sixwheeledbeast

Unlikely, but again need to test these things with a meter.

If the system was on engineer reset for tamper events then the installer code will need to be used to reset the system. It's possible you still have a fault with the charging circuit or the standby battery, which needs testing with a multimeter.

You'll get this thread highlighted when you login tho, or you may even get an email if you have that enabled. @MrHappy@norman

Part set delay? or full system set aswell.

DIY homeowners get all het up when they feel entitled to an engineers code... * The programming of a system is owned by the programmer. The code protects the programmer from liability that programming was tampered. * It's part of the regs that an end user shouldn't have access to the programming parts of there own system. You are more than welcome to serve your time as an engineer to learn how to fully program a system. The fact you think an alarm systems important feature is push notifications is concerning.

Better not mention the lead paint then...

US police enforce warrant to Ring LLC for footage. https://www.politico.com/news/2023/03/07/privacy-loophole-ring-doorbell-00084979

If it was sold with a working alarm system then take it up with estate agents. Something that should be checked when moving IMO. No-one is going to come out and make it audible only for free and regulations require it to be programmed like that for signalling. A working system will always need maintenance. Some people find someone to throw whatever junk in, annoy the neighbours when it doesn't work and bin it when it breaks. Many just don't realise it needs maintenance until its unreliable and the electronics are now burnt out. Shop around, I would say what you have been quoted for maintenance is over double what I'd expect.

I would argue it's as likely if not more likely to happen. Internet stuff has 24/7 uptime and can be accessed from anywhere in the world with minimal interaction. A kid throwing brick would need to choose your house out of all the other houses in the village/town/city. Point being security is all about layers against risk, if you have a backdoor in the layers what's the point in paying for the outer layers... Someone maybe able/willing to takeover your system and make it audible only clearing the errors and allowing user reset but if you need to replace it just do that.

If you want the system replaced professionally then you don't need to do anything with the existing system. They are not designed to be easily disabled. If the system design is fine then wiring and detection could probably be re-used. The installers code is not for the user mainly due to liability no installer with any sense would do this, for this reason it also doesn't conform to standards. Issue with integration is what the system can control, if your HA was compromised would they be able to disable the alarm. Most have there own app now if that's your thing.

Not worth a battery, open up power down. Putting a new battery in a panel that's not charging would "fix" it for a week or so.

Shouldn't have been fitted like that, maybe if it had it's own way in the consumer but not on the lights. The state of that consumer unit who knows what fun the electrics are.

The system should have been installed with a fused connection unit adjacent to isolate the mains from the panel.

If the alarm system is completely powered down when you have no power then both the usually external siren (SAB) and internal standby battery are faulty and need replacing. Replacing the external siren usually requires access, replacing the internal battery requires a multimeter to check the system is not faulty and charging your new battery. Anything less than this your not necessary going to have a working system. If you don't want it disturbing the neighbours do them a favour and just power it down until it's fixed properly.

So take the example of your Wyze stuff on your network it will be using your internet even if it's wireless... If something like this happens (and it likely will) it's then the issue of what they can damage or pivot on to during the breach. On a domestic site like your home there is less to gain maybe you get included into some botnet for a bit or your devices/electric is used to mine bitcoins for them. You probably won't easily notice and the devices continue to do what you need, I personally wouldn't want this breach but most aren't tech savvy enough to know or care. It's going to be mostly just your family's information to breach; unless your working from home, that's another minefield... In a commercial situation the IT dept need to protect against this, these situations may leave attackers an option to poke about on all the computers and servers on the system. Potentially gaining private information that they are required to protect by DPA/GDPR on behalf of other people. Not to mention other business plans or whatever you wouldn't want public. I can understand this may seem frustrating your trying to do a decent thing but it seem like brick walls everywhere. I am thinking you need a few people onboard with some tech knowledge, maybe even a webdev. Something like... A RasPi with camera module, 5G contract USB dongle, have it upload stills or small videos of just activity from your Pi's to a remote server and the webdev could tie it all together into a website for consumption.

It's not simple to do securely hence why it's not common. People don't realise how the things we plug into our internet work or how exploitable they are. A device that sits on the network that sends data outbound and can be accessed inbound is a server. Every server has a chance to be exploited in some way, some kit is much more secure than others. IT bods job is going around making sure this exploiting doesn't happen and minimise risk to data leaks. In basic terms having a dedicated connection to the internet means only devices within that connection would be hackable. Maybe you should look at a RasPi, but there is a lot to learn. You don't necessarily need to use a service, you could host the service if you know what you are doing.

> Do we really want holes in our IT systems for the sake of wildlife cameras? > Do we really want to add more maintenance to our systems for this unknown kit? > Can we trust this person to have access to this information?

You fit your own infra unless agreed otherwise. If you use shared infra, minimise grey areas by having a clear cut as to who maintains what. An IT dept are unlikely to let you punch holes in there firewalls for your kit.

disconnect the wiring.

Ear plugs and a ladder then hope you can open it without damage or you'll need a new one.

I would prefer to re-use the wiring if the installation and it's wiring looks decent. Wireless varies greatly based on manufacturer, all devices being "two-way" or "mesh" are the key things. No point in sending wireless messages and not knowing if they arrive. You have to factor in wireless kit is more expensive and ongoing maintenance will be more expensive due to battery replacements. I wouldn't necessarily be put off by a rewire if required. With a decent experienced engineer and depending on the property intruder rewiring can often be done with minimal disruption.

Upto 13.9Vdc is what I would usually consider fine, but this is all part of servicing to make sure the voltage regulator is still ok. It's down to design, you need the headroom from the regulator to charge the battery correctly. Transformer output will be around 19Vac for example. PIR's are all different but usual working voltages will be 11-15 ish. As long as there isn't a random device, junction box or other joint somewhere, paint by colours should work fine.

If you want to not have a tamper that's up to you. It should have been used for all the zone wiring but as you can see will somewhat function without. Need to be certain there are no other contacts on that wiring, if that's what your doing.

Regarding the door contact, you would need to have at least a working 6 (or more) core cable to the location. Door contacts maybe only 4 core.

I would always fit Quad Element PIRs as standard. False alarms may not be related to the PIR's, although looking at those old Pyronix things I swap them anyway... Testing the panel with a multimeter for any issues would be the first job, standby battery issues, charging rate etc. Then all the PIR wiring resistance itself ideally compare to as fitted values. Any security movement sensor would do but you get what you pay for, I look for Optex and Bosch for example. The panel has the wrong lid screws in which is often a concern about the history of who has been poking about in there... What looks like dirty heat marks on the top number row and on the wall top right could be a sign of failing or overload.