sixwheeledbeast

Even got classic NiCD battery not the newer NiMH...

I think I still have a clear one knocking about... I wonder if it sells.

There are planning permission issues for installers fitting illuminated boxes on most sites anyway. I wouldn't ever fit them, in fact I have removed a good few of the LED strips from these Ody X's over the years. Given some more time now from the OP I'd say 25% that I removed have eventually become flaky or failed. Pretty simple to remove, it's a clever design having it modular like that; although I suspect they may have been running a bit hot. Have seen two different LED types one better than the other. The modules that do continue to work, nicely modify into decent camping lights...

Oh a Citadel XR2... so an Accenta. Bell comes with instructions follow the ADE one. Five wires, negative strobe.

and you can mix SEOL and DEOL? Some panels set it for the whole system not per zone. Don't know the Flex.

Does a Flex support SEOL or even DP for that matter?

DEOL (Double End of Line), will never work correctly without the shunt resistor across the zone in the device. You will also not find a panel that supports much more than 3 devices via DEOL. Your current system is SEOL which you could get away with that.

You say it's not an option... but that's what I would do. Wouldn't entertain all that stuff on one zone.

Keeps all passwords in a book, won't do internet banking but has CCTV... Daily Mail reader? It's understanding what the risks are, some are lower priority than others to a lot of people. I don't trust anything with my data and if some data is required I consider what would happen if it was mishandled. Happy to not use whatever it is if there is no trust, for work I use the same standards, wouldn't fit anything for a customer I wouldn't use myself. There is a big difference between knowing you like wearing M&S dressing gowns and identify theft, but either could be possible depending on what data is collected over time.

Do not feed the monkeys...

That's fine, I must value my security and privacy much higher then... They have history, the v1 model pre-2022 found to have huge security issues and they ignored the issues then EOL instead of fixing it. https://www.bitdefender.com/files/News/CaseStudies/study/413/Bitdefender-PR-Whitepaper-WCam-creat5991-en-EN.pdf and leaking all there customer emails and API data before that...

Use the Texecom to ADE instructions in the bell manual? I replaced an L4 for another must be 15 years ago, was the last one at the wholesalers probably old stock too.

More DIY CCTV tat with security issues. https://www.theverge.com/2023/9/8/23865255/wyze-security-camera-feeds-web-view-issue

Transistorised. Handy Little Relay, Bentley or Interface Solutions are some brands we get here. Not sure were you would shoehorn these in mind you, as for our standards it should be within the tampered enclosure. I'd just take wire from straight from the controls for this reason.

White light filters minimise the risk of a FA, sometimes installations don't lend themselves to installing the best way. Especially in retro situations. Often for example on a landing the best corner is over the stairs. I wouldn't install there due to future access issues so then your usually left with facing a window. They have some tolerance but you minimise the risks just like anything else. I'm not saying a good quality quad couldn't be fine. When you have the option available you install them in the best possible corners. Which the simple version is always pointing away from sources of light and heat (the sun) and perpendicular to the movement of any possible intruder. All manufacturers instructions say this and if you ignore it and have a false alarm it's your own fault. Had a job Tuesday were some tool had pointed a Honeywell PIR at a patio door in an open plan extension, it had false alarmed every day all the week prior. The system is 5 months old fitted by some clueless spark (scribbled colours/terminals on manuals...), seems to be a mess. It's only just started these FA's but you can see from the time in the log it's happening during the day when it's competing with the sun on the back patio. Re-siting has solved it, maybe a quad could but I don't see that as the correct solution... it's just a workaround, the bad positioning was the issue and would still be there IMO. Anyway, tis true G3 is pointless at a DIY level, it's much greater chance of headaches than ever genuinely detecting what it's there for. It could also affect everything I am saying about positioning. For example, they are designed for open commercial spaces if your fitting in corners with possibly of curtains or tall furniture you may have to consider a less ideal corner. Master bed you have cupboard doors opening onto the ideal corners, this will likely cause a mask. Or if not and maybe you left the doors open you have no detection. There is more to design than the ideal manufacturers instructions or looking at top view building plans and more unnecessary issues to jungle throwing G3 components in the mix.

