off when there is no jamming.

Any reason the customer did not alert you to the low battery warnings? Also be interested if changing all the batteries solves the issue. I had a similar experience on my own house alarm, nothing to do with batteries in the end, it was a new mobile phone mast being installed close to the house, and commissioned, obviously overpowered, cleared after a couple of hours not had a problem since. I have a modified PIR I can use to detect jamming, nothing at the back of the house, in constant jam at the front.

Renovating my kitchen at the moment and needed a new pair of workboots, these are the ones i bought, comfy as hell http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Workwear+%26+Safety/d70/Safety+Boots/sd3246/Scruffs+Switchback+Nubuck+Safety+Boots/p27960