sixwheeledbeast

There still could be quality issues even with the "same" firmware. The firmware just like the hardware could have been RE'd and loading official firmware may cause buggy behaviour. There are copies of all sorts of electronic stuff, sometimes they're so convincing you only find out when it goes wrong.

It happens

death traps?

It is posted in the Public Gadgets forum...

Must still have a tamper somewhere.

Fully agree, I have said it before. Devaluing the industry and being beta testers for consumer kit.

I don't believe there is a regulation to specifically ban them in built up areas. All the domestic blasters I have fitted have been indoor, blasters are easily defeated so they have to be mounted hidden and out of way. The only issue I could see sound wise is neighbours complaining to LA over excessive noise pollution, either because of the volume or if a fault occurred and the blaster ran with no timer.

I don't do social media. My opinion is it can work if you have someone looking after it full time, if you want low maintenance don't bother. Advertising on the internet is a whole ball of SEO and a half decent website. Just having a website is enough if people wish to find you.

The alarm should be design so you can't defeat it by disconnecting it. You will need to remove each device, the bell will ring out while you remove it so take some ear defenders up the ladder with you.

You need at least four cores for an SCB/SAB. If you do have four you will need to check they work.

I don't understand why you would make a system less sensitive while the site is unoccupied. As for using the fire sounders for security, I just wouldn't.

Hi, quite a long first post. Am I missing something here, why is the intruder triggering the fire alarm? Forget all the technical side for now, what does the consultant want/expect to achieve by linking the systems?

http://www.texe.com/uk/products/range/fire-detectors/

Good to know.

Chav sign with no planning permission who'd do a thing like that?

Fully agree about anything would be better than nothing. It's useful to have all the information available, let the OP decide on the risk.

There are other caveats with using the intruder alarm, standby time being one of them if I recall correctly.

You shouldn't have two batteries on Texecom controls any more only the PSU's. Splitting battery output without separate monitoring doesn't conform Texe have a battery splitter but only works on pre-Elite. Will have to look at 10Ah batteries maybe handy on some jobs. Failure rate on 17Ah's unacceptable. I believe they accumulate lead sulfate quickly when charged on an alarm panel, I have recovered a few failures (IBT read ~7Ah) with a motorcycle battery conditioner, they're now in a UPS.

Surely they both have specifications of dBA@ 1m? An current consumption

We didn't know what the property was from the OP. Yes, I have serviced many a fire alarm in domestic properties, however all have been detached properties of various sizes. Mr. H hits the nail on the head as usual, should really be mains interlinked. Mains interlinked would be installed with 3C&E mains cable. Would use Alarmsense over Twinflex, DD.

When I say "working" I don't mean the LED's, do they operate correctly irrespective of the LED.

Are they working at the control panel? The dim one maybe the plastic LED prism missing from the cover? Not used them in a while prefer other sensors.

Or a fire alarm system.

A quick look at the list and there's more than I would put on one panel, would have used a power supply expander. Do you have expander units or is everything crammed on that panel. You also appear to have no external sounder or have some of the list missing. As for your question it's not as simple as listing the parts, we would need to know standby and alarm current for all the components or the system. This is an important step to commissioning the panel upon completion.

No bad press? https://ipvm.com/reports/the-hikvision-hacking-scandal Available everywhere, ADI, DVS, Norbain, Maplin...