sixwheeledbeast

Never tried. I have seen websites with posts about DIY leads but I don't recall anyone flashing with them.

So your not using something like a JAC-0001 onto the CDH-0001?

What equipment are you using to flash the panel then, bear in mind if it all goes wrong you have bricked the panel.

Looks powered down? It is a rebranded Accenta 8 User manual is here

If there's your panel version in the flasher software your good to go. You'll need 3.02 firmware, make sure lead is plugged on the flashing port correctly and it's detecting your COM lead. Flick switches and buttons as required via instructions.

I would use Client-Server distribution and secure the system using higher end equipment (DVR Router Firewall etc) with these I could utilise VPN's and VLAN's. If it was not a requirement for remote connectivity I would disable it.

The distribution architecture is irreverent really.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exploit_(computer_security)#Pivoting

There is no step by step instructions available. It goes far deeper than "DNS" and "P2P". Every network and site is different and most DIY kit is easily compromised. Security is about layers, the bigger the carrot the more layers you need.

Look up P2P networking, I'd say it's a lot worse security wise.

Locked in a basement?

Personally I would always wire if possible.

If replacing like for like yes but new I'd probably fit a P24 Poly now.

Yes it is possible your device has been compromised and that it has been used to pivot attack other devices within your network. With a pivot attack the routers firewall is rendered useless. You should at least change all of your passwords for online accounts and disconnect the DVR from the network for the time being. DMZ is a way of placing a device outside of the firewall, this may have lead to the device being found to be compromised in the first place.

Veritas is fairly solid for the money. It's basic but meh it's bells only. 19 Vac out is normal for alarms

So it has a RED LED and you can just press full? Pretty sure it doesn't have that option. Later models are Menu 00 option 3

If you have blown caps it's likely to be old and not have the one button set feature. Red LED on CPU?

I can only think is you don't have the latest firmware with an Encryption Menu then. If you are getting messages, I imagine the app is setup and your upload speed maybe an issue for the app. I can only assume you have engineers reset on.

The encryption menu is where the app generated code goes, as I have already said. Maybe someone decided it's simpler to instruct you how to "get it working" instead of advising the most secure method?

It's upload speed not down, it will be flaky with poor upload speed. User number and code is for the smartkey yes, you should be able to get the keypad either way. The encryption code is not required and will be easier to setup, however, as with all encryption it's there to protect the data you send which could be MITM attacked.

Interesting, they normally recommend an IT bod. Clearly something is not right somewhere, but if they logged into your panel then the connection is fine and the panel is programmed correctly. I would say it's something like the user code or UDL code is wrong from what you have described.

Sounds good. Encryption is generated in the app then entered into panel Encryption menu.

I wouldn't use Area Arm Suites for this. In screenshot "area3.jpg" Area A Arming Mode is Timed Exit not Entry/Exit.

Area A Arming mode isn't Entry/Exit like I said earlier

Follow the instruction in the manual, if test call fails try changing polling time to 1 min, wait 10 mins then see if this has changed to 15. If yes, test should work, if no something is not setup correctly.