sixwheeledbeast

Opinion? Surely tests are definitive? In an industry of self certification do we think the manufacturer specs are best to compare the loudness? AG6 110dB@1m Ody Single Piezo 109dB@1m CQR Multibox 115dB@1m Deltabell 104dB@1m These are likely to be peak values and consider the tone, frequency and mounting surface will make a difference to overall volume. Whatever flashing, glowing and noisy piece of plastic you put on the front of your building, it's likely to do it's job if wired correctly.

They will be different for different Grades if EN

I would say it's programmed for the incorrect wiring type myself. Are the sensors working have you blown a fuse, etc

Who is working?

Not a problem

Zone inputs should be wired as Zone inputs, so EOL DP etc etc

Guard Access will be on the timer if you use part arms.

You should use Part Arms for Part arms like bedtime sets and not areas or arm suites.

Simply program a zone as a latch or moment key and program the attributes to suit your input.

Program a zone for arming and disarming

http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/files/file/49-accenta-optima-gen-4-user-manual/

Have the battery replaced and voltages checked then power cycle it. Failing that it's likely to be faulty. Decent batteries only last 4-5 years in ideal environments

Optex or Takex for beams. You will need a proper alarm system to connect it too. As with a lot of electronic products on ebay, buy cheap buy twice. I would suggest you give a few local companies a call to see if you can get a good quote for a fitted system.

Your looking for a solution not one or two sensors to cover the whole room. These kind of jobs normally need tacticity positioned commercial type gear to be right and cause no trouble. It maybe possible to cover the room with one 35ft/90deg sensor but it's not going to know the difference between a burglar and a parrot. Also the issue of the open section rules out most passives IMO. Maybe curtain redwalls or the like, kit that's suitable for external detection. As MrH, what kit you have or maybe some pictures would also help us to advise better.

It sounds like the detection and design is not suitable for your application. Pet detection can be hit and miss with domesticated pets, the quality of the detector is also important here. Even DT's are likely to false alarm in that kind of environment that you describe. When I have done work in aviaries similar I have generally used a combination of active IR beams and contacts.

Alarm systems need to be serviced regularly or you will have issues like this. Also you may find while could be a simple fault, the system is fairly old so you maybe recommended an upgrade. You would be surprised how many call outs I have done, where a customer has done some of the above trying to resolve the issue themselves.

You have an intermittent tamper fault, this could be occurring for a number of reasons. The way the system is responding would be normal for a tamper fault, this is indicating that the system believes it is being tampered with and will alarm internally while unset. Do you know if the system has been serviced recently or has a maintenance agreement? If you are not sure why you have a fault you will need a competent engineer to diagnose the fault, or decommission the system if you no longer wish to use it. I would suggest that:- removing mains, hitting with sledgehammer or taking it apart and pulling wires out; are some of the worst things you can do, as it is likely to trigger the external sounders and upset the neighbours.

..why would I do that?

http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/profile/17660-jackbuchan/ ??

CCTV provides a false sense of security to a lot of people, the market is flooded with rubbish due to this. I wouldn't bother with CCTV from what you have said. If you consider how it would benefit your security and you'll find it probably won't. Are you going to stay up every night and watch the CCTV to react to them jimmying the patio doors? Are you likely to be able to use the CCTV to identify any crims after the event? Probably not. If you buy a professionally fitted alarm system you should expect to pay a one off fee for installation and a maintenance fee yearly. This is the same as your Yale will have only a bit dearer, because it's a more secure system.

Batteries for wireless I would expect to last the year in most situations. If the thing has been sitting on a shelf for a while and you used the batteries that came with it maybe swap them. It could be mounted on the edge of it's range or there is something in the middle blocking or causing interference. Try resiting it closer to the main panel to see if that resolves the issue in this case.

That's only the encryption the unit will function correctly without it. (I don't agree it should, but that's another story) You make the app generate the key and type the Hex into Engineers Utils. The manual refers you to the full manual to do this, I recall.

Doesn't surprise me, been there before. You shouldn't be embarrassed it's not your job. Take pride in the fact you'll get to fix a scruffy job.

If they think it's the keypad at fault without checking in the panel or the fuses I suggest you look for help elsewhere. Yes, this is the place to ask questions. I would assume that "making matters worse" is referring to taking the keypad apart when that wasn't necessarily the issue in the first place. If you are uncertain what you are doing you maybe best to have someone look at it anyway. Even if you fix the fault there maybe an underling issue waiting round the corner with a unmaintained system of that age.

To me it sounds like initially there may have been an issue with the external sounder tamper, followed by poking about in the keypad has blown a fuse. Either way it's possibly repairable but most places would sell you a new system to get it up to date. Wiring could probably be reused or most would throw some wireless tat in.