PeterJames

Id try a power cycle

Alarms are designed to warn you if something is tampered with, and cutting wires can resut in tears. It sounds like the engineer fully decommissioned the system, but we cant tell 100% without looking for ourselves, or speaking with the chap that did it. My gut says you're probably okay to cut the wires, but please dont blame me if my gut is wrong.

Hi Yes to all your questions re the kit and Texe. The 800 is quite an old panel and long obsolete now. there are varios outputs on the panel itself I doubt you will get anything useful from the serial that panel predates SIA and only sent pin outs, but you can program a zone as a keyswitch to arm disarm it. I dont install Texe as a rule but I do know that the premier does talk to a specific home automation system but I cant remember what it is. Personally I use home assistant and a input output module from my alarm panel is connected to my server via ESP 32. But I only use it to switch my lights on and off etc no more than that. The panel I use comes with its own app which is probably a more secure and reliable way to notify me when the alarm has activated etc

First question would be whats the risk, theft attractive stock or property, area, etc etc. Second question value of contents if you were burgled how much would it cost to start again. Third question what does you insurer want? Read the small print Fourth would be site history have you been burgled before. Lastly what sort of physical security. This would give enough info to advise what you need. However, the difference between professional installers and diy is miles apart. Its a bit like going to a barber and cutting your own hair, If you dont want to look like Arthur Scargill then its best to go to the barbers. Professional installers will do a much better job, its unlikely to activate falsely, and more importantly it will work if you have a burglary. CCTV wise There are a lot of very good DIY systems out there but it is a bloody minefield, a pro should know the latest systems and design the system to your requirements. If you have no idea what BLC or HLC stands for then its better to get a pro in. Dahua and Hik are the main two Chinese brands and cant be beaten by anything none Chinese.

In theory the bell should only sound for 20 minutes and then stop. I would not recommend leaving it indefinitely though these things have a habit of going wrong at the least convenient time. That said I would recommend removing it all at the same time, if it hasnt been serviced in a while ho knows what it may or may not do

Agreed most of the DIY stuff is not very good but it depends on wether the the type of burglar you are likely to get is not very good too. If you are only likely to be targeted by smackheads then DIY is probably fine so long as you walk test it regularly. If you have stuff worth stealing then you should be looking for something a bit better.

hi and welcome

If its working okay then leave it, if it is the charging circuit on its way out it will get worse, change the panel then

James represents NSI installers (Other accreditations are available) on the board of BSIA. I spoke with my inspectorate during our biannual audit in October and he also confirmed that Cyber essentials is currently optional for installers. When it first came out I spoke with a few IT companies who wanted me to use clouds and windows, didnt seem very secure to me.

It could be that the transformer/ charging circuit is on its way out, how many years between battery changes if your old battery was over 5 years old it may have been pulling the charging circuit down for some time

Dont worry about close mains, so long as you're not running in the same containment crossing paths is fine. So no real need for screened but if you use it only ground it one end. Rads cookers stuff like that wont heat up quick enough. Quad element with white light lenses is unlikely to trigger a fa from headlights from windows. Open fires log burners will cause false alarms. Some furniture such as glass coffee tables will heat up quick enough on hot sunny days and can cause false alarms. It depends on which way the room faces etc. Animals will cause fa's unless you use pet friendly detectors, But Im just repeating what everyone else is saying. To be fair though false alarms are rare nowadays though the detector technology is so much better than it was 10 or even 5 years ago.

It could be that the bell battery is dead, its very rare though most of the public posts we get here are about alarms sounding when their power is turned off. Rather than a hammer I would advise a screwdriver and just disconnect the battery, the bell box is a deterrent there has been a marked rise in crime recently and I dont see a sign of it slowing down.

yes strip enough to go around the screw at least once always wrap it clockwise so the wire doesnt come unraveled as you do the screw up

When the PSU is off there is no AC present the battery is DC it probably is coming from the PSU im not doubting it but my bet is that all of them give off AC noise

Ive just checked the ac noise on our demo panel in the training room and thats 32v, that panel hasnt seen much action at all, mostly used for testing different programming scenarios. It has a couple of wired contacts and a wired detector the old style keypad a GSM/Wifi card and some wireless stuff on it. I am wondering if its a trait of the switch mode PSU

I wouldnt assume anything with an old system, the panel battery is most likely no good, but thats not to say the same for the external sounder battery. We get many people come here because their external sound sounds in a power cut. Thats because the panel battery is no good but the sounder battery is in pristine condition. The XM were a good panel and there are still a fair few of them out there in good servicable condition. Its likely the panel has locked up (probably due to the panel battery no good) If you down power it the external sounder could start sounding.

You could try an ACT1313 https://www.actmeters.co.uk/alarm-troubleshooting/1313-12v-spike-suppressor

We have had a few of these sounders start coming up with problems, usually after a battery change. Its quite annoying as customers dont want to pay for the battery replacement and the sounder replacement. I do understand why but it means we are left with Visonic battery that we may not use and theyre not cheap. The early wireless systems were rubbish, the Visonic, Gardtec, and Pyronix, offerings were better, but not by much. Im not a big fan of wireless but the wireless stuff thats out there now is so much better.

You can have the lights on all the time, or on proximity. I have an RKP on my landing I would have noticed if it kept illuminating. I wouldnt know if my other RKP's illuminated intermittently as the only time I go to them is when im coming or going .

So today I managed to work out the puzzle of opening one. I am converting it to 24vDC ordered a 24v heat element, the existing fan seems to work on 24v Ill let you know if Ive saved £600 (parts inc psu cost about £25)

what 3 words to help the sat nav

And the smaller wireless panel comes with WiFi as standard in a kit

Never heard of Serage so your probably right

Im fairly certain Hik does play back more than 1 camera, when in playback just add more cameras Dahua definately does do it I have just tried it.

if its a high pitched beep check your smoke detector batteries alos check the drawers and cupboards for one that was taken down and forgotten about. Oh and as SWB says get the alarm serviced before its too late !