PeterJames

Thanks for point that out Stu watching Grand Tour and typing at the same time then not proof reading after a few beers. Part setting the alarm works well for me, my daughter doesnt like it so much, she has to switch her light back on if she is still doing stuff when the alarm gets set. Mostly though, by the time the 20 sec exit time is expired and system is armed we are all in bed.

Im using Broadlink now, Ive imported a load of light switches, I have transmitters and receivers and some nice looking wireless light switches, everything works from Alexa, and when I part set or full set the alarm it switches off all my lights in the house (I got fed up with coming down in the morning to find the kitchen light has been on all night) I also have courtesy lights, the hall light comes on whilst arming and goes off when set, it also comes on when you open the front door but you have to switch them off manually. Lights also come on when the alarm activates. The best bit about the light switches is they dont need a negative to work, so they are a straight swap for standard light switch. I have a couple of broadlink pros at home and one at work, I can control stuff at work like my aircon or lights from alexa at home or at work , and vica versa

DIY product now, another reason these little co's are going bang

Not knocking the smaller companies, but sometimes its hard to make a living from this industry when there is always someone willing to work for nothing. And thats why the smaller good guys go bang they cant compete with the big boys or ones that will work and pay you to work. This time maybe consider going for an accredited company, https://www.nsi.org.uk or ww.ssiab.co.uk . You sound like a sensible chap that understands value for money

If this is a domestic install you dont need Dtecs at all DT's are for hostile areas like garages, factories ect. I would never install a dt in a house unless I had to for confirmation purposes, they're not designed for that environment

Post where you are, there may be someone that will take you on a service contract

Owns shares in CSL but not really n alarms wizz

Huh? QFA =Quoted for agreement

Its James that holds the purse strings I just make the sandwiches with the budget he gives me, you try getting smoke salmon from the tinned tuna budget he gives me

Why is it my fault all of a sudden?

QFA

Difference between accredited and non accredited would be that, accredited do have to install to a code of practice, and have a certain expected standard of work. Work is audited , and the customer has an independent route of complaint. The system is also far more likely to be compliant with Data Protection.

https://www.nsi.org.uk/information-centre/business-security-options/cctv/

Its a diy panel not really something an engineer will be able to help you with

Accredited companies

You'll fit right in here

I would say a lot more than 5k, and then if you look at all the co's that cover London but are no where near, closer to 100k or more I would say.

It takes a lot of hard work to get as stupid as some of us, some of us are complete idiots. But just keep at it and eventually you will get there. Welcome BTW

down power power up mains first battery is probably dead when was it last serviced?

It could be a number of things could be poor connections in the bell so t6he bell is not getting enough current, do you see corrosion on the terminals at the bell? It could be the bell is knackered, it could be the panel is knackered my money is on one of the first two

I didnt bother with an external sounder at all on my house, waste of time

Yes any tampers you have open will indicate fault

Try recycling the power

Did the default codes work before? I take it you didnt change the code? You could try recycling the power completely

reset the alarm by entering the user code and disarming the system you will be able to access the engineer menu after that