sixwheeledbeast

£1000 would all be relative on what's included and what's needed for the property. Have you not had quotes from a few companies? That's difficult to answer, it depends how competent you are? Also how much you value your time spending on working it out. What about the bellbox? Is there something wrong with the existing kit? You have to get up to it and hope you don't need to smash it to bits to open it. Unless the bell in question has a fancy engineers mode.

If the sounder wire breaks you wouldn't noticed until it FTO.

First approach is to rewire if possible Failing that either soldered, clamped or crimped are the requirements for connections, contained within a tampered or resin sealed enclosure. An alarm junction box would be the normal way to meet the above. I await the suggestion to just twist and tape some of that CAT 6 on... Take a step back you have wires in the wrong places and not enough of them, have you considered wireless options?

Those plug on COM's leads aren't really designed for that, but again there's no reason why it shouldn't. You have the issue of the leads strain relief fouling the lid on the poly panel and if you pulled the cable you would damage the port and could short out the panel. Any equipment like this should be contained within the panel for tampering reasons,. The COM-IP is the ideal solution for this as it's fully within the panel and has a slimmer crossover lead molex with no strain relief to plug on within the panel. Not sure on when Connect unit is out if you wanted to wait but in reality you will fit and forget. TL;DR - Just open the lid and plug on, remove and close lid like it's designed for.

Surely the occupancy sensor is just doing it's job? Assuming there ultrasonic or microwave and not IR. If the only thing "connecting them" is the audible sound of the chime on the door have you disabled the chime to test? The occupancy sensors may need adjusting. Also who's John, the resident ghost?

Alarm cable is designed for alarms, CAT6 is designed for data. If the solid core cable breaks you'll get intermittent issues. It's most likely that an intruder will just pull it off the wall and cause more damage if confronted with a loud siren within reach. Grading would only be useful for companies specifying a system. All of these things you suggest are possible but not good practice your conform to standards. You may have issues in the long run. However, I am sure they have been done before and will be found again by engineers in the future.

Manufacturers normally recommend keeping sounder and input cabling apart. Do you really need a sounder like this? Would an extension speaker not be more appropriate? If you have the large screen keypad you can drive a speaker from the keypad.

It's per user.

Regulations require users code to be disabled on entry for monitored systems, this needs disabling in Setup Users.

Agreed

This isn't a pull up resistor, some of the more modern panels have a tamper resistor that the panel monitors for a value you would install this at the end of line for security (hence SEOL resistor). You could fit a staple (dead short) across the SCB terminals for example and not damage the panel (this would link the tamper detection out).

I'd say all looks correct but the SCB return should be in TR not NC (which I assume from the diagram to mean "No Connection" and not "Normally Closed") As for the electronics behind the panel I have never seen the panel so difficult to comment. What you have said seems right for panels of that era tho.

Ah, the good old days...

One device (sensor) per zone is best practice, it makes it easier to locate any faults in the future.

Well it's brand new so not played with it yet. Seems to have been polished in house for a while so would expect a smooth transition. However, on any critical system that has an update, I always wait a little while to see if something comes out the woodwork. I don't mind testing stuff on the bench but for daily stuff I like stability. Sometimes you get to the point you have to release it, it's very difficult to reproduce every bespoke system during testing. I'll probably download and have a play with it next week on my bench panel.

You don't need to Link out T just make sure it's programmed as Normally Closed.

Keypad zones have to be mapped. This is Keypad number 1 so Zone 1 on Keypad need mapping to a zone between 1-24. You set the zone wiring type per zone as well.

Most things should be fine OTB for a one zone job. Test it and make sure it works.

Yes, you will need to make sure you programme the zone on the panel for Normally Closed. Assuming this is the entry door it will need to be Entry/Exit type also.

This is the best source for explaining your issue. https://wiki.wireshark.org/CaptureSetup/Ethernet I believe HP call it port monitoring on there stuff, if you want to play about with some more success.

I have tried messing with the pot before but you seem to only get a few extra years out of them. Also been to a good few that have stuck active with the circuit board red hot, more of a reason to get them replaced.

I have known older Pyronix sensors to decrease there coverage with age so it is a good idea to consider upgrading. I imagine most DT's would be suitable replacements. If your panel in double pole you are likely not to need selecting of any resistance and wire like for like.

Yes this is a known issue on older firmware panels that expander voltages are shown inaccurately too high. I have never heard of an issue with network errors, I would check the network errors on the controls are the same as Wintex and if necessary clear down and monitor.

Your first decision is to decide how competent you are, if your not certain best advise is to find an alarm engineer. Your main issue will be knowing how to program it to what you need, easy for engineers using them all day. It's likely to need a service and a new battery, you are likely to be up and running with less than an hours time for the work. Unless there's an issue.

No problem.