sixwheeledbeast

EN50131-2-8:2016 I would assume is the standard your referring to? If you think about it tapping a device with a screwdriver is hardly a break in, so how would that be the correct way to define if the device is fit for purpose or not? Manufacturers will have a test procedure for setting the sensitivity how do the instructions recommend you test them?

A main benefit of a wired system is compatibility

That has never been a thing. Elite manual will do for the basics, just don't expect all the features to be on the old panel. Program last two as Not Used

Systems that are unmaintained or poorly fitted will cry wolf but unfortunately there is nothing forcing people to have systems serviced regularly or fitted to any standard. There are noise pollution regulations but you would have to be regularly disturbing the peace for the council to get an order to contract someone to force entry to silence it. It's all a false sense of security IMO, at least if a traditional system with an app failed to get the message to you the system would work as expected to deter the burglar from hanging about.

Sound like a mess of a way to do it. If your too lazy to set it then HA isn't going to help much occupancy arming is flawed but I suppose you have little concern for security anyway if that's the issue. Waste of time IMO to be frank. As for the actual question you would have to interface with relays if your keeping the existing system or just bin the control panel off completely and have 12 volt supply for sensors and then closed loops from the pirs for status GPIO. It's no longer a security system with the latter option, all the security built in to a tradition alarm would be removed and simple to bypass for a burglar.

Contact your maintainer. They should have some idea what kit you have. A fuse blown would take out multiple devices and/or cause the bell to activate.

You may have two separate faults, these indicators wouldn't usually be related. Some external sounders will display faults with the comfort LED's separately a PIR not lighting up maybe a power/cable issue or faulty sensor. I doubt they are related. When was the system last inspected? These types of faults would usually be picked up as part of annual maintenance.

Just to point out yanking on tamper springs isn't most sensible idea unless you know what your doing. They can be over stretched and misalign with the casing or worst case you can pull the microswitch lever/button off if your not careful. As Mr.H knock it about see if you can reproduce the tamper is the best thing.

Welcome we have discussed this in great detail on the trade section of the forum.

In the programming menu then by the sounds of it.

On the PCB of the control panel, if no sensors light up that would be a good indication.

Stuck in engineering menu or some tamper and maybe fuse blown? Time to check over everything you have done and get the multimeter out.

Not necessarily transients could easily cause damage to the system, battery or not. I am not saying this to justify the engineers, maybe they did a poor job or are inexperienced with ancient kit, but that still doesn't rule out everything said above.

Security is a 24/7/365 industry. Your unlikely to switch maintainers over the holidays but you should have access to your current one if they are approved and it's what your contract provides. Maybe I am getting mixed up with the 800+ regarding full/home/night. If your getting entry tones from Zone 1 then it's probably not the entry timer then. I would imagine most people that have fitted them will not have programmed one in years. Personally with all the previous history you mention I wouldn't entertain trying to re-program wouldn't be worth the time for it to inevitably fail in the future.

Firstly, if you are paying for service you really should sort this issue out with the maintainer. These things are 20+ years old. Loss of programming is a sign of a failing panel the NVM should store this stuff even with power loss. The fact the battery fuse was popped in the past is worrying but we don't know the history for that from your post. Maybe a surge has caused damage that needs checking. Stuffing some programming in it and hoping will only have your ears ringing in the future. Anyway I can only imagine the entry time is 0, but been a long time since I had to mess with the programming on one. They have Away, Home and Night sets from what I recall, make sure you haven't programmed the wrong ones.

Any commercial grade panel needs to support keypads with fobs to conform with police signalling requirements. You may find they are a bit more complex to program than your basic Optima etc.

Common failure for these, time for something more modern.

If DIY replacement anything your capable of fitting and then programming, lots of stuff doesn't come with an install manual any more. Consider the time it will take to work all this out over getting someone in that could have it fitted within 4 hours all being well.

It likely won't make much difference if your not going to check the charging rate and voltages, stick it in an hope it lasts.

The L model Yuasa's have larger faston connectors, this is to allow larger discharge currents for other applications that alarm kit wouldn't get near. If the panel is capable of charging this battery then a larger capacity battery would be fine. This should be checked before replacement anyway as part of a service. You could replace the faston connectors for larger ones and use the battery in that case, but the simplest option is like for like.

It just means if someone runs up the stairs and flicks the switch you have no alarm, you wouldn't design anything like that, certainly not now. If your struggling the understand the manual it's not really feasible to guide you button for button on fixing your programming, we don't know what's connected to what. Your probably best to have the system serviced, new battery and ask the engineer to fix the programming when they come.

The first question is how have these settings broken. If the panel hasn't been serviced and battery failed and/or the panel has lost this memory on it own then it would be best to find an engineer to further investigate this. If you have been messing in the menus then it would hopefully be as simple as finding what you changed. Switch on the landing sounds like an odd old school setup, I imagine there should be a zone programmed as keyswitch.

A basic one is just alarm and reset signals sent back to an LED multi-zone indicator panel with labels and buzzer?

Sounds like a nurse call system but with wireless contacts instead, maybe a path you can look at.

Seems like it's down to what they want this "monitor" to do? Alarm, chime, status information, push notifications what's the goal? Most stuff should have zone mimic if you need to interface zone status to something.