MrHappy

Don't think it was ADE but a co's sent a mail shot to every house in the UK (1995ish) as there sounder(s) had started fires

so they didn't buy any thing decent...

another with a misspent youth... if only Angus was here with his takes of foiling the hall mirror

I recall building then up from- ADE, Elmdene or Aritech Bell modules Kinetic Siren Kinetic Strobe Sometime with Dragon? Anti foam modules or CQR Foam pendent The 1st complete box I recall is CQR interga, 1st one we used was a CQR Cequra

unless its been under cover or better still inside its gonna be f'ked, they not made 'em for 17 yrs or more, we last bought the horizontal type in 1994 ish

personally I'd ditch the old controls & put a hybrid euro in. press II & see status of the alarm. If they can afford extensions they can afford some proper controls

Just ensure the alarm is audible from outside the final door normally achieved by using =<£5 extension speaker. Using final exit to set, alarm would go silent when set ?

interesting back story

they have off days-

Saw an RKPX on the wall today, it looks cutting edge..... for 1989 ?

About 20yrs ago I was offered one as sample, I declined.... A "new old stock" one will appear on fleabay, personally you'd be better off replacing with something decent

I do twitter for work, Its generated 2 leads but no business I'm aware of

err.. roughly from behind ?

I'd guess he's no using iD Zems, jut making the system EOL ?

Over the years I've bodged loads of stuff together to get clients out of a fix, In the long term your no better thought of, in fact your more likely to be seen as awkward for saying no when the ideas get too dangerous & dumb If a 3 month old system is notorious for FA it must be completely unfit for purpose, I'm guessing vesda is what the building should have.

err... rather than bodging something onto the shit fire alarm wouldn't addressing the problem of false alarms be easier?

you googler....

we used to hold a NICEIC Domestic badge paper certs used to have tick box & state no. of devices, Looking at Easycert via VPN I can't see any mention of smokes on Install or inspection cert?

Each battery powered smoke alarm has its own sounder, should it detect a fire it makes a noise A 12v intruder alarm has the sounder separate from the detection device, combustible cables means the cable or the fuse may be knacked before fire is detected or announced

When you have a periodic inspection done on your domestic electrics the no. of smoke detectors are stated on the cert, Mains powered with 9v battery & 12v alarm detectors are the same price, however 6243Y is dearer than alarm cable.... I'd choose battery only smoke alarms over 12v ones on an burglar alarm,

A proper fire alarm has fire fire resistant cabling Mains interlinked has a battery in each device, An intruder alarm has combustible cable & a sounder separate from the sensor, I think its bad idea to use an intruder alarm for life safety

Only a proper fire alarm or interlinked smokes met with building regs, If you want smokes on intruder alarm I buy Texecom ones however I have used S65 with the relay base in the past

I assume theirs a good margin in it as they all have telesales staff * decent looking premises ?

A competent alarm monkey may have found this this by comparing the commissioning readings against whats measured It may be a rumour but ACT Meters claimed they demo'd their "check mate radio meter" to the RAF & used it on an Aircraft which found a number of circuit faults which the RAF tech people assumed was a fault with the check mate but was later confirmed to be an issue with the aircraft Tried post this on an Iphone yesterday but safari/TSI doesn't work for me ? My Sub called yesterday am after an FA at 05:30, they have fully comp maintenance so the issue was resolved with £28.00+vat of parts fitted by noon & there away in Australia until February

Normally a competent alarm engineer would measure the circuits, low Ohms between each pair of cables, high Ohms between cables which ain't paired. With the system running on battery power only, measure the voltage at each device to ensure it high enough. Full set the system & check the device operates as intended, If all fine I would swap the circuits with another zone & place the viper circuit on soak test. You can do all this yourself or just find a competent alarm co. to look after your system.....