MrHappy

If you can't turn if off with the keypad, your wasting your time with wifi Personally I'd remove the wifi card until you can control the alarm with the keypad

sorry can't provide other people's copyrighted software, I'd assume the average alarm installer would try the default codes on anything which fails to unset with the known code. If that did not work attempt to fully default the controls...

almost 20 years since the abacus retired ? & something like 35 years since it hit the market.... seen many Ford Orion's in daily use.....

outside of my area of expertise.... at £1200+vat I haven't got one

testifire is dearer still

I have a corded & also a cordless one I never knew how much a "hairdryer on stick" costs

never took one apart, shocked to see how dear they are, I'd wait to for ebay/ facebook stolen from their former employer set to become available....

I can't think of any one local to Skipton who posts on TSI Email GJD & see if they have a local chap

Bag o' shit....

no, you need to connect to the panel as a hotspot or manually enter details.... however certain charters say ~.# or _ain't available for the alarm keypad

You may be able to change the setting on the alarm by pressing buttons, Which button you press depend on which alarm it is....

appears to be the sorta door you'd see on porta unit ?

don't use it.... is the serial number for a visonic or an adt app ?

what shite are you buying...

There'sno. of different products the G3 one may need different resistors than the book says to make 'em work

Deltabell E requires nothing apart from a negative link

hiys

I believe different frequency prevents the use of normal visonic devices

I had also had a glass place, Large workshop no detection 9448 or similar in an office block, equally crap fire alarm... Thomas Higgins letter than ccj for a few hundred quid of work (iirc)

Just don't... the basic stuff is the hardest because there's no proper logs or diagnostics, Something like a euro mini would say something like Fuse Failure 100 31/05/24 11:30, Silenced by user 1 31/05/24 11:33 You then replace the fuse, note the landing sensor does not light up, look in the loft to find a rat has chewed the wire or whatever Alarms are a massive pain the balls, don't get involved.... I regret getting involved In the words of Zammo Maguire - Just say no...

don't get involved in another one,.... When purchasing a house they or their solicitor should have the common sense to have the vendor declare the alarm working or not, ideally providing a service report dated within the last 12 month. Control, cable or device - Controls, does the controls have 12 volts on the aux supply ? (check fuse?) Device, does the device have 12 volts present to power it Cable, does the power cable have low ohms when made into pair. same for tamper & 12hr circuit. & high ohms between every other pair ? Why do I say don't get involved ? Who do you think there are going to ring on an evening or weekend when there alarm won't set, bleeps too much, does not bleep when it should bleep..... YOU Find a local proper alarm co. or tell the end user to find one

Apart form the 5 csl devices I have in place

don't get involved in alarms is best advice I can offer... do you have 12v dc at every pir, have you checked the fuse...

I just reposted what I had seen elsewhere, however - I never knew they had bought Chiron, however I can't think of anyone who used Chiron...

appeasr the alterative to redcare might just be.... redcare ? https://www.addsecuregroup.com/newsroom/addsecure-enters-the-uk-alarm-signalling-market-to-continue-bt-redcare-services/