sixwheeledbeast

Yes, amusing for the regulars, confusing for everyone else.

Argeed

A company doing 999 monitoring with Visonic and Risco tat? Hmm, we've been there before.

It's all relative to what you need in a panel.

Ciao

Approved as in NSI, SSAIB. Obviously, there are good companies that are not approved and vice-versa.

I think your budget will be tight buying pro gear to tick all the boxes. Also bear in mind pro gear generally comes with no manuals and will be complicated to setup. Private reporting which isn't polled is useless if the signalling path fails. Also I would always fit a contact on the entry door, and go wired wherever possible. Best recommendation is to have some approved companies quote for a system.

In that case you may as well take a feed straight from the battery (via a fuse obv.) and feck the relay off. I agree it is a pain, but they are mostly based on car parts so have these muppet proof features. I believe Eco mode measures the vehicle voltage and has a threshold to cut equipment off. The idea being you always have the capacity to start the vehicle, this is why switching the ign/engine on/off quickly doesn't work. On a Partner for example you can press the dark button to switch off the screen, which will keep the radio on 30 minutes longer.

To stop spam the PM system will open after you have made 5 posts.

I expect a van of that size to have a type 017 battery, but I don't see that being an issue here anyway. I was referring to current of the LED's regarding using the existing wiring feed, so not to overload the loom. LED's should take less current than the existing festoon type bulb if you are to replace that. I was expecting to use a car type battery and not an SLA for the split charge setup. This is worth pointing out a split charge unit is designed for two automotive batteries and not our SLA's I agree I would be looking at using the existing battery over another battery myself. I still wouldn't worry about the battery as long as the lights aren't accidentally left on for days. Just for future reference have a Kemo M102 module plugged into my cigarette socket to charge my DIY test monitor SLA batteries. I still think for van lighting wiring off the vehicle would be best.

Never made anything for work, I have etched stuff in the past but prefer stripboard now. Less messy and the tanks take up too much room. You can make some good stuff pretty quickly with it. You just have to get your head around being economical with the strips. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/34295-make-your-own-noise-free-power-supply-unit/

Yep, I do agree. No problems, do let us know how you get on. Maybe with some pictures?

Not sensitive, I think people take forums and constructive critisism to heart too quickly. Purely providing some quality instead of banter. I can banter like the next tool, but if members answer every topic with pages of banter, you just phishing people off and more importantly provide no content. Worth pointing out IMO.

Well I agree the picture is a poor example but the schematic and the write up was the main content. Your more than welcome to offer a more comprehensive answer, that has options from cable puller to electronics technician. I think you underestimate the quality of the engineers here.

Yes, so after 15 minutes of the door being open the interior light will timeout Ok so I would avoid the recharging an SLA option personally, it's possible a few ways but there are better ways. Depending on the current of your LED strip you could use the permanent voltage at the rear door light to replace the bulb. The rear light unit AFAIK will have a permanent and switched feed as the rocker switch can be switched to on, unless it's different from the Traffic's I have played with. If you use scotchlock connectors (not keen on them but they are best here) they could be removed in the future easily. Failing that you may find an AUX voltage feed under the centre console or the radio will have a permanent supply, again these are all down to how much current the LED's are. Alternatively there's solar, a small solar charger with some croc clips should be easy to rig up. If you really want to go down the ciggy socket route and you are good with a soldering iron I would bash this together. http://ludens.cl/Electron/12Vcharger/12Vcharger.html Or you could buy an off the shelf 12v solar charge regulator or caravan split charger system. They are two different things and wired differently but would do the job, either easily picked up from Maplin's, CPC or online. I would consider this a PITA messy solution as the socket is used and wiring will be a pain.

Rulland, what van is it?

There are a few ways to go about this, a few questions. Does your ciggy socket stay live with the ignition off? What is your plan for the lighting? Just incase there is a better way to do the job.

Yep exactly, so you don't really need a HD-SDI test monitor is my point.

Do you not have a WP to test?

Yes, all covered here. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/forum-trade-access.html Shafted by your business partner, sounds painful!

Most guns have a power lever to adjust depth.

Maybe an external bell tamper. If you haven't had you alarm serviced for a while, you are best to locate an installer and have the system checked over.

It's proprietary so is designed for you to buy there special '1950' screwdriver.

Maybe cameras with an analogue out as well as HD would be a good idea?

Yes, I imagine the instructions show Grade 2 or basic operation.