PeterJames

It has to connect to the cloud first though. When its first powered up it doesnt know what day of the week it is let alone the right time. A bit like you when your alarm clock goes off on a Thursday morning after youve been down the pub the night before for pool night

Red light= normally a fuse blown, or no battery connected. Disconnect everything at the PSU if it still shows red then you know its not any of the wiring causing the PSU issue. Check the backup battery. Im guessing from the state of thos connections its not been under a service agreement so the battery is probably over 5 years old and may be pulling the psu down

When you completely down-power It remembers the codes zone settings ect in the NVM. But it wont keep the clock going while its down powered, that will default to watchdog

Word of warning with shear locks alignment is critical any play on the door forget it, use lock tight on the screws unless you want to keep going back and adjusting it, lastly pay close attention to the instructions, they come with different springs for a reason. Surface mounted shearlocks need the right springs, (see above) but generally wont need high level carpentry skills, mortice is a different story altogether. Personally Id sub fitting a mortice shearlock to a locksmith they will do a neater job of fitting it and getting it spot on, just put the wires in the holes is my advice especially as you have never done one before. https://www.aldridgesecurity.co.uk/adams-0003-adams-rite-1354-0100-mortice-shear-magnet.html Thats where our locksmith gets his

just snip them individually that way you will know what colour goes where when you put it back/replace it. No need to down power completely just be aware the alarm will tamper

It puts more load on the psu it pulls more current than the psu is designed to provide, and eventually burns out the charging circuit

Im glad you didnt call it tape of colour

You could maybe fit a morticed shear mag, or a shoot bolt. But I would probably go with Steves idea and fit an external mag on the outside and use star screws or anti tamper screw heads to prevent someone unscrewing it or a architectural mag https://www.cdvi.co.uk/products/categories/magnetic-architectural-handles/

did you look in this box?

19vac normally

Its likely one of the diodes has blown, sometimes you can tell which one because the diode splits or looks wet, other than that you would have to desolder each one and measure it. Also look closely at the board both sides you may have burnt a track. Burning smell is another big give away that something has blown

Reversing the polarity may have damaged it, it probably at least discharged the battery. Down power completely for 5 mins then power it back up. Or down power it leave it to charge for a while then power it up

Does it have a day/night varistor sensor ? It may only flash when its dark to save power during the daytime. Where is the solar panel I cant see it in the picture. The normal (non solar powered) leds with 2 AA batteries normally last a couple of years so long as the day night sensor is out.

QFA they will charge to sort it out, but like most good companies they will have a solution

The red light is normal the tamper light could be anything, every circuit has a 24hr alarm circuit called tamper, if someone tampers with the alarm while its unset the alarm activates to warn the owner that someone is tampering with it. Putting the wrong code in the alarm several times could also cause tamper. As SWB says its difficult to tell you what the cause or fix is without more info and knowing your technical ability we are alarm monkeys not magicians

I stand corrected the GD520 has 16 onboard zones its the old Gal Microtec the only has rio inputs. Its still looking for eols though and have you correctly set the keypad id

As I remember there are no zones on a 520 only outputs. and theyre all looking for eol not shorts

We have a used A3 Lexmark for printing plans I picked up for £40.00 on marketplace

Brother here, I decided my printer hunt by looking at the copy consumables. Which are much cheaper than the originals, and seem to be better in many ways too. Many printer manufacturers have cottoned on that their consumables are copied and they have tried to make it harder each time they produce a new model. Now Im not saying that the latest Brother printers have not done this, Im just saying if you want to keep your consumable costs down its a sensible thing to checkout.

the problem with an app is you have to unlock phone open the app press the button its a bit of a kerfuffle

Looks like there are two receivers FAAC one and the Nice onboard one. The Nice ones are rolling code so have to be programmed to the controller which means an engineer has to attend site plug in a keypad and program them. Not sure about the FAAC receiver could be rolling code or a standard receiver. The Nice rolling code fobs are not cheap but they are more secure than a standard fob as they are not easily cloned.

I didnt know that. Still tat though Oh dear, the internet is an oracle of knowledge but sometimes the internet takes people down a path that leads to a much bigger problem than the original. Do someone a favour and go back to wherever it was that advised you to default the user and installer codes and let people know it may not work out as desired, it may just stop someone else having the same problem as you now find yourself in. If the default installer code is not working its probably a different ADT own default installer code, all you can do now is call ADT and take out a contract, or swap it for something that you have control over.

It was expensive but it was always one way wireless tat. If you have defaulted the panel completely (and it sounds like you have) then the factory engineer code will work. You just need to reprogram it now.