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norman
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Everything posted by norman
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https://www.acornfiresecurity.com/engineer-fire-alarm-panel-fap-key-box?gclid=CjwKCAjwnK36BRBVEiwAsMT8WHr2ykwBkcRUVHzJF-hkQ7_YC5HTX9E1Ue9AHTIDRmbqxW1zUadHvBoCbTgQAvD_BwE https://www.firedetectionshop.co.uk/fire-alarm-test-keys./fire-alarm-panel-keys/You can buy sets of the most common keys iirc.Yeah, it's still a Bentley 2/4The first panel I fitted back in the late 80's was one of these, the bell will most likely have been built up by the company who fitted the system.Personally I would only drop the power to the detectors. I'm not sure with these panels but there will most probably be an output that resets on arm/set or something similar (pulse output perhaps?) that you can programme to drop the power momentarily on setting. Worst case, you cold wire in a small unobtrusive switch to interrupt the 12v and mount it through the casing at the bottom or something.Is there a reset switch on the panel? they need the power dropping off to reset the led iirc.YupYup, but to clarify for those who may be confused... the device battery terminals, not the battery terminals...Like a supreme athlete my exit plan was well and truly under way by the time I was 35!I agree with PJ but as a subby I would leave a spare pair twisted together in the device if available.In the unlikely event that he replies please don't post codes on the forum. Thanks in advanceHoneywell G4 Scantronic 9651 Honeywell G2Would you want to work form a company who defrauded the government anyway?You could trial it with nitrous. *this may or may not kill you.Also looking for a replacement PCB for my VM1 phone if anyone has one...You weren't.I thought it looked a bit Minecraft.I haven't seen one for a few years, but I had a play with them when they first came out and I thought they were shit.
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