PeterJames

Using all grade 3 kit and installing it to grade 3 is fine but you cant call it grade 3, in the same way as if we installed a grade 3 system and put a grade 2 door contact on it, it then becomes grade 2. Not a problem unless something happens and the insurer wants to see the cert

No, grade 3 is Monitored with Police response and in order to do this has to be under a service contract with an accredited company. The grading is always defined by the lowest denominator and so that would be defined by the service contract, none = grade 1. As you know a grade 3 is not in any way necessarily any more secure than a well installed grade 2 system. The door contacts are the biggest downfall to the reliability of grade 3. Personally I would always the necessity for full grade 3. The idea of grading was so that there was more clarity between the insurance companies and the installers. It didnt really work because insurers who do not understand the technology will always take the highest number to be the best, which you and I both know is not the idea of grading. The problem is not all installers are the same and so the insure cannot trust the installer to install the correct devices in the right environment, because unfortunately some are clueless, or employ clueless surveyors. Sad when you think of it, this industry could be so much better.

It also has to be certified and under a service contract by an accredited company otherwise its just grade 1

hi and welcome

As above but if that doesnt work try 03 instead of 30

Rain socks will never catch on, Hi and welcome

I always found it weird that the 9800 was the LED older panel and the 9600 was the lcd newer panel but the 9100 was the oldest panel.

If its working and does everything you need then there is no point. Galaxy and Texecom are two different brands BTW

Adjust the timer settings so it waits 20 minutes between checks that seems to cure it on the HKC, we have around 200 Wifi connected HKC panels now and rarely get a comms fault now. OP if you part set the alarm at night it will not go off at silly o clock in the morning to warn you of a WiFi fault, it will go off when you unset the alarm, to tell you that there was one in the night though.

Those DA buttons were good, Id forgotten all about them till now, brings memories flooding back running a 12 core to a speaker to pick up the keypad door contact and ET switch 6 for the RKP 2 for the ET 4 for the MC, the speaker sound and the ET soud wer all wired from two of the terminals of the RKP. It was okay doing this for commercials but a bugger to hide the cables for resi

agreed

And already available

Thanks for point that out Stu watching Grand Tour and typing at the same time then not proof reading after a few beers. Part setting the alarm works well for me, my daughter doesnt like it so much, she has to switch her light back on if she is still doing stuff when the alarm gets set. Mostly though, by the time the 20 sec exit time is expired and system is armed we are all in bed.

Im using Broadlink now, Ive imported a load of light switches, I have transmitters and receivers and some nice looking wireless light switches, everything works from Alexa, and when I part set or full set the alarm it switches off all my lights in the house (I got fed up with coming down in the morning to find the kitchen light has been on all night) I also have courtesy lights, the hall light comes on whilst arming and goes off when set, it also comes on when you open the front door but you have to switch them off manually. Lights also come on when the alarm activates. The best bit about the light switches is they dont need a negative to work, so they are a straight swap for standard light switch. I have a couple of broadlink pros at home and one at work, I can control stuff at work like my aircon or lights from alexa at home or at work , and vica versa

DIY product now, another reason these little co's are going bang

Not knocking the smaller companies, but sometimes its hard to make a living from this industry when there is always someone willing to work for nothing. And thats why the smaller good guys go bang they cant compete with the big boys or ones that will work and pay you to work. This time maybe consider going for an accredited company, https://www.nsi.org.uk or ww.ssiab.co.uk . You sound like a sensible chap that understands value for money

If this is a domestic install you dont need Dtecs at all DT's are for hostile areas like garages, factories ect. I would never install a dt in a house unless I had to for confirmation purposes, they're not designed for that environment

Post where you are, there may be someone that will take you on a service contract

Owns shares in CSL but not really n alarms wizz

Huh? QFA =Quoted for agreement

Its James that holds the purse strings I just make the sandwiches with the budget he gives me, you try getting smoke salmon from the tinned tuna budget he gives me

Why is it my fault all of a sudden?

QFA

Difference between accredited and non accredited would be that, accredited do have to install to a code of practice, and have a certain expected standard of work. Work is audited , and the customer has an independent route of complaint. The system is also far more likely to be compliant with Data Protection.

https://www.nsi.org.uk/information-centre/business-security-options/cctv/