sixwheeledbeast

It's never too far on to have a wired system. Good engineers should have the skill to install a wired system with minimal disruption.

Yep was only clarifying why you can't find much information. No one was offering or suggesting anything. Do you mean site agent? So from your last comment, I gather this is a new build or something then?

I did answer those questions above. Also this is security equipment, so posting information and manuals everywhere puts that information in the wrong hands. I am sure you see why there is limited information about this sort of stuff. This can also cause issues if you come to DIY it with no codes or instructions.

Both Engineers and User codes will be the default values and your responsibility to change them. If someone installs a system they will provide you with a user code but keep the engineers code so only the installer can make changes.

No, I certainly wouldn't provide codes for a system that had a warranty. You could have them service it and reset the code when the warranty expires.

Supplied or fitted? Sounds cheap if fitted.

Yes, battery will be near end of life if not already. EWD batteries last longer but would be tested for operation on a service by removing hold off. Service would also include things like operational check of all devices, voltage and charging checks for power supplies, battery checks and replacements etc etc

Yep, a terrible joke on my behalf. It is normally optional Good reason to get a professional system with monitoring then? I prefer wired. I don't agree, your looking from an external deterrent. If they get in an alarm would normally stop them hanging around. A pretty light wouldn't. I have nothing against that, you take on the risk if it doesn't work correctly. Like any DIY.

Maybe you mean WEEE? How have you decided that? That's apparently what consumers want. If your alarm doesn't cry wolf and you have good neighbours, you would hope someone would pay attention to it. The manufacturer and alarm companies make more money out of you, for the convenience of wireless. Not to say that wired ones are completely maintenance free. In that case why don't you fit a fully wired system, or get a company to do it? Your going to have to replace the batteries in all the devices anyway. Depends on the system. Enforcer, I believe you can have either but wireless is not a full keypad it's just for arming. Maybe someone that fits them regular can confirm. Depends on your budget, obviously it's not an alarm therefore shouldn't be compared to one. The boxes are 12V and also you have to be careful with planning permission for illuminated boxes. Consider are you just attracting attention to your property with no dog to bark if anyone enters? I am sure I have given you plenty more questions to ask. So ask away. Have you considered having one fitted by a company or do you definitely what to take the risk on installing and setting something up yourself. I wouldn't stand there then if I was you.

BUS is another option, yes

Tamper switch on keypad 1 not making correctly? Has the system been serviced, control panel checks and battery replaced?

Yep needs iD compatible kit or a full system if you can't get it working again

No contact details in posts please. Can you PM or contact vetting to resolve any account issues, thanks.

Piezo speaker drivers are generally driven from a supply of 2-5V. Within the driver oscillator circuit this is normally increased upto 30V to increase the volume output. Although implementation of electronics and components may vary by manufacturer. They should not be a shock hazard like the strobe circuit would be, although I am certainly not recommending you poke components within your favourite brand of glowy flashy thing.

I have helped with computer problems, car problems, got stuff out the loft, changed batteries in things etc but never done any gardening.

Maybe that's the way forward, offer to walk the dog and do the garden while on a resi service.

Old menu structure with loads of new features stuffed in it's bound to happen the industry is forever changing. The only option is to replace with a new product and look what happened to Menvier.

What have you tried so far? Can you break down what and how you have tested?

I would never use Suites, they normally require timed setting for them to function properly, which i would never do. Keypad 1 and 2 for A (including a part arm) and Keypad 3 for B is the best method.

I was going to mention that, but we are in DIY.

You would have to enable quick arm to allow a single Part press to Arm Part 1. You don't have to scroll to the other part sets Code Part 2 Yes or 3 Yes would arm the other two sets.

Code, Part, Yes will be Part 1. It should show Part Armed Banner when only an Area is set, this is useful information to display; especially for monitored systems. I would look at using Local arming to only arm areas the keypad is within, this will save selecting the Areas to arm each time. You can add whatever you want if you have space for it, both expander slot wise and power consumption wise. As for the keypad situation it makes logical sense to put all equipment/devices in the area they are in.

Sounds like you need may need to use Areas and Part Arms in a different way. I don't know the layout of the house and keypads or what you need to arm. I would have House and Garage Areas, with a Part Set for Bedtime.

They are transistor driven outputs, the output will sink a maximum current of 100mA. So you can drive a device (relay) up to 100mA current between 12v and your output. If you need more current the panel outputs are 500mA whereas the Digi are 100mA

You must have an older stock of the ComIP (and therefore manual) as the Use Com Port option was only introduced in latter firmware. Part Arm banner will indicate that the system is part set so maybe you still have an issue if you are definitely full setting.