PeterJames

Probably best they will be able to change setting at the server end which may be all thats required,

Call your installer

shh!

Im not sure that we went off topic? You ask us stuff we ask why, just so that we can find out the best way to reply, we like to know full facts in order to give the best advice. If you asked whats the best detector for my lounge we would ask lots of questions about your lounge

I get all my stuff from Maplin

That's great so what about all the strange and wonderful things that we all know happen but are not in any of the engineers manuals? What about working out how to get a cable from A 2 B aesthetically invisible. There are so many things that I instantly know what the fault is just by the description of the symptoms that any novice would take a week to work out, which is all down to experience. In order to make enough money to survive in this industry you have to find and fix faults quickly and first time, because customers wont pay for you to keep changing stuff until you get it right, which means your boss is paying.

Tricky one, at your age I think that you will find it hard, nobody in this industry seem to be interested in investing in training people, most of the adverts I see on the FB forums are for engineers with three years experience or more. None of them are interested in taking on apprentices, let alone a mature apprentice. The wages for trainees is circa £18K, some much less some a bit more, most mature trainees couldn't survive on the wage. No certificate will help you either, without experience you are an expensive asset, the cert shows you know and understand the rules, but experience shows you know all the things you cant learn in a classroom like the product for example.

Are you going for a career change or are you already working in this industry?

Goods luck with that

If your not going to use the telemetry and you want to do CCTV on the cheap just buy a blink, or one of Amazon/China's offerings, you will get ten times the resolution for very little money. The Vista kit was Norbains rebadged china tat, and the age of it its probably quite low res in comparison to most of the cheap rubbish on Ebay and Amazon. You will be very lucky to find anyone with any knowledge of a 25 year old unbranded dome, that hasnt forgotten everything they know about it.

I hate G3 full stop, Insurance companies, architects, other related non technical mongs think that because its higher security, its whats needed for their old barn with doors hanging off and no windows.

I wonder how easy it would be to change a few hundred engineer codes via udl?

I heard that but, the whole point of meter readings is to spot if there is anything wrong with the installation, not just the cable. Testing with the resistors in-line will tell you there is something wrong in the same way that testing the cable will. Only it will also tell you; if you have a bad resistor, or if you have the resistors around the wrong way, or if a terminal is not done up tight enough. On top of that if you have a staple through the cable on the pair you have twisted together to meter you get a false reading. At the end of the day its about the working system imo, you trying to prevent having to come back the day after it was installed because its been going off all night.

IIf iisnt used for monitoring then it could be listed as auxiliary items

The Grade of a system is defined by the lowest graded component so if you fit a grade 2 component the system will be G2

The whole idea of meter readings is to check the the circuit is what its expected to be, so I would use a meter on the circuit. If its wired wrong or the wrong resistor has been used or there is short on the cable. You could meter a spare pair of wires but it wont pick up if you havent done the screws up on a door contact

Intruder would be program, walk test, and check that items are installed to the specification and properly. If monitored, set up monitoring and test with ARC. Meter readings would be each circuit resistance, quiescent current consumption, battery current, current consumption in alarm, and calculate that the battery is an adequate size. Do the same with any PSU's. Check the bell voltage and that the holdoff is working (for longer than 10 seconds, in case the engineer has left the engineers link on the bell) charging current to the bell. If there is signalling equipment check its earthed, if it is separately housed, check any cabling between the CPU and the STU are mechanically protected, check the current readings as above. All meter readings should be done using a calibrated company multimeter. Note bell delay time (if applicable) Note Bell ring time Note entry time & exit time Number of Rearms Linefault monitoring Set the alarm fully and test entry exit is working as it should, set alarm fully and activate alarm system intruder and confirmed intruder, if there are panic buttons test them by pressing them while in day mode. Check with ARC that they recieved all signals in the order that they should have been sent. Handover should note any changes to the specification, all paperwork such as user manual certificates, and it should say that the customer has been shown how to use the alarm system and has a master code or fob, and that thy know how to add new users. I think I have covered everything for intruder. CCTV is a bit different NSI expects us to use a rotakin Fire is quite a bit more involved

Hi Cieska For starters are we talking intruder, or fire, or CCTV, or Access, or gate automation? Each have there own set checks, tests, and meter readings.

Commissioning is programming, testing, meter readings, paperwork, and handing over, but for smaller companies it sometimes means 2nd fix as well.

It should be easy enough to default, and most engineers worth their salt should be able to default it. But there is the rare off chance that it is locked, so noone could guarantee to default it, but it would be rare if they couldn't. ADT have different codes for different areas so you would need a local ADT engineer, if you could find one within your budget that is.

I thought it was a typo, or lack of understanding of current values the mains fuse would be higher than 250mA. I was right, Steve has confirmed that it is the PCB fuse which would not have been influenced by the hedge trimmer, unless she was trimming the carpet and caught the cables underneath or trimming around the bell box LOL

Mains tripping would not have caused the aux 12v fuse to have blown Steve, the mains fuse situated by the incoming mains maybe. But any of the fuses on the main PCB are protecting the PCB from short circuit and mains tripping would have no influence over them.

I suspect that they wont recommend another brand LOL but they may well recommend someone in your area

There should be a fused spur by the panel, if not there is also a mains fuse behind the control panel pcb, where the mains comes in. Can the cats get within six foot of your existing detectors? The Gardtec panel is old, and they have never been the best panel. But I am not so sure that other panels are much easier to install, programming wise the 595 is very simple in comparison to many. Newer panels have more features yes, but the more the features the harder it is to program. As for your no-show, there are several alarm companies out there, I would recommend you look for an approved co, I am not saying that one-man-bands are no good, there are many on here that are proper chaps. But what I am saying is if you use a company that has gone to the trouble of getting accredited they are more likely to show up when they say they will, do what they say they will do, and charge what they say they will charge Pop your postcode in on here https://www.nsi.org.uk/ or ssaib.co.uk

QFA If you need an alarm that wont go off for no reason or if you cats jump at the window then you need to get someone that knows what there doing to sort it out for you. Its not something that you can seek help with on a forum, a pro would need to see the property where the cats are likely to jump and be detected etc. I wouldn't bank on the battery being the cause of your sounding problems either, it probably has a contributing factor but its unlikely to be the main cause. My advice would be disconnect it all inc external sounders, as you're not using it anyway. Either or get someone in that knows what they are doing and get it sorted properly.