sixwheeledbeast

Why repair the bell, it's something else to break. They'll always get hold of you if they need you...

That will be it yes.

No. PSTN stuff needs to be filtered and the modem/router would be the only device unfiltered. Assuming this is a xDSL connection. You should also beware Openreach don't like you messing with their equipment and will charge if they find an issue with it.

Just need the masking tape and yacht varnish.

The test pads are measured in millivolts, it will be the same reason Wintex shows an incorrect value, it's not a direct ammeter. So it sounds like you have may have an earth fault. Continuity between electrical earth and negative?

Texecom Ricochet Monitor View File Ricochet Monitor Submitter sixwheeledbeast Submitted 12/04/22 Category Texecom  

Premier Elite Flasher View File Flasher for Elite panels Submitter sixwheeledbeast Submitted 12/04/22 Category Texecom  

I don't like working on these things, as above they do daft things. You end up power cycling them or reprogramming them to clear weird faults. From a DIY POV you are already at the limit of your ability as you say, so your left with finding another installer. You could put another set of batteries in and hope. You will likely be able to clear most faults with your user code, arming then disarming. I would want to replace the system for something else if it wasn't as simple as batteries.

Everything on an alarm has some sort of battery somewhere, if it's for primary or standby use depends on the component and/or the system. Standard wired alarm bellboxes have a built in rechargeable pack that will trigger the bell if the power is lost. If in SCB mode it will use this pack for the bell siren in all situations.

Pretty sure the panel on it's own is about 100mA with a Smartcom probably a little more. It must be getting it's current from elsewhere, if the tests are right. Seems fair bit of kit on the panel, battery fuse in good condition, correct value? Any poly fuses hot?

I don't believe the Powermaster has a wired box option, like the old one. You would have to cable it with alarm cable and use any standard SAB from it's expander module. You will have to check the 12V output current maybe use bell with SCB mode if required.

They know Bosch will always be NDAA. Even tho it's an American ruling it's considered more and more in public sector.

Most of them I have seen either stop picking up or latch active and get red hot, lens plastic gets brittle with age too. It's just too open ended to answer, everyone chooses and avoids kit based on there past experience with it. We won't all get the same experience. Another example, many rate Risco I-wise sensors I don't, have seen too many daft false alarm issues in the past to trust fitting them. There is a similar story behind every piece of kit, it's chosen because of reliability and fitting in with how you work. A one off purchase isn't going to matter, if it works that time.

Funny that. I think the same of Pyronix. Everyone is going to have their preferences for whatever reason. It's just too much of an open ended question to answer.

That's more like how kids learn now with Scratch bit like an IDE. node.js is a whole can of worms, a good few reports of developers adding malicious things to popular libraries lately.

I hate working with YAML it's just backwards to most other markup languages, it's becoming increasingly common in config files. It's supposed to be more human readable but I just find it annoying to work with in a similar way to python. Give me some old school XML or even JSON anyday, let me whitespace where I want...

Decent places have been implementing that for a while, I would hope?

Not that hard for any panel manufacturer if you know what your doing...? Likely, why you need to continue on to crack the engineers code if you have UDL access is beyond me.

As I have already said take it down and get it working adjacent the controls. it needs to be sited where you can access it anyway. The thing is most of the trade members here have seen all this before, new members posting for months and not getting any further. We have no idea on someone's skill set, there is no persuading it's the best option depending on how much you value your security. You can't learn to be an installer here either, people can only give you some guidance based on assumptions.

Heard of a number of businesses offering extras or free stuff if a customer would remove/improve/reword a review. This isn't how reviews are suppose to work if they are to be more than an advert/space on platform... It's also impossible for these review sites to moderate this behaviour on the internet, plus they are only really interested in the internet traffic/ad revenue which pays the wages. Stick to asking relatives, colleagues or your mates opinion down the pub...

Take all online reviews with a pinch of salt and completely ignore platform any were the businesses have full moderation (facebook etc). The majority of people are useless at giving an in depth review of service because they have no other experience and business will often only ever show the positive side. Reviews are not what they were years ago, you could give/take minor criticism and improve with it. It's become just a place where people vent in public if something went wrong, or bump them as close to 5* as possible.

You'd honestly save a lot of time and get more reliable interfacing from a better panel. High end alarm panels can do a lot of automation and logic themselves, they can just lack slightly on easy user control. The main thing I don't like with konnected things are they instruct you to piggy back on all the zone inputs for presence, so if something failed you could get false alarms it doesn't conform IMO. It's designed to retrofit to old panels but it costs a lot considering a decent alarm panel can do a chunk of that functionality and output it somewhere clean, if you know what your doing.

That strobe terminal will pulse low if the system is full armed, whereas it will not if part armed. I was suggesting to move any external bell wiring from that terminal to the bell trigger instead, so not to interfere with whatever you poke in there to try to interface with it. This will mean the external strobe would only trigger when the bell is ringing, you wouldn't get a strobe flash on set if you do now. It may work with both in there but I would generally want to isolate things like that to avoid issues.