PeterJames

Stu Datafusion like Scantronic, I know nothing about the newer stuff I do know the original 9100, 9600 and 9800 were very good panels very reliable. I have a few Scanny takeovers which seem to be okay, we dont get much trouble. Detection wise I would recommend the Opex RX Quad, Opex only make detection they dont make panels or bells so they are expert at what they do we rarely have a problem with their quads, and FA's are normally environmental. With windows you would be better off going for wireless unless you are plastering everywhere, its hard to get a seismic detector to the best position on a window without some cable on show. There are very few keypads that are modern looking, I like the Orisec one but if its anything like the Risco one it will be pants. I have an andriod flushed into the wall on my landing, to control my lights and CCTV ect I have pondered with the idea of using the smart app for the intruder so it acts as a keypad as well but in fairness its a good idea aesthetically but it wont work as well as it looks. Intruder alarm companies have some funny ideas on what they think looks good in someones house, this is why the crap diy market is so popular.

Yep thats it you end up with H1O instead of H2O

It tasted like the kettle had been boiled cooled down and then boiled again.

One of our customers had one of those, their tea tasted awful

I did think about one in the kitchen for the kettle, but the kettle never has any water in it as we only fill it up with the amount we need, and never refill it straight after use. I nearly bought an app kettle, because it tells me how full it is, but that wont help as Iit still want have water in it so it will only tell me what I already know, I need a app kettle that fills itself. Ive thought about this a fair bit and I just cant think of any use for a wireless socket

All my non light switch lights like the mood lights are low voltage, and either come with RF or IR control so I can turn the room blue, or dim the lights via my broadlink and alexa without the need to switch on a plug

I dont have any sockets, I did have the lightwave RF plug in type, but I found I never had a use for one. Most stuff I can control via ir, or low voltage wireless relays or 433 switch

You get nothing for two in a bed.............not in this game!

Wireless buttons

Sorry I didnt look that close I said mine are similar heres a link for one with no neutral Ill post a pic of mine in a minhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smart-Wifi-Touch-Wall-Switch-No-Neutral-Required-1-2-3-Gang-UK-SELLER/164050287240?var=463672810618&hash=item263228ba88:g:VNoAAOSwFzdev~vb

No neutral required

I recommend backing access up to a usb or server everytime they make a change, or add a card. That way if the hdd goes or the system falls over, its just install software on new machine and run backup, and all they lose is the journal

I imported the light switch's from China I used to buy a lot of CCTV directly I buy very little now. There are a few different ones on ebay, but most dont do two way for hall and landing where you need to switch either light from upstairs or downstairs for example. The ones I imported have a wireless switch that looks the same as the normal switches, so rooms that have two light switch's have a wireless one at one end. Mine are similar to the Sonoff switches https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sonoff-T3-EU-1Gang-Smart-WiFi-Wireless-Touch-Switch-Wall-Light-Remote/293588175534?hash=item445b380aae:m:mKb5butd_BuZhQ7hDIl-K6Q

Hub wise I would recommend one of these you dont need an internet connection for your stuff to work, unless of course you are using Alexa Hubitat hub: https://hubitat.com/products

I wouldnt use wireless for security if it can be wired, especially CCTV. If you run Cat 5 to your camera positions you can either POE them (better but more expensive) or if your on a budget you can use AHD cameras with Baluns. I would also advise running cables for the intruder and a couple of cat 5 to the TV point that way you can use HDMI over cat5 to the tv from the recorder. All my light switch's are 433 similar to the Lightwave ones (I used to have lightwave ones but having a button for on and a button for off was too complicated for my keyholder) I have outputs on my alarm hard wired to 433 transmitters, same with the CCTV, and I have a 433 receiver wired to a zone programed as keyswitch for arm only, so I can get alexa to arm the alarm, but she cant switch it off.

There are several alarm companies that offer automation and security. It all depends on your budget really. Many alarm manufacturers are playing catchup, but they do have to jump through several more hops than the DIY market. Many like Risco and Pyronix try to market to both trade and DIY and to some degrees they do hit that market. Personally I have a separate home automation system to my security, but I have some integration. The intruder controls my house lights, my CCTV controls my external lights, my home automation can arm the alarm but it cannot disarm the alarm. Anything that can be hacked should not be able to disarm your alarm.

Because your now just a public member, and we have to pay for the comfy seats in the mod lounge

I would guess that wire was unused then

Normans were French? and thats a horny hat not a horn one

I dont think you will find any vikings called Roger, they will have names like Harald, Svend and Knud

Cus it keeps his mum on her toes when she's cooking his nuggets and chips

Only one previous owner

There are probably many wires that are not used inside a control panel do a bell test if it works then its not a bell wire. Then set it if it sets then its likely not a wire in use

Its most likely a short between tamper and circuit, are there any spare cores on the cable?