PeterJames

If someone else is able to change the programming then they cant prove they didnt. If its locked then they can prove they didnt.

Nothing is produced forever, sooner or later something better comes along and its not cost effective to keep making parts for the older kit. Decent manufactures do make stuff backward compatible though. Im not so sure they would be fine for the average private household, they advertise themselves with the name on the bell so anyone clever enough could just buy one bit of circumventing kit and go around looking for houses with Yale alarms knowing that the owner has a false sense of security. But they are cheaper than a dog, which can also be circumvented with drugged meat

If you never lock it then lose it to another company its that much harder for them to prove it was never programmed correctly in the first place. Which was my point.

to me!

So long as you get a written cancellation the contract with the customer has ended along with any obligations you may have. If the customer decides to use a non accredited /uninsured installer it would most likely cancel their insurance anyway. Most insurers will only accept a system under an accredited company maintenance contract. If the insurance co hasnt stated this then the insurance is not reliant on the intruder system in the first place. I cant speak for SSAIB but one of the first things my NSI auditor checks is that I have my £10mil Efficacy insurance, therefore in the unlikely event that the customer goes with an accredited installer that turns out not to be insured, then the company owner will be in trouble not the incumbent. IMO by locking the panel you open yourself up-to being sued if there is a fail to operate. If the panel is still locked this proves that nobody else has tampered with the programming since you installed it, Much harder to dispute, but thats why we have insurance.

I do get that the programing of the system is the intellectual property of the installer. But once the system has been taken on by another, legally the incumbent has released all responsibility as the contract between the incumbent and the customer has ended. Not to mention that they have no control of what any incoming party does to the system theron. In same way that when we take over a system we will re-program and walk test it, as we are taking on the responsibility. There is no way that an incumbent can be held responsible for a fail to operate if its under a service contract with someone else and any court of law would understand that.

They should be able to reset it unless its locked. Most good companies dont lock the engineer codes, there is little point in burning bridges.

That is quite bizarre panels have a Non Volatile Memory (NVM) so they normally dont lose their programming when the power is completely lost. It could be that the default codes process was activated when you powered the system back up. Not sure what the default code for the powermax would be but its normally something like 1234, 4567, 7890, 0123, 2222, ect you could run through each one to see if any of them work. Keep your fob to hand because two many wrong codes will cause tampers

We should just stop stereotyping by the colour of each others skin and just treat people how we would want to be treated, it would solve a lot of problems

I agree with Elon, we take racism too far the wrong way. Everyone should be treated equally, and not by the colour of their skin, sexual preference or religion. You get good and bad people in all races religions and sexual preferences. Treating people favourably or unfairly because they are in some way a minority is just racist or fascist even. The other fooking woke term I hate is "people of colour" if thats not a racist term I dont know what is. When the term "people of colour" is used what they mean is, everyone that is not white. I get that minorities have been treated badly in the past but its never gonna change all the while people keep banging on about skin colours instead of treating each other like the same fooking race. Dont get me wrong, I love people, most are great, but there are so many people who over step trying to do the right thing because they are too stupid to realise that they dont have to make up for the milk that was spilt by their ancestors, they just have to be careful not to spill any more of it.

Surely thats not his real hair who is he trying to kid

Everyone assumes G3 is better, in reality its just far more sensitive. G3 is a difficult one to get right for seasoned pro's. Anyone that really needs G3 would have it installed professionally, its usually an insurance requirement, or in our case an MOD site. If you're going down the DIY route its likely that the type of burglar your likely to get is unlikely to be able to circumvent a G1 system.

Do you have the engineers code?

Green is probably V+ the yellow and black will be the circuit. If the detector powers up when you put the green in V+ leave it for a few mins its normal for a detector to work out its surroundings when first powered, if the led stays on you know why it was dissed. you can swap it with most any detector so long as it has six wire ie a separate tamper and alarm circuit

@Alan12 You sound old enough to have learned many life lessons, but unfortunately taking advice from someone with experience isnt one of them. I dont think anyone here is trying to drum up business. My business mostly deals with commercial and public sector contracts, we do have some domestic but not a great deal. I would not be interested in taking on a 30 year old domestic Scantronic panel contract. Most here would be the same we all have plenty of work, this is one industry where you may struggle to find someone that will take it on. It was clear from you first post you are not a DIY installer you inherited the system and decided to try and fix it yourself. If you were a DIY installer you would have installed it yourself and had the manual already, and you would know what to do. Most DIY installers come here because they dont understand something in the manual or they want clarification on something or they want advice on placement etc. Alarm systems are made in such a way that they cannot be easily compromised. The side effects of this is that when they are not serviced regulary parts fail. This only becomes apparent when its too late and the alarm is sounding and cannot be stopped. Again most DIYers would understand this as they installed the system and understand how it works and carry out their own service regularly. Security companies have to run 24 hours and operate an out of hours service because even serviced alarm systems can go wrong. All of us on here get calls every now and again from non contract customers because there alarm is sounding and they cant stop it. My engineers wont attend non contract customers (mainly because non-contract cant afford the call-out charge) but that doesnt stop non-contract calling us and disturbing their sleep, and this is why we give advice on servicing. I am sorry that you thought that the advice we gave was not good enough. This forum is here to give free advice from engineers and business owners that give up their time free because they are passionate about this industry, not because they need to earn from you