48 would be more than enough, it's will never be a G3 system but you seem to be aspiring to that spec. Have you considered standby time, I prefer more PSU's i.e. PSU200XP and 7Ah batteries over 17Ah. In fairness some of this is completely pointless overkill (we have to assume the risk based on DIY), your bound to have unnecessary headaches with G3 kit which is some of PJ's point. I still can't agree pointing any movement sensors towards windows/openings is in anyway correct or has faster detection, you'll also never find a manufacturers instructions to concur with this. You can get crosstalk with MW, I only fit Optex ones with anti-crosstalk but none of your sensors are close enough. I'd say it's only the "pointless" hall one with any chance of MW leakage outside the protected area, I'd also assume K band MW which has less wall penetration.

Analog telephone adapter

Pointing sensors at windows is the exact opposite of how sensors should be fitted. PIRs or DT's is a meh issue, if installed correctly I don't see why not. I'd spec Optex quads but I don't see an issue.

1) possibly, no guarantees your going to get it to work, all the risk of having no alarm. 2) You could try an ATA, no guarantees that will work but less chance of damaging the system.

I disagree. I honestly thought you were trolling... Yes you have to tune the microwave correctly but they are all pointing into your own property if positioned correctly. No idea with the Honeywell listed but all the DT's I fit are also Quads, worth checking yes. As you say no point in a DT with one of the technologies always active.

*Positions seem sensible. Extra pointless sensor in the middle hall area, possibly? *Don't wire multiple devices on one zone and do everything EOL not DP. You'll have fun getting G3 interference contacts to work if you've never done them, probably overkill. *SC570 should manage on steel they have a decent magnet, tho it's not ideal it affects gap of contacts unless they are designed to be mounted on steel. Depends on the door, containing steel would be different from a steel door. *They could be wired in if they are clean contacts, you'd have to program as Auxiliary or something as there is no "Flood" zone type. *You'd use a "Viper" shock sensor for doors and windows, something like a VIPER or Impaq. Consider risk of external false alarms like bird strikes. Why Premier 88 over a 48? ComIP for programming?

I don't go anywhere near Hik myself. Most of the people looking for help on here from ZA have been using Texecom with the occasional Honeywell Galaxy so both must be options out there. Paradox is more of a US/CA brand so not known in UK/EU markets like Texecom or Galaxy.

You want the cab to either stay on the wall or come off as a whole unit, not shear apart for the tamper to be guaranteed to work. Panel tamper being triggered vital to sending a tamper or confirmed to ARC in good time for all system designs. It's not about the damage to the system often the panel and nearby wiring is likely wrecked anyway. We all know as installers, taking stuff apart the way it's suppose to is the quickest way to isolate but that would always require some knowledge and importantly trigger the tamper. Metal cab would usually have a back tamper mechanism as required by G3 but you can't put wireless in a metal cab. Your not going to achieve the standard holes your aspiring to. It's just a non-issue as well TBH, rarely can I not get cables into a takeover easily and on those occasions I'd usually blame the stupid installer that did the last panel not the kit. We are engineers I'm not aspiring to a velcro backed DIY box with no arse end for ease of cable entry. You seem to have many complaints about price, I can say for the R8 example as I fit Texe; why would they provide a budget DIY panel that no decent installer should be fitting any more with an app that they would get no ROI from... Touchscreen and apps all user driven gimmicks IMO, they drive up the price but add minimal functionality. I honestly think the functionality you get for your money is decent but much of it gets under sold or utilised.

It's nice to have stability tho, pushing out new but flaky software over and over leave people with no confidence in the product. People like consistency...however. I agree on the RCBO's topic but it's not too comparable, the new standards have forced this and old sparks just want to do the same old thing they did years ago but houses are different. Alarm controls don't aim to improve (electrical/fire) safety in that way and there is much less margin.