sixwheeledbeast

I was thinking more of an API to allow third party written software to receive notifications.

I would be looking to do more than replace one battery, if I had a customer complaining of an issue like this. The system would have to be detecting a signal of a similar frequency (I would guess the kit is 868?) do you have any kit running on this frequency? Do you live near a 4G phone mast? Disabling Jamming is not advised.

So other kit other than iOS and Android could be supported? Do the features of the browser differ to the apps? No plans for an API? Ding

Great when they go faulty, either eternal sleep or stay active with the LED on. If latter power them down first so you don't burn fingers on them. That's the original one with the screw top centre, instead of underneath.

Would look a lot better and connection would be secure behind a base.

Bases will be camera specific, proper name for ip box is "IP rated enclosure".

Just to clarify JW's post, I think the point may have been lost in autocorrect... If the system is armed (day or night) and the system is jammed, this will be normal to trigger a full alarm condition. If the system was unset the system would likely alert like a tamper event, so no bells. I would assume you have the installers number and it's on a service contract? Further investigation would need to be done to workout why the system is detecting a jam.

Voltage != Capacity

The new battery maybe slightly discharged but should come with at least 12.0v

Sign on the dotted line that the installer is not responsible for any issues that may occur from port forwarding? In reality the customer will rarely pay for a high end router. So you are left with a crap ISP one, ISP's will not support anything that is not there own to end users. Then most alarm companies don't want to take responsibility for service of the router. It's a bit of a tricky situation TBH, on a commercial site you can leave the responsibility to an IT dept or install your own service for your kit. Domestic is very different when consumers needs at a cost overrule security. I had a customer specifically ask for LAN use only the other day, due to not trusting remote access. I don't blame him but this is a first for me, most have no idea.

Well yeah, you are putting it outside the firewall which makes it easier to compromise but then it can't be used to pivot on to the network, in a domestic situation anyway. I wouldn't recommend it but it's an option on lower end routers.

You can use a VLAN or DMZ. That way if the device is attacked it will not compromise the rest of the network. Obviously VPN would be a more secure option. The more secure options will always require better hardware.

I didn't believe there was requirement for tamper loop on loudspeakers. I have always fitted one but I recall that from somewhere.

If you could that would be great. I can see them being useful. Both surface and flush. Interested in seeing the electronics and tamper side, I am thinking dryline boxes. Bit more professional than an old Veritas speaker stuffed in a blanking box....

Anybody used one? What's the volume and the tamper switch like?

Engineers manuals cannot be shared for security reasons. You are really going to struggle installing blind with no manual and no experience. You are either using the engineers code or the panel has a fault and will not arm. This is the important jumper to commission the mesh network, the system needs to mesh correctly, upon completion it should be disabled. Radio Expander options, normally left alone unless you need them. 16 ohm speaker is not a sounder. If it is a speaker you will need to wire this in place of the small speaker built in to the cab. This could equally cause an issue as the devices could still be enrolled on the radio expander, so the devices would not be "seen" by the panel but enrolled on the expander.

1) You are probably not enrolling them in the correct menu or while in commissioning. 2) Radio Smokes need to be powered down for a few seconds before trying to enroll again, you need to hold the button while enrolling. 3) I assume there is a fault with the system, if you have not commissioned the radio correctly you will get poll failures.

I doubt the extra volume will make much difference for a large amount of jobs. I can't say I have had a Texe bell fail yet but I recall it being a thing a while back. Do note that Klaxon and Texe are both Halma now, so I imagine would use the same electronics.

Sounds like a pretty new kit with a few extra PIR's added in. It's my preferred series of control panel and they work very well, I also agree with the wired point above. You need to read the manual cover to cover before taking on something like this, if you set these up wrong you will have no end of trouble. Don't enroll the devices off site first. Follow the instructions and pay close attention to the commissioning procedure.

Logic well discontinued. I wouldn't bother fitting either any more but would choose Veritas out of your options.

I don't like Hik, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Hard to tell from the picture but positioning looks ok. Bear in mind the higher you go the less chance you have of getting facial images.

Certainly wouldn't fit wireless from what the OP has said.

Would suggest you get a few quotes to upgrade your system, listen what they have to say go for the company you feel comfortable with not necessarily the cheapest. It's likely the existing cable could be used keeping costs down and mess to a minimum. Feel free to have a read of the posts in the DIY section, it's recommended if you want to see if your up to the task. That sort of price is about right dependant on kit and area etc.

Cable will only take 50V max. Multimeter would be my tool of choice.

Where do you buy your five sided dice?