sixwheeledbeast

Yes, the LED is blue on the Bosch if that's an issue.

Maybe read the post again....

Anything but the Capture from Texecom are cheap tat IMO. Optex, Texe Capture or Bosch for me, has to have sealed optics.

Premiers have separate programmable volumes for chime and advisory tones

I'd agree with above, it looks like it says CS mount not C on the side of the lens? If it's suppose to have a C mount but you have a CS then the Flange Focus length will be out. You can only use a spacer ring going C>CS not CS>C.

I agree possible but unlikely. Jammers are becoming more common in attacks even if they're illegal to use. With boosters you can get GIGO, probably best for multiple access points.

Yuasa rate NP batteries as 5 year service life for use within alarm systems, other manufacturers maybe different. From experience you could get 10 years from a Yuasa one but it's best to swap before it's deteriorating.

Never used one but I'd guess Comms Fault? Has it tried to report the false alarm but the line is dead?

It may work, just at a lower sound output. You need a zone type that won't effect the system, I'd use Custom with everything disabled.

It depends what the "customer" wants. As you have discovered there are multiple ways to do it. Digi Outputs don't sink much current so you could overload. It's 1 panel output is a little more. I'd generally use a PE48 with plugon relay card if I know I need to do stuff like this. The recommended impedance on the loudspeaker output is minimum to stop a short, if higher it will just be harder to drive so quiet. Use an expander and it's loudspeaker output if you want remote speakers instead of a mimic sounder. I'd say with it wired NO it was on mimic before.

Yep the relay output of the beam

Because the old panel sound was was mimic not a chime or maybe the original installer didn't know how to wire stuff to a TS?...

There is a normally closed output on the relay too....

|Doubt you need any relays. Just wire them into a zone, set as some unused/custom zone type and program as chime or 24hr whichever you want.

You get what you pay for... As tech moves on it's increasingly common to have local radio attacks on equipment. Wifi jammers are often used to defeat doorbell cams at the moment.

It's down to the ethics of the company. I'm sure some would lock just to make it awkward to move maintainer. There are genuine reasons to lock panels from the installers POV tho:- You are protecting the company from a malicious claim, say if the system failed to operate because it had been modified by an end user or another maintainer. Making sure the system is maintained as per any out of hours agreement and that expiry of this is displayed on the system. Maybe the system hardware isn't fully owned by the customer, it could be leased or yet to be paid off in full. There is also a possible argument that the programming of the system is the intellectual property of the maintainer, even if you own the hardware.

I would assume some local co?

Did you read the thread? They are obsolete, upgrade the system or take a risk on finding an equally or less faulty used one.

I'd say someone tried the code defaulting procedure and got it wrong or the panel is knackered.

I still think it's the G3 part that has the fault from what you have explained so far, so wiring bell as G2 like I already said would stop the fault. The other option is getting someone in that knows what they're doing.

Don't really use the wireless keypads. I know you have to wake them up before starting exit procedure if using a prox tag. Otherwise they should work the same. You say your entering the code and nothing is happening so maybe it's not enrolled correctly. Delete and enroll again?

There is a bell delay if you come through the entry route and the timer expires.

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

What are the comfort LED's doing? Have you triggered it with a bell test or giving the trigger a negative.