sixwheeledbeast

Static IP or a decent router with DDNS (personally Draytek) are the best options. DDNS will be disabled in AP mode as it is no longer a router.

Let us know how it goes.

Yep, I agree with all of your points. Including the parking but that's a whole different thread. Most 20 MPH zones that have been put in by Council's are unenforceable. Even if a small few are installed correctly the police have no interest in policing them and there have been reports of this from many areas. LA's all over the country have wasted millions of pounds of our money on pointless road furniture. What they also don't realise is they are harming road safety in the process.

May as well bump this old thread instead of starting a new one. More evidence of why council's shouldn't be allowed to work on the roads. Plenty more where that came from too, these are just obvious ones from today's drive.

Yep, I have heard of people damaging there LCD TV's from messing about in the engineers menu.

I have split this thread as it is a slightly different topic even though related. Companies should not share engineer's codes with customers, for liability reasons as above. They can't guarantee that you aren't going to program things out, for example. I believed part of the standards state the customer should not be able to access the engineers menus. As for a "code reset" you are defeating the point of a reset if you bypass this.

Yes for both panels. Best to get both systems looked at by a local company as above. Our list of installers is available here they are sorted by police force areas.

I think you will find all the instructions in the sensor manual. Both resistors are built in to the sensor if you wire it correctly and set the jumpers right.

I also agree it's most likely that the fobs can be programmed with the master user code and not with the engineers code. No decent company would release any engineers codes, they are company specfic and it could comprimise the rest of there customers. They are within there right to charge a call out fee to change there engineers code for the ingoing company. IMO the ingoing company should default the system and start the programming again.

Time to start selling iD biscuits for £50 each then.

Completely agree.

Correct I don't know the panel well, but I doubt it without the code to check in the menus. There is a possibility it's faulty. It possible the panel could have been re-triggering the sounders hold-off timer. This will need testing when/if you get your system back running again. Bear in mind the Council can get it removed if that happened while your away. No not really the modern systems have a timer in the sounder as well as the panel.

As always it's recommended to contact an approved company for a service or the original installer if possible. If you cause a tamper the user code will silence the alarm, which should be internal only as the system is unset. If on engineer reset you will not be able to reset the system with the user code. Also bear in mind that the engineer code can be locked, this means the panel will most likely need replacing anyway.

There's a reason for that "MADE IN CHINA", certainly the one I am playing with is (which appears to be an early one).

Buy some sunglasses, LED's are bright. It's like getting a welding flash while it's communicating.

No contact details are allowed in posts as per forum rules, this is why it's been removed.

Sounds programmed incorrectly to me. Doubt it would be anything else.

Depends on the PIR and if you are clearing the area quick enough.

Looks like your triggering the Hall PIR while it's arming. You could do with some zone text, log would be easier to read.

I don't see how that answers the question asked to be fair. I would recommend if your in the trade you do one of Texecom's courses where you will learn how to install and commission these systems. Conf Fail and Sup Fail issues are generally poor sighting of equipment or not commisioned correctly.

Why not switch to a FOSS database management system?

Obviously

#tattogate Lmao

Texecom would be a better replacement IMO. You won't need to touch any of the kit, just swap the controls like for like.

I have heard of engineers moving out there and getting a job to find it's completely different. Hi and Welcome