sixwheeledbeast

Don't believe the Accord supports multiple shunt resistors on one zone anyway. You need a bigger panel.

Ciao

Quite likely. I would wire it all. If not feasible to wire all for what ever reason, get a good hybrid panel so you can mix wired and wireless. Personally it would be Texecom Premier with there mesh wireless but other options/manufactureres are available.

If you have a GoPro, which I am sure a few outdoor types here probably have; it maybe a good idea to change your password. http://www.net-security.org/secworld.php?id=18033

Done a few of these eyeball on modulator or TV aux input.

Not bad for the price

Yes possible but a bit more awkward to set up, hence why I still have an M series. Shunt groups for all sorts. I'd be thinking put the dialler in test/disabled mode.

Is the first picture flush mounted?

With software and manuals coming on CD's more now, I wouldn't want to be carrying a separate USB Drive around myself. Still happy with my "bulky" dell.

Next to nothing is all relative. We have to measure current/voltage/resistance of each circuit then standby and alarm current of controls. Then calculate that to last 8/12/24 hours, all one part of commissioning a system. Looks Pyronix so it shows how to wire it to a Pyronix panel not a Texecom panel. It will work but may not used the same named terminals. I assume that type of internal will use the bell tamper loop, which isn't EOL on that panel.

Seems like your panel isn't big enough for all that kit. Also the panel needs to be located in a room or cupboard at approximately normal room temperature. So no siting in a loft or boiler cupboard. Ideally spur needs to be adjacent panel so you can isolate it, or on it's own way. Also wouldn't normally bother with contacts on internal doors if PIR adjacent.

CAN is just a protocol designed by Bosch. There are several different protocols that have to conform to EOBD. CAN is still used today and used more widely then others.

DD had a link to an ebay effort, looked good and had VESA mount threads on back IIRC. On the mobile so can't search for the previous thread easy.

Sounds interesting. Well unlike vehicle electrics you spend less of your time looking for a bad earth or a faulty sensor with alarms.

Yes but would show a mains fault. You can stick a plug top on a flex for the bench test.

Sounds good, I am sure someone will pipe up if your doing something wrong. Maybe best to test bench the kit, during your first fix. Maybe, if you can upload a better res picture. The best I can make out it's a wiring diagram for a Vauxhall Nova.

Don't do this. It is best to have a front door contact and arm on "final door set".

Agreed.

Well you have your answer. I would just program that zone out with either Menu option 50 or 59. I don't like resistors in the panel. Which wrongly the manual advises you to do on some circuits, I may add. Yes. But BTW having two contacts like that will not work on an Excel.

Shouldn't need to link out unused zones, program them out. EOL resistor inline with the loop and shunt resistor across the reed.

You'll have fun wedging resistors in a SC517. You'd have been better with SC570's Also the Compact PIR's don't have much room in them either but I am sure you'll find that out too. You must wire everything on it's own zone. Also may make more sense to use your own colour code for the cabling. Red and Black for voltage and another positive and negative colour for the EOL zone loop, Blu/Yel or Grn/Whi, for example.

Yep and also has odd Single EOL options too. @Mark02 if your reading the manual you are best to use the "Figure 3d High Security Operation" diagrams and instructions BTW.

That's a useful link for a DIYer DD. The Excel is quite a basic panel and has odd EOL values. Most of the pro kit is installed EOL now, less wires to terminate and more signals down one pair and can be easier to diagnose cable fault. So really all pro's. With EOL wiring the tamper or EOL resistor is in the loop all the time so a short or open cable fault will be detected. The shunt resistor is a term given to the resistor that signals the alarm. This is shunted in and out of the loop giving the changes in resistance the panel can detect. On more complicated commercial alarms there can be many "shunt" resistors all different values signalling different things (alarm, fault, masked etc.). Anyway, going back OT most people that install EOL will buy sensors to suit with the resistors built in. This saves having to wire resistors across the terminals of the sensor. With the Excel you may not find a sensor to do that anyway. With EOL you will not need the tamper loop for the sensors, however, you many need it for auxiliary equipment like internal sounders. If it's not used it will need linking out.

Look for a company that support Pyronix controls, like the Enforcer. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/230-leicestershire-security-installers/ http://www.nsi.org.uk/directory/ http://www.ssaib.org.uk/

Hello. Firstly, you didn't say which model and manufacturer. Some more points:- *I would expect if you interrogate the panel it will tell you which battery. *Just because the PIR's are lighting up, that doesn't mean you have diagnosed where the low battery is. *It should trigger a tamper on removing any lid, if you get an alarm sounding will depend on the controls. *Batteries are all different, but probably a special Lithium one, not your standard Alkaline type. *Yes you should replace all the batteries at the same time, again these are different depending on panel. *In theory yes the PIR's can be removed and refitted, again alarm will depend on controls. I think your best option is to have the alarm system serviced properly by a local approved company, if you have the details of the installer try them first. This way you can make sure everything is working correctly and they will have all the batteries available to do the job in an hour or so. They can also give you some advise on your PIR's and the decorating. The batteries will need replacing on a regular basis so find out about service intervals and maybe a service contract.