sixwheeledbeast

Always best to face a DT into the property and make sure you adjust the MW range correctly.

It would cost more to return and replace than fitting one in the first place.

You can always go the cheaper option but it's you that will be attending the false alarms.

You can't have a inbound service through the firewall without an open port. Be it Yep, possibly the intruders may have gone if you are thinking of a Police calling system, in a way it's done it's job. You can have monitoring without Police response, the security with monitoring is in the fact the site is polled regularly. If someone cut your phone line, for example, the monitoring station can alert you. You can then action appropriately yourself. They are Com Port modules and plug on. Cheaper components. Yes you are more likely for drop outs and it's another local attack point. I'd use 8 cored cable as standard, spares and reducing voltage drop. You only require four cores for keypads.

Never angle PIR's downwards they are all designed to be mounted perpendicular to the floor This is no work around. Average alarm monkeys seem to struggle with port forwarding, they are trying to make it easier by using uPnP. Therefore, Texe hope to reduce the hours of technical support time. It's not service downtime you need to worry about, it's attack downtime. Wouldn't have bothered they look nice but another gimmick IMO LAN if you can wire it, there is a reason the WiFi is half the price. Pure copper none of this CCA rubbish. Must be marked up as Type 2 now IIRC.

Huh? If you know what you are doing, maybe try researching port forwarding for your router. The main benefit of a professional installer is the option of "proper" monitoring, the connection is polled and any issues are sent to keyholders. Your app connection is only as good as your broadband, no phone line and you have a bells only system with no indication that connection has been lost. Not a lot of people realise this when they look at DIY and apps.

Downstairs toilet probably a non issue. Conservatory would need a DT or a special quad. Garage would need to be DT also. This is incorrect, you can use the app but there is no auto port forwarding so you need to setup router. You may get away with two live boxes on LC mode, you will need to do all your measurements for all your cabling and current consumption. They are extra but not needed A plug on digi Just bear in mind the app is not guaranteed to signal you, may work most of the time but can be compromised. Us old skool engineers have the skill to drill up behind the coving and fish the cable through

Clearly not, otherwise he would have given up by now. Do DIYNOT verify members for Trade? How can you make such a broad statement from your experience here? Minimum spec without visiting site would be every room on ground floor and landing with a sensor, any entry/exit doors have a contact. I would agree to wire as much as possible and I wouldn't be bothered about the app. If using two wired boxes you will need extra PSU, and be aware that ill illuminated bellboxes may need planning permission if branded. Use one wire and one zone per device for wired stuff. I think I answered everything...

If we are talking Texecom PC software then if your lucky the CD will be with the panel. The cable will come from a wholesaler. When fitting pro gear for DIY the issue will come down to availability of stuff like this. If everyone could access all the information for all alarm systems, this would facilitate methods to defeat systems easier. Pro installation manuals and software are generally trade only. It is not easy to gauge the skill level of every DIY'er that stumbles upon this alarm geek forum, so take any criticism with a pinch of salt. Only you will know if you are capable of the task in hand.

Nest camera app £8 a month.....

We are all mind readers here in the mod team... Yes the app will be updated and the firmware for the panel will be updated with it. http://www.texe.com/uk/technology/connect/ Buttons work well and keep cost down. I have fitted a few KP160's they are just a gimmick IMO; much like apps, but that's a different story. You need to decide if your DIY'ing or getting an installer in before the forum can help further. Which kit is all irrelevant at this stage.

Re: Texecom app, it is a bit lumpy but it works. The plan is to overhaul the application in the near future so you could firmware update your panel and use the new app when it's released.

Bosch BluLine or Optex, would be my brands of choice. Wouldn't fit a sensor without sealed optics.

0 for resistance on manual range meters is likely to be Out of range. 1 will be open circuit, Infinite resistance.

The soldering and that transistor bodged on the back screams quality...

Alarm cables have multiple conductors so maybe testing in pairs would be better than probe extension leads... Fuse taking it's time to blow is likely to be high resistance short of some sort or intermittent fault which would be harder to diagnose.

Well, need to work out why the fuse is going. A multimeter and testing the wiring and current against your as fitted readings would be a good start. If you can isolate it down to one run you can then prove the cable or the equipment.

Another huge DDoS attack today, took out Netflix, Twitter, Spotify, AWS and The Guardian. Amazing how the top hit was the article in the Guardian... Dyn is reported to be the focus of the attack, targetting DNS services is likely to affect a larger amount of the internet. http://securityaffairs.co/wordpress/52544/breaking-news/dyn-dns-service-ddos.html https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2016/oct/21/ddos-attack-dyn-internet-denial-service

No Carbon Required, as above. Try and use colours that scan well if you plan to scan them

NCR is surely best for a starter company. Cheap scanner, back up on computer then shred them. Look towards improving as your client base increases.

Register as an installer with Texecom

Any reason why you think that? Sounds like a successful first step from what you have said.

I believe transferring any security qualification you may have is the same deal. It's more like the American/Canadian market than the UK/EU market when it comes to security, from what I have been told.

That's made it worse...

That wasn't exactly my point, but I understand where you are coming from. How can you prove that the supply and cable is ok before you bin the detector without your meter? You have to do your best to prove the equipment/cable after a F/A. Many seem to blindly swap it out and feck off. I'm sure I have mentioned before I have been to calls were three different engineers had been and swapped the same sensor after false alarms over a month period not even thinking to check for a cable fault. Look at it from both ways. If you don't find an obvious issue you are normally best to swap it. You will be back again, if there is an issue, but this time not earning anything.