PeterJames

The point I of walk testing is to ensure that the detector that is activating is the detector that is displayed on the panel. For example say the garage is programmed in zone 5 and the landing is zone 4. But you accidentally wired the landing in 5 and the garage in 4, when the alarm goes off you will be looking in the wrong place.

Did it display garage on the keypad when you walk tested?

Have you walked tested the system just to be sure that it is that detector thats activating? Link out the detector on the nc terminals then see if it still alarms when set, if not you have a dodgy detector. If it still alarms you have either a panel fault or a wiring fault, swap zones see if the fault moves with the swap, if it stays on the same zone its the panel.

When did you install it?

Which Gardtec panel is it?

Too many digits I am sure its only 4 or 6 digit. The defaulting method is as you said, there are no jumpers that will default the panel

If it was locked originally and you changed it using the original engineers code then whatever you changed it to will be locked too. I seem to remember it was something along the lines of that any number that starts or ends with a 7 automatically locked the engineer code. I would try different combinations of the code that you think you changed it to, chances are you are using the wrong code and its locked so wont default. Its not unheard of for alarm systems to forget codes the Version 2.2 Ab ^ panel used to forget the user code, but only after it was set.

You can still buy those rkp if you really want to save cash. I would also look at the fuse marked aux take it out and meter it. It could be that you damaged the regulator but I think it unlikely. Was the original installer approved ie ssaib or NSI? If you feel that a system change is in order I would suggest you get three quotes, I would recommend you use an approved company, which doesnt necessarily mean you will get a better job but it does mean you will get some protection if you dont. Post the quotes here and we will provide you with our thoughts. Overall I would suggest that you pick the installer that you feel most comfortable with, this is unlikely to be the cheapest. Good alarm engineers are hard to find and therefore they demand good wages, so any co that suspiciously cheap should be avoided.

Many dont connect the tampers that way it cant go wrong.........cant it?

Its a 610 or 620 now or something it is still available, Its the easiest swap over, but its not the best panel. Risco now produce lightsys or something, we looked at that too but its not that good. We only install HKC now which is not really a DIY product, I think that Texecom Premier seems to be the weapon of choice for premium DIY installations. Pyronix also have an offering, thats popular with DIY neither brand is supposed to be DIY but people dont have any trouble getting hold of them. I wouldnt buy a Pyronix bell, go for a Texecom or Risco bell the polycarbinate is much better quality, it doesnt expand in sun.

Yeah its wired EOL Why are you looking to change the panel?

Remind me why you looking to replace the panel?

Actually looking again that could be wired 4 wire and not eol its quite hard to tell, take a lid off a detector and take a pic

It could be tidier, but sometimes the tidier it is the harder it is to fault find, Ive seen far worse. It is wired EOL. If the defaulting process doesnt work then the engineer code will have been locked by the installer, this is done to prevent people changing the programming of the system and then trying to blame the installer when there is a burglary and the alarm didnt work. 600 will be compatible with EOL's so an easier DIY project, Im not sure if the 800 expander's are the same though. I hadnt realised you had 19 devices revise my price to around £675.00 plus VAT and another £70.00 plus VAT if you need an expander. If your getting someone in then would advise you get three quotes and see what they say, there will be more labour changing EOLs and expanders but the Gardtec stuff is dated nowadays.

If we were in your area we would supply and install (We only install equipment we supplied because of warranty issues that may arise ) for around £550 plus VAT for a Gtec 600 or about £490.00 plus vat for a Gtec CP8 prices approx. The labour value in the prices quoted would be £175 half a day one man, this would be our minimum charge for a panel change as we are £99.00 per hr non contract, two or three hours is more expensive than half a day.

The 600 EOL is the same as the 800, assuming that you are wired EOL it could be wired 4 wire the 800 is fairly old.

qfa the cheaper diy wireless are not good, and the wiring is normally the last thing to fail its wire, it doesnt have electronic components in it. The risco cp8 uses the same eol as the 800 its only 9 zones though.

I wasnt, you would be surprised at the daft questions we get asked here, so I never assume anything. I just tell it as it is.

Please dont post engineering manuals in the public area if you are unsure of the rules please take a look at the forum main page

A picture of the keypad and and control panel would have been more useful than a picture of the PCB that could be pretty much any old panel although it says C& K on the PCB it still doesnt help identify which one

It wont fit, and the panel isnt capable of charging it, other than that it will work. But you are better off replacing it with a battery designed to fit and work with your system. It will hold your panel up for at least 12 hrs and will fully recharge after 24 hrs

I knew that I thought that must have been what he needed, the only way I could see you would get the OS would be by approaching the manufacturers directly I doubt they would provide it though thats the bit that makes the machine,up until then all you have is a bare bones machine

Have you tried this ? http://qvisglobal.com/knowledge-base/cms/cortex-terminator-cms

Ive just been offered 8 legs of Venison for £80.00 .....Do you think that's two Deer?

I would agree with Sixwheel, the camera doesnt look like it will do what it suggests on the box. I would guess that reference to WiFi means when connected to a WiFi enabled recorder. That camera is analogue so its not even network enabled