sixwheeledbeast

HDMI devices need to support HDCP so it's unlikely to find something to support that. You may find some non security products that would work but really you would need a DVR/NVR or consider analogue options for CCTV.

You say the garage door opens with the chime, so the chime could be on a (zone) i.e. door contact or something in the garage being triggered for example. Service Tones is any alerts or system chimes not related to arming the system, so Mains Fail as an example, anything issue that wouldn't alarm but just show a "System Alert". Part of the benefit of backup and default would be the panel gets a fresh start, if something has been corrupted in memory somehow and caused an effect that isn't an option you'll never find it. Would only expect that type of thing to have happened if you have changed firmware though and the profile wasn't updated, then forced the profile to the panel. Which doesn't seem the case, I am thinking some combination of settings. It's sounds like you have a lot of custom settings that are used rarely for most, without hearing this chime tone and looking through all these settings and attributes with a fine tooth comb I can't think of anything.

Zones rather than outputs on Chime? Custom Outputs are all software inputs that you then "map" to a physical hardware output. I can't think of anything else related to the menus you mention that would have a chime option. If you can't find it, backup the panel profile, default and reprogram with a new profile. If you come upon it again you can start to track back from what you did.

Sterling 10 job there the Ultimate Symphony of panels

We get people asking allsorts of wacky things here, some are DIYers some are not. If you are getting an installer in then kit manufacturer selection will be down to them, they should have staff trained on products they fit to provide the best support. Wired will always be better IMO but I see no issue in hybrid for your purpose, radio kit will need battery replacements and could in theory be jammed. Top end kit should detect this. There is a gap but I consider it important to be partitioned away personally, security is all about layers and one software exploit that could get past every layer is not smart. It's a topic the industry as a whole is still trying to provide a solution with lots of opinions. Consumers want functionality but manufacturers, installers and insurers would have concerns with liability if a system failed to operate. Usually getting quotes from 3 places is recommended. Generally you wouldn't choose solely on price but during this you will find a company you feel the most comfortable with providing your requirements.

More used to the keypad over Wintex so not sure where you have done this. It won't be related to the Custom Output but most likely Control Timers as they can have a Chime option. On the keypad it's shown as a star in the Control Timer menu toggled with the Chime button.

Are you planning to do this yourself? It makes most of your list irrelevant if so. Your limiting your options if you want a system with an app that isn't fitted by an installation company. You wouldn't integrate alarms and cameras like that, any system that false alarms is obviously pointless and probably fitted incorrectly. Sounds like you think you know what you want but haven't considered how it "should" be done.

Run the cable drill through later. Loft's are bad places for control boxes, wild temperature changes and access issues.

Well in that case it's your system. Who has the engineer code is irrelevant to this. I'd say sounds cheap in that case but will also depend on area.

Weird setup to have a call out charge for the service if your on maintenance? I would want to fit my own batteries (as an installer) that way I can use a brand that is supported by the manufacturer and offer some warranty on my work. Generally maintenance would be an annual inspection, and batteries are covered (checked or replaced) as part of that. Different batteries for different parts of the system would last a different amount of time. I replace most annually, but the average would be 2 years for radio devices; installer should keep track of all this as necessary.

If he is responsible for maintenance then you leave it up to him to replace anything, including the batteries. Monitoring condition of the batteries and replacing with the correct type as necessary would be part of the service/preventive maintenance. Users shouldn't have access to engineers functions as part of the standards.

Who is responsible for maintaining your system? There is a option to allow only the Master user tino the battery replacement mode but it's engineers configurable and default as off.

We do not provide defaulting or installation manuals here as per our guidelines. However, I am sure your favourite search engine of choice will provide.

You have two options if your doing yourself... try it and hope or no system. The installer should know how to deal with a lost engineers code, which may involve reprogramming the system. You should leave it up to them if you are under support obviously.

What does it say on your contract of employment, WTR can be wavered in there to avoid issues for the company.

Under the second plant pot on the right WFM

Depends what you mean as a "closed system". Remote monitoring to an ARC is more secure than a stand alone bells only system. Either way this topic is more about the distribution of firmware, I pretty much covered my opinion in the quote.

Down power the panel you'll get the bell ringing outside, that'll help find an intermittent beep...

You can't boost a signal that's inside a faraday cage...

Sounds real pro...

Well to much current for 7Ah. At least 12hours standby with one full activation. Some systems depending on the grade and signalling would be 24 hours plus one activation. Aux/Fault is Aux/Fault and Bell tamper is Bell tamper from the return, log will show this. Outputs are all programmable in software the bigger panels are already setup for LED control OOTB, wouldn't expect LED Control not being OOTB is an issue on domestic market the 24 is aimed at. I have already said what outputs for LED's should be programmed as. Don't use pull up resistors on the outputs.

Bigger PSU on the metal cab doesn't matter regarding SAB, your limited by the standby battery hence only one SAB would be the norm. Just set them to LC and recalculate or at least one to SCB, you have too much current IMO. Trigger is the output rating hence why you can wire 2 wire sounders in +ve and trig and they make a noise. Follow the manufacturer instructions for wiring tampers on Ody boxes you usually remove MSW on the first and series with MSW on second. Panels have outputs for PIR led's no resistors just straight from the output programmed "LED Control" They are all +ve to disable and no connection(NC) for LED enable AFAIK, but I generally use other manufacturers for detection

Texecom is now installer registered for Smartcom app. V1 Smartcom app is no longer available for new installs.

As I said in my OP, for wireless its batteries only, transmission via radio. Alternatively you could wire with alarm cable signalling via wiring the latter would be considered a "hybrid" system. Having the power supply outside of the sounder casing would be a security issue. Wired ones are self contained with a "hold-off" that would activate if the cable is cut for this reason.

I would wire the bell in alarm cable myself. I don't have any parts in mind to suit your full list of requirements. Had to fit those Mains sounders on one job in the past and I wouldn't recommend them at all. I am also pretty sure they are discontinued with no direct replacement, the 740 is batteries.