sixwheeledbeast

I can't stand Hikshite and certainly wouldn't recommend for monitored sites. Personally, Smartdisc > Distribution Amp then the Barix units to pole, decoder with built in Amp to drive the horn on the pole. Can drive 2 x 25 watt, 8 ohm imp.

I read it that way.

Had to use a few in the past wouldn't touch any of the GJD offerings. SD3 if I had to fit one. Maybe worth updating the controls and looking at app based tat.

I am sorry but you can't say 'with all due respect' then take that tone. All the advise you have got so far is spot on, there is plenty of piss taking and trolling on the forum but I don't see any going on in this thread, yet. Please be aware most of the people that have responded to your thread have many years of experience, both within the industry and posting here to DIYers. Your questions are currently a bit vague, hence why people are suggesting you find a proper installer. Maybe if you break down what you need to know if you are certain on a DIY route. Yes, if you wish to swap your panel for a Premier 24 that would be fine, but you may find the issue is not the panel. If you wish to take on installing the COM modules to the Premier you will need good IT knowledge and be able to understand firewalls and port forwarding. As I say there are plenty of threads within the DIY section that have had DIYer's asking for help with there installation over a period of months to get a partly working system. They are worth a read, many questions have been answered time and time again.

R8 is pretty basic but fairly robust. There is likely something wrong that a competent engineer would be able to repair. Good bit more to fitting alarms than sticking equipment on coloured wires, consider what you are taking on and have a read through the threads on the DIY Installers forum.

Yep, red ones where mostly pre-prod freebies to stop people moving to Castle or Texe controls. I still have a Red M1000 at home.

This is the point at which most people would walk. Something like this needs to be professional and fitting cheap will cause hassle in the long run.

Not far off it's 30th birthday party. I am sure I have seen 87 on the service sheets of ones still in service.

I did read your later post correctly. I was explaining the reasoning behind my initial post. Maybe re-read what I have posted as clearly the point of calculating standby time has gone unnoticed. There is no "spec" for the panel, merely some information copied from an old manual that is irrelevant to the point I was making above. Either way running the second bell as SCB would be the correct choice IMO. You would have to measure the temperature of the cab with it shut to be certain. Can't imagine anything much above 30C even with poor air flow. Probably not. Probably yes. I am You shouldn't be loading it anywhere near maximum rating, as above. I have already said, significant extra current will not be drawn from the bell trig for the extra sounder. Plenty of experience with them, from the jokes above you can see most would have it heading for the skip. Maybe, I wouldn't try. There pretty bombproof from experience. An additional PSU like explained Eh? How does that change the system output current. You can draw approx 1A from the panel, that would be the total of all the powered devices on the system. Anytime tl;dr - I would suggest you stick the bell up in SCB, make sure you connect your tampers between the bells correctly and move on to the next job.

Yes, it would be 8 for pre-EN. However, I was making the point that you can't just load a panel up to the maximum the PSU will take or the maximum from the manual then expect everything to be fine. There could be a 1.2Ah battery in there for all we know... The bell trig shouldn't have much extra load so you shouldn't overload the TRIG output. I wouldn't have two SAB's on any panel without additional PSU TBH.

You haven't thought about battery standby time for whatever battery you have. Would it last 12 hours with one activation on your standby battery?

Any reason? If it's reliable and flexible enough to use from domestic to 640 zones, it seems an obvious contender.

You seem surprised?

Always liked Giugiaro designed vehicles especially the Italian models all very boxy shaped but IMO had there charm. There is a bubble at the moment for that era but if they last long enough to go beyond classic and become a rare classic in mint condition they will keep there value.

Give the keypad a clean up, new battery, programming manual. You'll have all the mat switches and racals back on in no time...

The Evo2 was after Group B era, would have to be Martini White over Rosso Red.

Nah, good winning well designed car but never liked the look of them. 6R4 and 037 for the higher class, 205T16 and R5T in the lower class. They all have crazy aero but don't spoil the look of the vehicle IMO.

Feel free to ask for advise re any quotes you get.

I always liked the 6R4 my favourite of the Group B era, especially in the Computer Vision colours. Not only is that thing a 5 door it's a Rover not an MG, waste of a bodykit IMO.

Not in this weather...

Sorry we can't share manuals here. I imagine it will be 5 wires, the other terminals may be for extra features. Either way if 8 core, wire them all up and you can do whatever testing at the controls without being up and down the ladders.

CQR Alto Speaker. https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/cqr-16-ohm-extension-speaker-p-4997.html

Would use an extension speaker wired to the spk terminals myself.

Agreed, it makes sense for a few reasons, so I realised at the time. a) You don't need to reset if you have a site with intermittent issues (as at G3 tamper should be eng reset) b) It displays on the keypad and log as a separate event to a tamper, increasing your information for diagnosis. c) Mask on most controls is above 10K, having this huge shunt resistance increases the threshold of any fluctuations from the reed.

Tamper loop is part of the interference reed circuit on most of the ones I have fitted. I remember a thread a good while back, had issues with both CQR and Elmdene on one site, seemed to be environmental. At least with the Elmdene there technical explained which colours did what so I could make interference reed trigger masked instead of tamper, you have no option with CQR.