Sometimes its best to let people find out stuff for themselves. When his alarm plays up at silly o clock in the morning and all his neighbours are pissed off with him he might remember the advice we gave, and understand why we gave it.

If the tamper switch is definately down then it should reset using your user code unless: 1. The alarm system used to be monitored and is on engineer reset for tampers 2. The tamper switch is faulty 3. The tamper switch is not seated correctly If you are sure that the tamper switch is down and seated correctly and the system wont reset then you need to call out an engineer. Its very likely that the engineer code was changed by the installer, and we wont know what he changed it to. The engineer code can be defaulted providing that the codes are not locked but we cannot tell you how to do this as we have no way of knowing who you are and if you are the owner of the system (its a security industry thing) As you have to call an engineer to fix the problem, it would be sensible to have the system serviced at the same time

I would agree, but when you see the likes of verisilly and other one way diy tat thats all over the TV, hubs is the direction that the domestic market is heading. In the years Ive been in this game: In the early years 80's to 90's smaller domestic didnt have alarms because it made them look like they had something to protect. In the 90's 2010's many domestics were being burgled by opportunist's, if you didnt have a alarm you were targeted. In the 2010' to 2020's domestic work seems to be larger properties (at least it does for us) insurance requirements only. 2020- seems to be app self-monitored domestic if we get the smaller systems, and it does come down to price. Hub based systems means you can plug it in next to the router pop up a few detectors 2hrs later (or 30 mins later in Happy Land) you're on to the next job. I would doubt very much that the commercial market will go that way but I have come across a few verisilly commercial sites over the last few years, some site that you would not expect to see it Antique Markets, I.T. companies with loads of servers (We fitted the access control and questioned their security alarm system and was told that their insurer was happy) high street independent shops.

Id try a power cycle

Alarms are designed to warn you if something is tampered with, and cutting wires can resut in tears. It sounds like the engineer fully decommissioned the system, but we cant tell 100% without looking for ourselves, or speaking with the chap that did it. My gut says you're probably okay to cut the wires, but please dont blame me if my gut is wrong.

Hi Yes to all your questions re the kit and Texe. The 800 is quite an old panel and long obsolete now. there are varios outputs on the panel itself I doubt you will get anything useful from the serial that panel predates SIA and only sent pin outs, but you can program a zone as a keyswitch to arm disarm it. I dont install Texe as a rule but I do know that the premier does talk to a specific home automation system but I cant remember what it is. Personally I use home assistant and a input output module from my alarm panel is connected to my server via ESP 32. But I only use it to switch my lights on and off etc no more than that. The panel I use comes with its own app which is probably a more secure and reliable way to notify me when the alarm has activated etc

First question would be whats the risk, theft attractive stock or property, area, etc etc. Second question value of contents if you were burgled how much would it cost to start again. Third question what does you insurer want? Read the small print Fourth would be site history have you been burgled before. Lastly what sort of physical security. This would give enough info to advise what you need. However, the difference between professional installers and diy is miles apart. Its a bit like going to a barber and cutting your own hair, If you dont want to look like Arthur Scargill then its best to go to the barbers. Professional installers will do a much better job, its unlikely to activate falsely, and more importantly it will work if you have a burglary. CCTV wise There are a lot of very good DIY systems out there but it is a bloody minefield, a pro should know the latest systems and design the system to your requirements. If you have no idea what BLC or HLC stands for then its better to get a pro in. Dahua and Hik are the main two Chinese brands and cant be beaten by anything none Chinese.

In theory the bell should only sound for 20 minutes and then stop. I would not recommend leaving it indefinitely though these things have a habit of going wrong at the least convenient time. That said I would recommend removing it all at the same time, if it hasnt been serviced in a while ho knows what it may or may not do

Agreed most of the DIY stuff is not very good but it depends on wether the the type of burglar you are likely to get is not very good too. If you are only likely to be targeted by smackheads then DIY is probably fine so long as you walk test it regularly. If you have stuff worth stealing then you should be looking for something a bit better.

hi and welcome