sixwheeledbeast

I wouldn't worry about that, they're unlikely to be put back in service.

I think the tags are the same for the powermaster and the powermax. They call them Chicklets. Yes, if you default you have to re-enroll everything.

default the panel and make sure you put the default pins back to where they are suppose to be.

Maybe read my post again then...

Who decided it wouldn't work and did they explain why?

Had issues with the tags on these before. Deleting all the tags and enrolling them in installer mode normally does the trick. Assuming your tags are compatible.

Why is everyone scared to fit quality and charge for it. You say overpriced, I say a quality product that does it's job well and had no issues. Compare that against hassle you will get from the cheaper end of the market and it makes sense.

I can't stand Hikshite and certainly wouldn't recommend for monitored sites. Personally, Smartdisc > Distribution Amp then the Barix units to pole, decoder with built in Amp to drive the horn on the pole. Can drive 2 x 25 watt, 8 ohm imp.

I read it that way.

Had to use a few in the past wouldn't touch any of the GJD offerings. SD3 if I had to fit one. Maybe worth updating the controls and looking at app based tat.

I am sorry but you can't say 'with all due respect' then take that tone. All the advise you have got so far is spot on, there is plenty of piss taking and trolling on the forum but I don't see any going on in this thread, yet. Please be aware most of the people that have responded to your thread have many years of experience, both within the industry and posting here to DIYers. Your questions are currently a bit vague, hence why people are suggesting you find a proper installer. Maybe if you break down what you need to know if you are certain on a DIY route. Yes, if you wish to swap your panel for a Premier 24 that would be fine, but you may find the issue is not the panel. If you wish to take on installing the COM modules to the Premier you will need good IT knowledge and be able to understand firewalls and port forwarding. As I say there are plenty of threads within the DIY section that have had DIYer's asking for help with there installation over a period of months to get a partly working system. They are worth a read, many questions have been answered time and time again.

R8 is pretty basic but fairly robust. There is likely something wrong that a competent engineer would be able to repair. Good bit more to fitting alarms than sticking equipment on coloured wires, consider what you are taking on and have a read through the threads on the DIY Installers forum.

Yep, red ones where mostly pre-prod freebies to stop people moving to Castle or Texe controls. I still have a Red M1000 at home.

This is the point at which most people would walk. Something like this needs to be professional and fitting cheap will cause hassle in the long run.

Not far off it's 30th birthday party. I am sure I have seen 87 on the service sheets of ones still in service.

I did read your later post correctly. I was explaining the reasoning behind my initial post. Maybe re-read what I have posted as clearly the point of calculating standby time has gone unnoticed. There is no "spec" for the panel, merely some information copied from an old manual that is irrelevant to the point I was making above. Either way running the second bell as SCB would be the correct choice IMO. You would have to measure the temperature of the cab with it shut to be certain. Can't imagine anything much above 30C even with poor air flow. Probably not. Probably yes. I am You shouldn't be loading it anywhere near maximum rating, as above. I have already said, significant extra current will not be drawn from the bell trig for the extra sounder. Plenty of experience with them, from the jokes above you can see most would have it heading for the skip. Maybe, I wouldn't try. There pretty bombproof from experience. An additional PSU like explained Eh? How does that change the system output current. You can draw approx 1A from the panel, that would be the total of all the powered devices on the system. Anytime tl;dr - I would suggest you stick the bell up in SCB, make sure you connect your tampers between the bells correctly and move on to the next job.

Yes, it would be 8 for pre-EN. However, I was making the point that you can't just load a panel up to the maximum the PSU will take or the maximum from the manual then expect everything to be fine. There could be a 1.2Ah battery in there for all we know... The bell trig shouldn't have much extra load so you shouldn't overload the TRIG output. I wouldn't have two SAB's on any panel without additional PSU TBH.

You haven't thought about battery standby time for whatever battery you have. Would it last 12 hours with one activation on your standby battery?

Any reason? If it's reliable and flexible enough to use from domestic to 640 zones, it seems an obvious contender.

You seem surprised?

Always liked Giugiaro designed vehicles especially the Italian models all very boxy shaped but IMO had there charm. There is a bubble at the moment for that era but if they last long enough to go beyond classic and become a rare classic in mint condition they will keep there value.

Give the keypad a clean up, new battery, programming manual. You'll have all the mat switches and racals back on in no time...

The Evo2 was after Group B era, would have to be Martini White over Rosso Red.

Nah, good winning well designed car but never liked the look of them. 6R4 and 037 for the higher class, 205T16 and R5T in the lower class. They all have crazy aero but don't spoil the look of the vehicle IMO.

Feel free to ask for advise re any quotes you get.