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The 99iii mate, supposed to be one of their top of the range Pro meters. (No before anyone asks, that doesn't mean prostitute Lol).

Yeah I know that feeling Peter, I had my window put through when on site a few years back. My Fluke & a few other bits went, the Fluke was the item most missed.

Been using an AVO 8037 for years but it's getting on a bit like me & apparently phased out now so if it stops working then no parts available. An Isotech 99iii which seems to do all the AVO does and more, came up for silly money. I was just wondering if anyone had an opinion on them, probably a bit late to ask once I'd bought it but hey ho. Not that sure about modern Fluke meters, always seems to be loads selling used on eBay.

My apologies OP: Looking at the engineer manual, this system does allow for testing tampers during walk test. Whenever a tamper is activated a T should come up at the side of the zone number you've tested.

Hey buddy: Not sure about that one, apparently been around a long time. RS sell them for pretty hefty prices but no reviews.

Just wondering: Anyone using them or got any views on them from past experience ?

1) Put the system in day mode. 2) Remove mains power. 3) Remove lid. 4) Enter code to silence internal sounder. 5) While in day mode, disconnect battery. 6) Re - connect battery & Re - fit lid securely. 7) Re - connect mains power. 8) Enter user code to re - set the system and silence the alarm. Should hopefully now work. Warning: When you remove all power, the outside siren Will sound. Re what Al said earlier: He's totally correct, engineer mode shouldn't effect the tamper.

Hi Pete: Thanks for the update, that seems to be the way things are going nowadays. Manufacturers not putting manuals in with things, you then have to hunt for them online to download. Maybe they think it's more eco friendly.

Aye: 16 listed under London.

Hi: If you check out the UK security installer listings, there are 16 listed in London. One of them should be able to sort it for you.

As SWB has said, possibly it is Engineer reset only but that's far from being a certainty. A lot of engineers don't set that option to engineer only. You don't give the area of country you live, but if you look at our installer list then you may find someone in your area to look at your system. They'll be in a better position to give you advice when they have the panel in front of them.

First thing to do is make sure that the control panel cover is securely re - fitted before entering the code, if the alarm went off when you had a power cut then 10-1 the battery in the panel is faulty and that's why the tamper won't re - set.

Hi: Your installer would have changed the engineer code when installing the panel, this is to stop unauthorised changes, your only option will be to get another engineer to default and re program the panel for you. For security reasons we Never give out default details or codes. Out of interest: Had you replaced the panel lid before trying to re set the alarm ?.

Hi Pete: Your welcome, good luck with finding the faulty item. The stop arm on tamper is basically saying, Hey someone tried to play about with your alarm and Hopefully forcing you to check as you've done or call an Engineer. If it was just a little light on the panel saying tamper, probably nobody would bother and their properties would be left vulnerable to attack. Good luck with installing the new system, please come back and let us know how it goes or if you have any questions. Andy.

You seem to have a very jaundiced view of diye'rs. Trust me they're not all the same. But whatever the op decides to do is up to him. He asked for information / advice and was given it.

Oh Gawd these illiterate morons are starting up again, wonderful. Haven't had anything like that for months now, was hoping that maybe they'd all been killed off.

Sorry OP, just re-read your post: If you didn't completely power down the system (battery and mains) before removing the detectors, you may have blown an internal fuse as well.

Hi: The battery you need to replace is in the control panel, on the connections in the panel are 2 marked Tamp. Remove the wires from those connections and fit a wire link to the terminals. Now close the lid and try setting, if it sets now the problem is the tamper circuit. If not then it looks like new panel time. Please replace the battery first though. If the problem is in the circuit, you'll need a multimeter and patience to trace the problem.

People: The op asked for alternatives to soldered and shrunk cable joints & that's exactly what I gave him, no more & no less. If that offends some people's sensibilities then so be it. As far as I'm concerned that's it, end of story. To carry the the subject on won't serve any useful purpose.

As I already said, soldered & shrunk is the best way to go and what I prefer, but I've also seen badly made soldered connections that over a period of time have gone high resistance. It doesn't matter whether it's a soldered or crimped joint, if it's not done properly then it's going to cause problems eventually.

Sorry fella: Never used twist & tape, I've never owned a horse or Stetson. By the way, the Longman dictionary definition of a blagger is someone who lies cleverly to get what they want. Don't appreciate that. I don't need to lie to people, I tell people what I think whether it pleases or offends.

Wasn't actually talking about crimps in passives (Don't think I've ever seen someone do that), where I've seen red butt connectors being used is inside Junction boxes and control panels. Wouldn't call someone using cutters or pliers on crimps an engineer to be honest, I'm a great believer in using the right tool for the job especially with crimps. You can also get high resistance joints with soldered connections if not done properly & when hidden inside heat shrink, they can be a total pig to find.

Yes but every time I've seen them used, they weren't actually the connection. The connection twisted & folded was placed inside one end of the connector more as an insulator, yes they were crimped in place but to hold them in place. Makes a better insulator than tape.

No argument from me, my preferred way wherever possible. Why would using a butt connector, be asking for high resistance issues ?.