sixwheeledbeast

2G is calls and texts, web browsing is pretty much unusable. 3G was the first step to internet browsing on mobile, it would be mostly unused for that today with modern mobiles and 4G/5G rollout. Asterisk? So converting POTS to IP, why? As I say need to get internet to site and in that case use an IP product.

Who says 2G is an issue? In the UK at least, we have another decade plus before they plan to kill it and reuse the spectrum. There are thousands of tiny 2G devices still out in rural settings that need to migrate to switch off will be slow. By then I'd be expecting to update the system. Really professional installers would be recommending a monitoring device to an ARC, that way if the GSM is jammed you have some guarantee of a message via polling, but this is the DIY section so... Texecom have their own options for GSM but check compatibility with that EOL Premier first. I'd probably consider some way of getting an internet connection at/to site and using IP if your concerned about 2G sunset and want more flexibility on kit. Old Premier's have limited support for newer IP products so you may need third party equipment if your keeping the panel.

You can't call it prosumer if the manufacturer will not provide support for it. Not saying they should as it's not. It's pretty modern so I wouldn't say its for the bin, if you know how to work it.

It it's likely working and it just needs setting up for you. Best to persist with finding a Texecom installer really. Sounds like you are entering the engineers code not the user code., if your getting that message.

Seems fair... it's certainly around the right money, will vary on region a little. No way your quoting half a day on this, even if it did take that long you quote full days, he didn't install it and may find some issues to resolve too. Won't find many installers that would install user purchased kit either, as an installer your opening yourself to warranty headaches if there is a fault. I would treat this theoretical new system as a takeover, not just a service upon next visit if you had replaced it, much more to check over, some would walk away and quote. You'll likely spend weeks probably months learning how to connect everything and program it with no guarantees it will work correctly. Feel free to browse the DIY Section here for more evidence of that, it's like a revolving door. Most manufacturers the panel apps have to be registered via an installer, don't fit Euro so not sure. There is more to the job than throwing boxes on the wall, it's a service industry not a fitting industry. You have already said you "want the benefits offered by him" but not the price of the install; you get what you pay for....

The LED diagram in the manual assumes standard LED's so you shouldn't need the current limiting resistor, but you wire it from the terminals like the diagram following polarity.

Nope put your earplugs in and get on with it, be careful not to zap yourself on the strobe if it fires up. Some sounders have an engineer hold off that you can trigger but that one will not. If your not confident how to do it, ask an installer to do it.

In the UK we would not allow showing the system status from outside the property, or even within the property without user access. It gives too much information to a potential burglar. Most standard LED's are 5v forward voltage, are you certain this is a 12v LED? They are available but worth double checking. External auxiliary kit really be using the Panel Outputs (OP1/2/3/4) on the opposite side of the board to drive this stuff, the digi outputs are lower current mainly for triggering 3rd party coms, they are generally unfused. Why it's connected to the battery terminals who knows...

Either get it serviceable for you to use or have it decommissioned. Unmaintained alarm systems are a headache waiting to happen.

More digging apparently Waitrose is bronze... https://architecturesideas.com/2018/09/15/the-global-growth-of-the-metal-cladding-industry/

Boughton (nr Chester) Waitrose is like that, I thought similar at construction. It's a brownish olive colour now, 8 years later. Took a couple of years to loose it's initial shine.

Bit like Texecom in "User Codes" menu change User00. It seems like "Texecom Lite" with a more confusing menu and worse documentation...

Get the model numbers and find out if they support an onvif profile.

No idea, but most panels you can get earth loops like this, hence a method of testing that rules it out.

How do you know there isn't cable damage and it's not looping back through mains earth?

Do tests with the contact removed on open and closed circuit, compare difference you'll find your answer. Never do tests while circuits is connected to the controls.

Option 3 is junk and not an "alarm system". You need to decide if your doing it yourself or just getting a man that know what they are doing to just do it in half a day. We can't make that decision but you seem to want the system working and you have already worked out the hard way spending money to fix nothing, installer seems sensible?

Without the plastic housing there is no insulation and it will not really help you any further. especially with it being upside down. They are push fit they have a locator but it's not a "locking mechanism" as such. Something is clearly wrong if more than hand tight. You'll likely end up damaging to get off so get new set.

They slide off. It could be the wrong faston connector size for the blade and they have been forced on. Maybe corrosion or a leak has welded them on, the battery looks warped so possible that lack of maintenance has caused this. You will need to check the charging circuit and probably replace the leads if this is the case. The negative is also on upside down.

I wouldn't be stripping the outer sheath at the entry point, which sounds like your hinting at in the post? Cable anchors for multiples, maybe finger trunking if you have a large cab and lots of wiring, agree with JW there is practical tidy and overboard. Think about if when your finished it looks like it would be a PITA to add/remove/replace something while still keeping tidy.

Nuzon HG-2500? http://www.nuzon.com.tw/exec/product.php?mod=list&cid=2&lg=E Bin fodder

OOI. Do you refurb these? Would it matter if the PCB wasn't period?

No idea, never seen one. T4 and 5 are just a link. T8 and 9 are -ve rails, one would likely be for the bell. Four top pins could have been SAB battery? One side of top pins is T6 the other is via the 1W resistor to -ve It's the era I'd expect tamper switches to be microswitches with flying leads from terminals. It would be logical to have all the field wiring on the first few terminals and the rest for the bell internals.

Wait, we had chocolate ones? You hid them well, where they behind the smoke or the mirrors?