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sixwheeledbeast

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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. sixwheeledbeast
    Just turn the volume pot down?
  2. sixwheeledbeast
    Set as Bell SAB would be best yes.
  3. sixwheeledbeast
    You MUST default the panel when moving between major versions of firmware. You can restore it if you took a backup before flashing. The current panel config is damaged so do NOT take a backup now to replace your old one. If in doubt default and start again.
  4. sixwheeledbeast
    Pyronix will be the easiest to install DIY I imagine.
  5. sixwheeledbeast
    I certainly wouldn't be installing a panel without a keypad. If your router or inet is down how do you switch it off/on. Yes it's theoretically possible I suppose, but certainly not worth considering. I am sure you will find that Texecom wouldn't recommend that either, considering they recommend you use the keypad to setup the COMWifi in the first place. COMWifi units do what they say on the box, there not perfect but I prefer the COM-IP if I had to.
  6. sixwheeledbeast
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252462850129 Seems to fit your description? Bargain Price
  7. sixwheeledbeast
    So logical first thing to do is check if the issue is the device, wiring or programming and work from there. Jumper is Latch or Non-latch
  8. sixwheeledbeast
    Well I have no idea then, I have never had any issues from following the manual for the first few and must have done 50 odd now. Yes there's lots of menus to go through as options are all over the place, they have been added to the existing menu structure which is why it makes more sense to regular Texecom installers The information does change depending on what ancillary kit you fit, if you always fit the same kit it would be sensible to have a profile to dump on the panel. I don't see any reason why you can't use Wintex. The manual advises to use the keypad, possibly to avoid any misconfiguration? Possibly. I think they hope both will clear up post V4
  9. sixwheeledbeast
    Opinion? Surely tests are definitive? In an industry of self certification do we think the manufacturer specs are best to compare the loudness? AG6 110dB@1m Ody Single Piezo 109dB@1m CQR Multibox 115dB@1m Deltabell 104dB@1m These are likely to be peak values and consider the tone, frequency and mounting surface will make a difference to overall volume. Whatever flashing, glowing and noisy piece of plastic you put on the front of your building, it's likely to do it's job if wired correctly.
  10. sixwheeledbeast
    They will be different for different Grades if EN
  11. sixwheeledbeast
    I would say it's programmed for the incorrect wiring type myself. Are the sensors working have you blown a fuse, etc
  12. sixwheeledbeast
    Who is working?
  13. sixwheeledbeast
    Not a problem
  14. sixwheeledbeast
    Zone inputs should be wired as Zone inputs, so EOL DP etc etc
  15. sixwheeledbeast
    Guard Access will be on the timer if you use part arms.
  16. sixwheeledbeast
    You should use Part Arms for Part arms like bedtime sets and not areas or arm suites.
  17. sixwheeledbeast
    Simply program a zone as a latch or moment key and program the attributes to suit your input.
  18. sixwheeledbeast
    Program a zone for arming and disarming
  19. sixwheeledbeast
    http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/files/file/49-accenta-optima-gen-4-user-manual/
  20. sixwheeledbeast
    Have the battery replaced and voltages checked then power cycle it. Failing that it's likely to be faulty. Decent batteries only last 4-5 years in ideal environments
  21. sixwheeledbeast
    Optex or Takex for beams. You will need a proper alarm system to connect it too. As with a lot of electronic products on ebay, buy cheap buy twice. I would suggest you give a few local companies a call to see if you can get a good quote for a fitted system.
  22. sixwheeledbeast
    Your looking for a solution not one or two sensors to cover the whole room. These kind of jobs normally need tacticity positioned commercial type gear to be right and cause no trouble. It maybe possible to cover the room with one 35ft/90deg sensor but it's not going to know the difference between a burglar and a parrot. Also the issue of the open section rules out most passives IMO. Maybe curtain redwalls or the like, kit that's suitable for external detection. As MrH, what kit you have or maybe some pictures would also help us to advise better.
  23. sixwheeledbeast
    It sounds like the detection and design is not suitable for your application. Pet detection can be hit and miss with domesticated pets, the quality of the detector is also important here. Even DT's are likely to false alarm in that kind of environment that you describe. When I have done work in aviaries similar I have generally used a combination of active IR beams and contacts.
  24. sixwheeledbeast
    Alarm systems need to be serviced regularly or you will have issues like this. Also you may find while could be a simple fault, the system is fairly old so you maybe recommended an upgrade. You would be surprised how many call outs I have done, where a customer has done some of the above trying to resolve the issue themselves.
  25. sixwheeledbeast
    You have an intermittent tamper fault, this could be occurring for a number of reasons. The way the system is responding would be normal for a tamper fault, this is indicating that the system believes it is being tampered with and will alarm internally while unset. Do you know if the system has been serviced recently or has a maintenance agreement? If you are not sure why you have a fault you will need a competent engineer to diagnose the fault, or decommission the system if you no longer wish to use it. I would suggest that:- removing mains, hitting with sledgehammer or taking it apart and pulling wires out; are some of the worst things you can do, as it is likely to trigger the external sounders and upset the neighbours.
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