sixwheeledbeast

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BT_21CN

It's a shock sensor so I assume you have tried rattling the windows and then checking which number? Omit it using the instructions from the user manual. This is an engineering function but that probably isn't the way to go about this. Yes, if there is an engineer reset for tamper you may need and engineer to reset it before you can use the system again. If you have company looking after it you should check with them for doing anything. It sounds like a hybrid system maybe a 9751? Anyway if the system hasn't been serviced for a while I suggest you get this done and have them check out the device in question. It could be the battery, it could be faulty, bird strikes, water ingress, a number of issues really but a service on the system is the first step IMO.

A bit vague but you have to watch the film to understand the reference.

This is a skill new engineers are loosing with wireless becoming more popular. It depends what the constructions is, if possible I would drill up through the lintel and aim for the void above, this leaves no holes to fill. Alternatively, Plan B, useful for drylined walls is as norm, leaving a couple of holes to fill or cover with something. Then Plan C would be chase and fill, I have an old 4.5mm HSS bit I use for that, 8 core fits in this slot very snug. I have a long 6mm drill for "Plan B" that slots through the holes in the galv edging strip, if you aim right.

Hang on we are comparing two different things here. Signalling and response to signalling are completely different. A dialler can be equally susceptible to response issues as a monitored path.

http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/31661-roller-shutter-1-or-2-contacts/

Useful if ripped off the wall and dunked in a nearby water butt...

Replace the cable. R8's don't have LCD keypads either, if it was a Premier a smartkey could be an option.

That's correct, WD's are not supposed to be mounted next to CIE for that reason.

A sounder makes a noise, a speaker mimics the tones of the panel for different conditions (Fire, Intruder, Entry, Chime, etc)

Sounds good, please do.

Static IP or a decent router with DDNS (personally Draytek) are the best options. DDNS will be disabled in AP mode as it is no longer a router.

Let us know how it goes.

Yep, I agree with all of your points. Including the parking but that's a whole different thread. Most 20 MPH zones that have been put in by Council's are unenforceable. Even if a small few are installed correctly the police have no interest in policing them and there have been reports of this from many areas. LA's all over the country have wasted millions of pounds of our money on pointless road furniture. What they also don't realise is they are harming road safety in the process.

May as well bump this old thread instead of starting a new one. More evidence of why council's shouldn't be allowed to work on the roads. Plenty more where that came from too, these are just obvious ones from today's drive.

Yep, I have heard of people damaging there LCD TV's from messing about in the engineers menu.

I have split this thread as it is a slightly different topic even though related. Companies should not share engineer's codes with customers, for liability reasons as above. They can't guarantee that you aren't going to program things out, for example. I believed part of the standards state the customer should not be able to access the engineers menus. As for a "code reset" you are defeating the point of a reset if you bypass this.

Yes for both panels. Best to get both systems looked at by a local company as above. Our list of installers is available here they are sorted by police force areas.

I think you will find all the instructions in the sensor manual. Both resistors are built in to the sensor if you wire it correctly and set the jumpers right.

I also agree it's most likely that the fobs can be programmed with the master user code and not with the engineers code. No decent company would release any engineers codes, they are company specfic and it could comprimise the rest of there customers. They are within there right to charge a call out fee to change there engineers code for the ingoing company. IMO the ingoing company should default the system and start the programming again.

Time to start selling iD biscuits for £50 each then.

Completely agree.

Correct I don't know the panel well, but I doubt it without the code to check in the menus. There is a possibility it's faulty. It possible the panel could have been re-triggering the sounders hold-off timer. This will need testing when/if you get your system back running again. Bear in mind the Council can get it removed if that happened while your away. No not really the modern systems have a timer in the sounder as well as the panel.

As always it's recommended to contact an approved company for a service or the original installer if possible. If you cause a tamper the user code will silence the alarm, which should be internal only as the system is unset. If on engineer reset you will not be able to reset the system with the user code. Also bear in mind that the engineer code can be locked, this means the panel will most likely need replacing anyway.

There's a reason for that "MADE IN CHINA", certainly the one I am playing with is (which appears to be an early one).