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sixwheeledbeast

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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. They are transistor driven outputs, the output will sink a maximum current of 100mA. So you can drive a device (relay) up to 100mA current between 12v and your output. If you need more current the panel outputs are 500mA whereas the Digi are 100mA
  2. You must have an older stock of the ComIP (and therefore manual) as the Use Com Port option was only introduced in latter firmware. Part Arm banner will indicate that the system is part set so maybe you still have an issue if you are definitely full setting.
  3. You MUST default the panel when moving between major versions of firmware. You can restore it if you took a backup before flashing. The current panel config is damaged so do NOT take a backup now to replace your old one. If in doubt default and start again.
  4. I certainly wouldn't be installing a panel without a keypad. If your router or inet is down how do you switch it off/on. Yes it's theoretically possible I suppose, but certainly not worth considering. I am sure you will find that Texecom wouldn't recommend that either, considering they recommend you use the keypad to setup the COMWifi in the first place. COMWifi units do what they say on the box, there not perfect but I prefer the COM-IP if I had to.
  5. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252462850129 Seems to fit your description? Bargain Price
  6. So logical first thing to do is check if the issue is the device, wiring or programming and work from there. Jumper is Latch or Non-latch
  7. Well I have no idea then, I have never had any issues from following the manual for the first few and must have done 50 odd now. Yes there's lots of menus to go through as options are all over the place, they have been added to the existing menu structure which is why it makes more sense to regular Texecom installers The information does change depending on what ancillary kit you fit, if you always fit the same kit it would be sensible to have a profile to dump on the panel. I don't see any reason why you can't use Wintex. The manual advises to use the keypad, possibly to avoid any misconfiguration? Possibly. I think they hope both will clear up post V4
  8. Opinion? Surely tests are definitive? In an industry of self certification do we think the manufacturer specs are best to compare the loudness? AG6 110dB@1m Ody Single Piezo 109dB@1m CQR Multibox 115dB@1m Deltabell 104dB@1m These are likely to be peak values and consider the tone, frequency and mounting surface will make a difference to overall volume. Whatever flashing, glowing and noisy piece of plastic you put on the front of your building, it's likely to do it's job if wired correctly.
  9. They will be different for different Grades if EN
  10. I would say it's programmed for the incorrect wiring type myself. Are the sensors working have you blown a fuse, etc
  11. Guard Access will be on the timer if you use part arms.
  12. You should use Part Arms for Part arms like bedtime sets and not areas or arm suites.
  13. Simply program a zone as a latch or moment key and program the attributes to suit your input.
  14. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/files/file/49-accenta-optima-gen-4-user-manual/
  15. Have the battery replaced and voltages checked then power cycle it. Failing that it's likely to be faulty. Decent batteries only last 4-5 years in ideal environments
  16. Optex or Takex for beams. You will need a proper alarm system to connect it too. As with a lot of electronic products on ebay, buy cheap buy twice. I would suggest you give a few local companies a call to see if you can get a good quote for a fitted system.
  17. Your looking for a solution not one or two sensors to cover the whole room. These kind of jobs normally need tacticity positioned commercial type gear to be right and cause no trouble. It maybe possible to cover the room with one 35ft/90deg sensor but it's not going to know the difference between a burglar and a parrot. Also the issue of the open section rules out most passives IMO. Maybe curtain redwalls or the like, kit that's suitable for external detection. As MrH, what kit you have or maybe some pictures would also help us to advise better.
  18. It sounds like the detection and design is not suitable for your application. Pet detection can be hit and miss with domesticated pets, the quality of the detector is also important here. Even DT's are likely to false alarm in that kind of environment that you describe. When I have done work in aviaries similar I have generally used a combination of active IR beams and contacts.
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