sixwheeledbeast

Using the Aux input the panel knows to expect the test if it's programmed at a fault and not a tamper, with a zone you'll have to program that zone attribute. I'd do what I suggested in a previous post before taking anything apart to see if the fault will clear. I'm still sus it's not wired correctly somehow. You should be able to disable them completely from the panel via the engineer hold off, yes.

That's only G2 tho, so missing your fault pairs you need to series. I forgot the microswitch wire replaces the return wire between the boxes. Just because it's been fine doesn't mean it's wired so it will work, maybe it is, maybe not. MSW terminals are just for the boxes not to be wired back to anything.

Having to series the microswitch, return and fault terminals correctly in a proper JB sounds like a PITA... Usually best to loop in and out of the first box. If it's not wired correctly it may just be a tamper between the two boxes as the tamper return may still be closed elsewhere... Using the test wire requires wiring as per Texecom recommendations otherwise you'll get faults on every test signal. The panel has to be programmed to expect the test is happening if you use Zones instead of fault input.

I'd consider just replacing the battery part BAT-0001 if everything else looks serviceable. Try triggering the strobe and see if they activate, then just the bell trigger and see if it clears hold-off. I've not sure it will be the battery, you don't have the Test input wired from what I gather. This runs the test using the test timer which triggers the fault output on the bell to open if the tests fail. Not only is there added complexity having a G3 bell but you have two which is a mess to get right having to series everything.

What's wrong with the existing siren? Auxiliary type reports an alarm silently on the display which is probably fine for your needs. Grade 3 boxes fault output are designed to be wired to the Aux Input and that input programmed as Fault (Sys Config), if your looking for the Texecom suggested way to do this. Either way it all seems overkill, G3 fault detections wouldn't offer much benefit on a domestic over G2 and regular testing.

Wired the strobe to the siren and it's got strobe on arm switched on?

Not seen these for years they were only ever composite and the batteries drained out very quick to be useful. Still being sold on bird/animal watching websites but expensive for what they are IMO.

Powermax before they were Visionic?. Seen the odd one branded as other things. No idea if they use a similar manual. It will be 1 way wireless and for the bin anyway....

I would always use sensors with sealed optics to avoid any possibility of this. Optex, Bosch, Texe Capture are some examples. You need to diagnose if it's the system or the environment if you want to work it out. Proper engineers would do this, some would just without diagnosis throw a sensor at it and escape on their horse....

Check the voltage, connections and cable are good. Consider replacing the sensor.

It's DIY stuff I doubt many here will have fitted it. I would look on the label of the DVR to see if it says how much current it requires. Then you can work out which is correct.

It would likely need an installer reset on any tampers if it was under contract in the past. You wouldn't have the engineer code as an end user. Consider having an installer take it over and service it. They can program it how you want and you have a record it's operational and fit for purpose.

Installer should be able to make the part set silent. Which model Galaxy?

I'd get rid, flaky Risco stuff. But yes it's totally wireless detection so replace devices too.

From what I remember it replaces the banner message with TEST FAILED upon failure, this will display until engineer reset. Not something used often as you loose the detection while it's on soak.