sixwheeledbeast

If that's how the sensors are wired they are not wired correctly for EOL We can't see the labels on the terminals or the DIP switches to see if there set right either. All zones need to be Double Pole/EOL. I assume your using an Elite 24? You need pair for power and one other pair across the Alarm and Tamper, look in the detector manual for guidance.

I can think of two notable jobs like this, both related to a fault on the tank in the loft. One leaked into the master bedroom onto the bed, the bed got so heavy it ended up in the front room. The other less damage but a good foot of water in the hall, neighbours spotted it leaking out the front door. Both where away on holiday water had been running for days. Also seen where a rat had chewed through a blue plastic main in the cavity where it entered the property, that made a mess.

I'm not one for leaving white goods on unoccupied but fair point, I wouldn't think they use more than the "bath full" I mentioned tho. I am also imagining it would be "detecting" a set amount of continuous flow BTW. Been to a good handful of them before.

I always thought that water meters or mains supply to the property should have a solenoid device that stops the water after a continuous bath full. Maybe a manual one hour override if your using a hose or what have you. It's less common for a tank in the loft to leak while away or un-tenanted as rental properties should be switching to condensing boilers now.

Your rarely more than five miles away from a pub on Anglesey, maybe they should setup doing monitoring on the side. The keyholders will probably be at the bar if the alarm activates anyway so saves on the phone bill.

General rule of thumb? Medium value vehicles, all you need is a transit full of blank keys and a OBD key programmer or a way of getting into the keysafe. I'd say G2 with G4 signalling, have you asked what the insurance want?

Was he trying to wake the whole fecking island up?

I assume the alarm hasn't been serviced for a while then?

7.8 - 16Vdc drawing 135mA Coax or UTP and baluns I would assume for video. Alarm cable for the alarm, and UTP for audio. Looks like it's for covert CCTV use. Are you sure this is what you need?

Read and follow the manual carefully in order.

I don't. I do agree tho, generally people would have a new car or phone every three years, many haven't had there alarm looked at in that time never mind upgrade/repairs etc.

Gateway is the IP of your gateway, DNS is the IP of the DNS server. If using a BT router these are likely to be that. Probably not advised if you have no networking skills. I can only suggest to follow the manual carefully.

Probably No

for the pics JW. Tamper button looks secured by metal tangs to me, DD. I think I would use them in a new build/rewire scenario, probably stick to CQR Alto for other stuff instead of the surface box option.

If it's open then it's likely a setting in the app or the settings in Program Digi then.

Have you checked the port is open and working?

Fitted a couple of Rick O'Shea smokes the other day. I quite like them, they are like having stand alone smokes but with the added benefit of the wireless. I could see them being used for retrofitting in very small domestic max 3-4 points, even if the mesh drops off you have stand alone protection. Would be nice if there was option for external power tho.

It sounds like port forwarding, I would assume the router isn't setup correctly.

I was thinking more of an API to allow third party written software to receive notifications.

I would be looking to do more than replace one battery, if I had a customer complaining of an issue like this. The system would have to be detecting a signal of a similar frequency (I would guess the kit is 868?) do you have any kit running on this frequency? Do you live near a 4G phone mast? Disabling Jamming is not advised.

So other kit other than iOS and Android could be supported? Do the features of the browser differ to the apps? No plans for an API? Ding

Great when they go faulty, either eternal sleep or stay active with the LED on. If latter power them down first so you don't burn fingers on them. That's the original one with the screw top centre, instead of underneath.

Would look a lot better and connection would be secure behind a base.

Bases will be camera specific, proper name for ip box is "IP rated enclosure".

Just to clarify JW's post, I think the point may have been lost in autocorrect... If the system is armed (day or night) and the system is jammed, this will be normal to trigger a full alarm condition. If the system was unset the system would likely alert like a tamper event, so no bells. I would assume you have the installers number and it's on a service contract? Further investigation would need to be done to workout why the system is detecting a jam.