PeterJames

https://www.grapheine.com/bombaytv/identity-en-8c1acdda2eb4bdbff3e28f994f9f489b.html

For a one off its cheaper to buy a new dvr as the kit will only reset the recorder if you can prove you own it. We always put an installer user and password on the recorders when we install them, it makes it easier when we come to service it, if the main user is not there, we dont have to make lots of phone calls to find out what the pw is, and often the customer forgets the pw so we can come and reset it for them, sometimes an employee leaves and he was the only one that new the pw so can we come and reset it. It just makes sooo much sense to have an installer password in the recorder.

Something like this would be better, its mains https://www.screwfix.com/p/nightwatcher-nw760b-16w-hd-cctv-wi-fi-camera-led-light-pir-black-8gb/4519T?kpid=4519T&ds_rl=1249481&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIia337LLS2AIVzLftCh10VAveEAQYAyABEgIP-PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMn19_Oy0tgCFeynUQodMuoPGA

Risco will also tell you that a battery in a wireless detector will last up to 3 years I have never known them last more than 18 months. I would never put a 7Ah battery in a panel with a 1amp PSU yep it will charge it, yep the battery will last far longer than a smaller one in a power cut, but those figures do not state the current needed to charge a flat 7Ah battery

You wouldnt really need the bells and whistles to ring for 12 hrs now would you

ie 200mA x 10 = 2Ah

Its hard to test the battery without a proper battery discharge tester. The best way to work out the battery size needed is to see what current the system draws and x that by 10 that will give you the minimum battery size required to last for 12 hrs, if you want need it to last longer add another PSU and battery rather than expecting the smaller panel PSU to cope.

Of course a transformer will wear out, they wear out in normal use let alone when they are being overloaded. Transformers are a moving part in your panel that's the bit that hums, they are vibrating the more they hum the more they are vibrating which is wear. But it also puts a strain on the components the bridge rectifier and diodes that go into making the charging circuit

As James says a flat 7Ah will draw more power than the PSU is designed to supply, therefore putting unnecessary strain on the transformer, eventually wearing it out. Its like using a Nissan Micra (Your PSU) to tow a fully loaded truck up a hill (Your battery) People often think that bigger is better without taking into account that the current required to charge it when its fully discharged.

Just another point I would not recommend installing a battery bigger than 3.4Ah the PSU is only about 1amp the current draw on a flat 7Ah will knacker the psu

Sounds like the panel is knackered then battery should have been replaced over ten years ago, in 2007 which is probably the reason the panel failed. As the battery dies it starts to pull more and more power, it eventually kills the charging circuit. New panel and battery, and as your bell did not ring when you down powered the panel, I would guess a new bell.

Whats the age of the battery? Have you tried powering up mains only?

agreed

Hi and welcome

All events leading up to watchdog should be there, I am fairly certain of this I removed an NVM (Non Volatile Memory) from a panel that had been in a burned down building in order to read the log from it, it told me everything that had happened prior to watchdog. And that panel had been subject to extreme temperature and water ingress. It was from a slightly bigger panel than a CPX but I am sure that the CPX boasts a 200 event log NVM.

Besides the watchdog what else is in the log, if you look further back it will tell you what time day the mains failed, therefore you can work out if its a complete power failure causing the problem or if its getting spiked when the power comes back on.

They probably come with it, but Maplin RS or Farnell sell resistors

Whats wrong with SME?

The point I of walk testing is to ensure that the detector that is activating is the detector that is displayed on the panel. For example say the garage is programmed in zone 5 and the landing is zone 4. But you accidentally wired the landing in 5 and the garage in 4, when the alarm goes off you will be looking in the wrong place.

Did it display garage on the keypad when you walk tested?

Have you walked tested the system just to be sure that it is that detector thats activating? Link out the detector on the nc terminals then see if it still alarms when set, if not you have a dodgy detector. If it still alarms you have either a panel fault or a wiring fault, swap zones see if the fault moves with the swap, if it stays on the same zone its the panel.

When did you install it?

Which Gardtec panel is it?

Too many digits I am sure its only 4 or 6 digit. The defaulting method is as you said, there are no jumpers that will default the panel

If it was locked originally and you changed it using the original engineers code then whatever you changed it to will be locked too. I seem to remember it was something along the lines of that any number that starts or ends with a 7 automatically locked the engineer code. I would try different combinations of the code that you think you changed it to, chances are you are using the wrong code and its locked so wont default. Its not unheard of for alarm systems to forget codes the Version 2.2 Ab ^ panel used to forget the user code, but only after it was set.