hpotter

IR cameras? try leaving one disconnected in case psu probs as oxo suggests. might be one cam in particular taking more than the rest, or psu can no longer keep up.

I think what you'll find is you've changed your 4 digit code and it's within the 7 digits you are pressing to set/unset your system. Without defaulting (or getting an engineer) try and set system 1 digit at a time and as soon as it starts bleeping you'll know it was the previous 4 digits (might be worth writing them down before starting). Those last 4 digits will be your new code!

Well done that man. Makes sense if your in the industry for the long haul. Unfortunately alarms & customers have a habit of needing attention when inconvenient to the engineer. Truely, this is not an industry that is easy to succeed in - despite (n heavens knows how many think 1000 maint @

QFA. Also I note from his website a comparison chart of the Yale v ADT & Chubb etc. This does lead one to believe confusion will arrise (deliberately, or is that cynical). How can you compare a product designed to be installed by the homeowner themselves with a prof installed, prof engineered, fully risk assesed etc etc. I have no problem with someone's opinion differing from mine , (and I'll match my 30+ years fitting/servicing all sorts of systems against anyones 8mths fitting 1 type and no servicing), but I do object to the "not everyone can afford" bit being justified by 86 yro ladies not being confident climbing up ladders. but then thats my opinion which I'm entitled to too.

When we fit an alarm it comes with guarantees. For example : If the equipment fails to perform, we are liable (& insured for that risk). If we fit/site the eqpt incorrectly, we are liable (& insured for that risk). If the customer calls at 3am xmas day, someone will answer the phone and if need be go to site at 3am xmas day cos among other things local authority will arrange for someone else to go at 3am xmas day and invoice customer who inturn will look to us for reimbursment of authority fee + money back on alarm etc. Your 1st post says it all: fitted 80 in 8mths. How many will last 8 years (even a couple of years)? or much beyond the 12mth guarantee the manufacturer gave you. Have you thought about fastdoubleglazing. (though I understand that is now covered by document L of the building regs, whole different story) Toot is toot and cant be excused.

New bags & filters for the hoover always much appreciated, unless of course you really love her - then its a Dyson* * there's one left at woolies - the cleaner's using it at the mo.

Amazon are pretty fast with their deliveries.............

<15 means less than fifteen posts. In otherwords you need to make 15 posts before the system allows you to view profiles etc.

Well thats proves sounder ok. Check on panel pcb. There will be a two or three fuses. From memory, think 1 for battery (1.6A), 1 for aux 12v (1A), and 1 for bell/strobe (1A). With all power off (mains & battery - sounder goes), gently prise out each fuse in turn and pinch together the lugs of the fuse holder (1pair per fuse) and then put fuse back in (dont mix up fuses). Re-connect battery, shut lid then re-appy mains. Trigger alarm. If no joy, I reckon you need a new panel.

Hmm. Well if sounder ok when 12+ taken out, as stated before, SAB driving it not the panel. With the 12v +ve in place, try taking the wire in the panel out of the trigger and touching it on 0v.

When you operate the bellbox tamper the SAB is powering the sounder locally. When you trigger the alarm, the panel is suppling the power. As Antinode says use meter to check panel output on trigger. The hold off voltage might be enough to prevent sounder going & keep Nicad in SAB charged, but panel might not be able to provide enough current to drive the sounder. How old is the panel battery? Look under keyswitch assembly to see if there is any scorch marks on pcb, esp near a 47ohm 1/2 watt resistor. If yes (as I suspect) change battery.