sixwheeledbeast

Only one I've had with this issue was the PCB had burn marks on the back due to overloading from cooked battery.

BTW "Type 2 or above" should really be clarified as Type 2 or better, i.e. PVC Type 2 or LSZH Type 1.

This is were experience from people that fit and design stuff is worth it's weight for letting them do it. There is rarely a truly perfect corner so things have to be balanced. There are other things too, like accessibility to both work/maintain it and initially install the cabling. If the sensor maybe blocked in the future by tall furniture or curtains. Passive IR will not penetrate surfaces so cars are no problem. Definitely not above a heat source. The stove/kettle most likely off if going out, unless you have an Aga type setup.

Shielded is unnecessary for Texecom, as long as it's Cable Type 2 or above that's fine.

Yep I'd do exactly like this. All the wrong colours but lets not start that one...

It may aswell be OF the amount of skin in the shot... Issue with doing a full turn around the screw is the loop binds causing it to pull round with the pan head; like with the red core here.

Don't use them any more, more modern styles have PCB mounted sprung terminals and most things are wired FSL/EOL now. You should remove enough isolation from the conductors to do a half turn around the screw. Wrap the conductor with the 7 strands twisted up together, clockwise to make a half turn around the screw. The washer is to trap the reed conductors securely, I have always gone under the washer but I would imagine it's designed to be between.

Who knows, in working order the system is designed to be tamperproof, triggering the internal and/or external bells depending on how it's tampered with. I imagine it's well past it's best and should be decommissioned or upgraded if the wiring is in good order. The power light indicates it is connected to mains power so could alarm if you play with it. Systems that have had no maintenance for many years are generally for the bin. But I'm sure you've read all this before if you've been reading posts here.

They're known for going faulty. Replace the whole system is unfortunately the only option with obsolete wireless. They were poor from a security POV due to being 1 way systems. Which is probably why they discontinued them eventually, making all the components obsolete.

Isn't it something like Code*93? They are a domestic panel you can usually live without a walk test if your within hearing distance of the speaker.

If your not sure, it's time to call an alarm engineer. The standby battery in the system will be drained and is possibly stopping the system from booting, assuming there is no other damage to the system that needs repair as well...

w3w is highly flawed. If you want something like that use Plus codes (short ones are fine if you have a town). Example:- 9C4VFX5M+647 or FX5M+647 Halesowen

Like the other post the PSU is likely faulty. These panels are long obsolete, offer poor security being only 1 way wireless and really should be upgraded.

When was it last serviced? From what you describe it's the modern version with the newer failure tone. If it's been several years since an inspection its very possible the battery in the panel is cooked, which has a possibility of damaging the panel. You now have two faults with the lid off on the sensor and it in tamper.

Most external sirens are compatible with each other but using the same brand as the panel will mean the terminals are named the same and you may get better feature compatibility. Regarding PIR's they are the elements within the pyro. A quad has a better sensor and lens arrangement dividing the detection area into four elements that all need to trigger together. For a great explanation I always point to this video. Bear in mind it's only explaining a basic PIR not a Quad. You could buy sensors years ago with twin dual element pyro's side by side. So cheaper here then...

For the cost I wouldn't buy tat sensors just to test. I would fit quads as standard for most domestic. Optex, Bosch or Texe Q20 is what I am using at the moment. They can be made compatible with all systems... unlike wireless. Higher end alarms can mostly integrate with other systems. If you know how to program them they can often do some automation themselves without any HA it's just doing the integration right. I have recently done a job whereby arming the system switches the buildings heating to frost only, for example. You generally don't want 360's unless you have to, they have a place but I wouldn't use them as standard.

They just want to throw it in and charge extra for the service and batteries. It's sad some of the industry has been going that way... Would be a nice job to wire with the boards up already. Wireless does have it's place but I'd always wire as much as I can. Keypads and Bells are always wired on my systems even if much of the detection is not. Texecom isn't as open to DIY as it was, especially on the Premier stuff. Veritas is a DIY only product now I'd say tho. I would wire a single 8 core to everything, but a single 6 core to everything would likely be fine. I just like having spare pairs for the future. Then see if you can find a company that will use your wiring.

It looks a relatively modern system so could be worth fixing and keeping in good order and using. If you have no plans to use it at all you need to decommission it correctly as explained above. Systems that never get serviced will only cause you a headache in the early hours. It's possible the PSU has popped and that is causing a burning electronics smell.

Would be similar to fitting an ACT filter pack in that regard but the idea is to filter as close to the noisy load as possible.

I would expect that to be transmitted via the mains tho? I suppose looking back we didn't clarify if it was a mains vacuum and not a battery powered one? If it's mains powered does the outlet it's plugged into effect the result? Motor suppressors are usually just a class X2 cap with a bleed resistor across the line/neutral. Something that could be tested and replaced if it had failed.

So can you isolate where the tamper signal coming from? If the tampers are global and you can easily reproduce the fault, then connect pairs one by one?

I'd agree can quick change in minutes but we've done it before, although you wouldn't have let the neighbours know... Did the right thing there, you have told them you have a working system and you don't want/expect it to cry wolf.

Bell will sound for 15 minutes while it's disconnected from the hold-off voltage. Set yourself up for a quick changeover or get up to it and remove the battery.

Is this a wired bell then?

You could use a hammer... Being serious, if you have an installer speak to them first as the system may lock out if you tamper with it. Texecom keypads can be wireless or wired but not WiFi, the small fine threaded screw is underneath to remove the front. Upon freeing the front from the backplate the alarm will sound a tamper alarm and you will have to silence and reset this when you put it back together. It's possible you will end up with a non-functional system if you mess anything up.