sixwheeledbeast

Only one I've had with this issue was the PCB had burn marks on the back due to overloading from cooked battery.

BTW "Type 2 or above" should really be clarified as Type 2 or better, i.e. PVC Type 2 or LSZH Type 1.

This is were experience from people that fit and design stuff is worth it's weight for letting them do it. There is rarely a truly perfect corner so things have to be balanced. There are other things too, like accessibility to both work/maintain it and initially install the cabling. If the sensor maybe blocked in the future by tall furniture or curtains. Passive IR will not penetrate surfaces so cars are no problem. Definitely not above a heat source. The stove/kettle most likely off if going out, unless you have an Aga type setup.

Shielded is unnecessary for Texecom, as long as it's Cable Type 2 or above that's fine.

Yep I'd do exactly like this. All the wrong colours but lets not start that one...

It may aswell be OF the amount of skin in the shot... Issue with doing a full turn around the screw is the loop binds causing it to pull round with the pan head; like with the red core here.

Don't use them any more, more modern styles have PCB mounted sprung terminals and most things are wired FSL/EOL now. You should remove enough isolation from the conductors to do a half turn around the screw. Wrap the conductor with the 7 strands twisted up together, clockwise to make a half turn around the screw. The washer is to trap the reed conductors securely, I have always gone under the washer but I would imagine it's designed to be between.

Who knows, in working order the system is designed to be tamperproof, triggering the internal and/or external bells depending on how it's tampered with. I imagine it's well past it's best and should be decommissioned or upgraded if the wiring is in good order. The power light indicates it is connected to mains power so could alarm if you play with it. Systems that have had no maintenance for many years are generally for the bin. But I'm sure you've read all this before if you've been reading posts here.

They're known for going faulty. Replace the whole system is unfortunately the only option with obsolete wireless. They were poor from a security POV due to being 1 way systems. Which is probably why they discontinued them eventually, making all the components obsolete.

Isn't it something like Code*93? They are a domestic panel you can usually live without a walk test if your within hearing distance of the speaker.

If your not sure, it's time to call an alarm engineer. The standby battery in the system will be drained and is possibly stopping the system from booting, assuming there is no other damage to the system that needs repair as well...

w3w is highly flawed. If you want something like that use Plus codes (short ones are fine if you have a town). Example:- 9C4VFX5M+647 or FX5M+647 Halesowen

Like the other post the PSU is likely faulty. These panels are long obsolete, offer poor security being only 1 way wireless and really should be upgraded.

When was it last serviced? From what you describe it's the modern version with the newer failure tone. If it's been several years since an inspection its very possible the battery in the panel is cooked, which has a possibility of damaging the panel. You now have two faults with the lid off on the sensor and it in tamper.

Most external sirens are compatible with each other but using the same brand as the panel will mean the terminals are named the same and you may get better feature compatibility. Regarding PIR's they are the elements within the pyro. A quad has a better sensor and lens arrangement dividing the detection area into four elements that all need to trigger together. For a great explanation I always point to this video. Bear in mind it's only explaining a basic PIR not a Quad. You could buy sensors years ago with twin dual element pyro's side by side. So cheaper here then...