PeterJames

A keypad outside the protected area is always a good idea, if you make sure that its well warn on the numbers that make up your code. Really it all depends on the risk, I am guessing you havent got anything worth protecting, otherwise you wouldnt be here you would be having a proper alarm installed. Which means the type of burglar that will target you would most likely be an opportunist and not someone that has spent time watching you come and go and planned the heist of the century. So yes putting a keypad outside the protected area will work for you, but keep it clean, and bear in mind its not recommended.

Changing the wiring is not that hard, remove wires from zone three fit link, remove one wire from zone one join it to one of the wires removed from zone 3, put the other wire from zone three in the vacant hole of zone one. This will do what you want but, if you have a false alarm on zone one you will never know what detector caused it

LOL

May I extend my sincere condolences... Welcome to TSI

If HKC is available to the public it is certainly isnt cheap. HKC Tech support are not willing to talk to people that have seen a picture of an alarm system and think they cold get a job on the side subbying for ADT

Hi and welcome, and just so you know, we all love your chicken here.

Not in the op's budget they dont, by the time he has purchase either kit it would have been cheaper to get the pro co in. Also I know HKC would be trade only, not sure about Honeywell.

How draughty is the garage? You could go down the wireless route but the only come with passive infra red motion detectors, for hostile areas such as garages I would always advise dual technology which are only available as hard wired. If you are thinking DIY why dont you buy a couple of dual technology detectors and hard wire them into the existing panel yourself? This would be far more reliable than a cheapo diy wireless bit of tat

£380.00 is very reasonable, assuming that the installer is decent. Your maintenance contract will not just be about the service visit either, if you have a problem at silly o clock in the morning like you bell ringing and you cant stop it, you would phone your alarm co and someone will be there. It cost me more more than you pay in year per week to provide that service for my customers.

Two circuits not one, so you would have to experiment with joining two pairs of wires. But even once you have worked out which two pairs and joined them, it is unlikely that the system will set, the panel is normally waiting to see you go out by opening and closing the door when your setting. You may be lucky and the the system maybe programmed as timed set, but even then when you come back in the door would normally start the entry timer. So any detectors after the door will cause an immediate alarm, because the alarm has not seen the entry door open so thinks you have broken in. So the door contact ideally needs to be replaced.

Did you ask the garage door man if he could do the door contacts? Its a fairly basic system no eol's . It does looks like the battery was changed a couple of years ago, so I assume someone serviced it then? So cant you ask them? Most co's would want to change the panel, it is quite old, the problem you have when it comes to adding a couple of bells is warranty issues when the panel goes down and takes the new bells with it.

my money would be on the PSU

did you fit the HDD sometimes they pull the power down as do fans ect

psu probably, are you sure that you have used the one that came with the recorder?

Hi these manuals are the same as the XL panel

QFA its normally whomever broke it has to fix it

Why is it good news for me? Guildford is 50 miles north of me and thats the nearest hotspot

If its been maintained then you should be able to claim from the energy company. The energy company will want some input from your security co, to say that it has been regularly maintained and that the panel was in full working order before the power outages. Depending on the power outage cause, normally the energy company will contribute towards the repair/replacement of your system. Dont expect reimbursement of the full cost as your panel is at least ten years old.

Yes but without knowing which panel how are we supposed to tell him. Its a bit like asking whats the quickest way to get to London without saying where I am. You can assume I'm in Brighton but you just dont know for sure. You can assume that he has a Texe because of the value but to assume makes an ass out of u and me.

http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/bills/article-5279813/UK-burglary-hotspots-revealed-postcode.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fzen.yandex.com

I have known people claim against their energy company in the past, but these are usually systems that have been regularly maintained by a professional alarm company. That can give a service history of the battery etc. I would guess what has happened is that the battery went flat and the system lost its memory, a little unusual because systems normally have a non volatile memory so it could have been spiked. The bit that doesnt add up is why did the code not default? Unless you're using the factory set code .

Theye are cheap nowadays get a LED one much more economical

do you have a multi meter Joel?

It may be that your over complicating this as it sounds to me like the bulb blew and took out the trip. Of course I could be wrong.The Racall units used to have low voltage pirs that tripped the box and that then switched a relay and switched the light on, but the switch on the box over rides the pir and allows you to switch on the lights without triggering the low voltage pir. So if you have the box on over ride then you should be supplying 240 to the stand alone security light and it should work as a stand alone unit.

I got on a bus the other day, theyve changed since I was a kid