sixwheeledbeast

Needs service, battery is probably cooked. Hopefully it's not damaged the system.

I think that's a sensible approach. Find a company that is willing to work with you doing the first fix. If you haven't started yet you can explain what you will do and they can approve it first. I have heard lots of bad reports about Sky boxes but it's probably not helpful to rule out wireless alarms completely because of this. The difference is the bandwidth and frequency is completely different. Your comparing small amounts of data on the lesser used 868Mhz. WiFi is in the 2.4-7.2Ghz ranges depending on version, higher frequency busy bands but you also require high bandwidth to stream video. Wireless can be a dark art but as a rule the higher the frequency the less wall penetration and more reflection you will have.

Some systems are mesh, as you have some wiring, receivers can likely be distributed throughout the system if it's really necessary. Pneumatic drills with decent bits fly through engineering brick or even concrete and rebar. I have yet to find a job that's not possible... Two sensors on a 6-core is possible via EOL wiring, which most systems are now. For control panels they mostly do the same stuff and every installer has there own preferred kit they have trained on, if your DIY'ing a one off it probably doesn't matter. Proper systems are not designed for installation by end users, so your not going to find reviews. You will possibly also struggle to get manufacturer support or manuals at all.

Most younger engineers won't have been born when the 9448 came out. Telephone cable is not suitable for alarms. Two detectors on a zone is equally poor practice. People come here often say either rewiring and/or wireless is not an option, but it's unlikely either is the case. I'd find a proper company by explaining your situation in a call to them, but they'll probably want to upgrade your panel before taking it on.

It was basic 20 years ago, a company isn't likely to fit a Grade 1 panel. Even complex panels are designed to be easy for the standard user functions.

Quick glance over your posts... You should protect at least the landing of upstairs. All decent systems will have a part set and if installed correctly shouldn't false alarm. If the cabling is in good order it can probably be reused. You need to decide if you are installing this yourself or you are getting a company in. Assuming from your posts you want a company to fit it... the manufacturer of the kit is irrelevant to you the company will use there preferred kit. They can support the products they sell. The usual suggestion is to get three quotes and choose who you feel most comfortable with (not necessarily the cheapest). I install Texecom but wouldn't fit a Veritas, last one I installed was likely over a decade ago. PE24 poly would be my standard panel on smaller domestics. If your stuck get your quotes, remove all the sensitive information and we can see what they suggest.

Any fault like this, it's going to come down to isolating things until you pin it down. Starting at a broader scope and drilling down. As above it's not a usual panel over here so even if it was something common to that panel it's less likely for people in the trade to know about it. I'd want to be using 8 core really and tripling up any supply voltages. Also monitoring the voltages of the PSU over a longer duration. Is this proper copper cable or CCA? If I read the OP correctly are the keypads remote from the system and the expanders all in the panel? Could there be a wire damage or earth fault on the longer wires. Could you stick everything on a bench with 1' of wire between. Any fault that disappears with just a power cycle never leaves me with confidence or satisfaction.

A single PIR should be a 6 core at least with a double pole panel. You can run two PIR's on an 8 core double pole. EOL wiring/resistors will not work on a double pole panel. You shouldn't put multiple devices of this type on a single zone, which is why you won't find a manual/guide instructing this. If you really have to reuse the 4 core you should upgrade equipment and use a BUS type device or expander.

When all the faults are clear the system beeps once and will reset, until then it will always lockout. TBH I would take the opportunity to upgrade the system reusing the wiring if that's in good order. You've knocked stuff about with the building work and have no clue how reliable or maintained the system was.

For the reasons outlined above the cable needs replacing either way, probably best with an 8 core.

The Veritas is a double pole panel so you need normally closed devices (without resistors). The Texecom setting on the Capture PIR's is for Texecom EOL circuits.

If it's not in the user manual then it must be an engineer option.

It will stop due to noise pollution rules but should re-arm itself if programmed correctly.

Well apart from the deterrent factor of a good working system, which has some correlation to reducing attempted break ins. If it operates as it should, it alerts all the neighbours (if they investigate or not). More importantly the burglars will not hang around. I've known customers were before I installed an alarm for them they had burglars spend several days making a mess of the place.

I'd take the front door contact apart remove battery, make sure you have seated the battery correctly then try to reset again. If the system still thinks the contact is in fault you can't clear down.

Firstly if you have an installer you should speak to them if you are having issues. I would need to know more about all the components of the system really. But I'll make some assumptions unless you can expand further... If the issue is the system works fine but is intermittently slow to arm, I would assume the system has several wireless devices on hybrid mode which it needs to poll before it will allow arming. Sometimes this will take some time if the mesh has not polled the device recently and it's a few nodes away. This would be indicated with a please wait "slash/bar" animation on the keypad. It's also possible something is misconfigured or not commissioned when setting up if wireless.

Is this the Verisure junk? If so it doesn't surprise me. It's not a proper alarm, same as the rest as the tat from DIY stores.

Unlikely to trigger again, but possible. Messing with it is more likely to trigger it.

TS700 I can have a good guess but never fitted that sounder... Link 6 to 7 and all the rest as there names.

You getting AC to the board?

Possible but equally could be something else. That replacement battery looks like junk TBH. Yuasa 2.1Ah or equiv.

It depends on the wattage of the devices but 80m is a long way. You have to consider other devices on the switch and the overall budget, maybe they are now drawing more current than from installation, affecting the longest run. PoE switch at the splitter point would be sensible, yes.

You have no context to my tone, if I didn't want to help I simply wouldn't reply. I have already answered some of your follow up questions in previous posts. Good luck..

Most likely the battery all along... Never seen a outright dead keypad on these, faulty but not dead with only backlight. You said "My control unit and battery seemed perfectly fine" but someone queries the battery and you check again? No idea how anyone would cross T/R terminals replacing a keypad? I agree with Al most likely you have accidentally changed the programming your not likely to have one setting flip like that any other way. For few quid more you could have bought the panel which comes with a keypad, that may have been sensible depending on age and if you suspect damage. Car battery testers can damage alarm batteries, depends on the type. ACT612 is the standard in the industry but you could do it with a decent multimeter and tests I already shared. Did you do all the other tests you would expect from a service? No point stuffing a new battery in if the charging circuit is blown, you'll just kill another one...

It will be possible, but please don't. It's annoying and unnecessary. Your advertising to everyone within audible distance that you are leaving the premises and/or if the system fails to set. Some systems have an option to flash the strobe a few times on set, that is a much better option even if it's not my preference for similar reasons.