sixwheeledbeast

How do you know there isn't cable damage and it's not looping back through mains earth?

Do tests with the contact removed on open and closed circuit, compare difference you'll find your answer. Never do tests while circuits is connected to the controls.

Option 3 is junk and not an "alarm system". You need to decide if your doing it yourself or just getting a man that know what they are doing to just do it in half a day. We can't make that decision but you seem to want the system working and you have already worked out the hard way spending money to fix nothing, installer seems sensible?

Without the plastic housing there is no insulation and it will not really help you any further. especially with it being upside down. They are push fit they have a locator but it's not a "locking mechanism" as such. Something is clearly wrong if more than hand tight. You'll likely end up damaging to get off so get new set.

They slide off. It could be the wrong faston connector size for the blade and they have been forced on. Maybe corrosion or a leak has welded them on, the battery looks warped so possible that lack of maintenance has caused this. You will need to check the charging circuit and probably replace the leads if this is the case. The negative is also on upside down.

I wouldn't be stripping the outer sheath at the entry point, which sounds like your hinting at in the post? Cable anchors for multiples, maybe finger trunking if you have a large cab and lots of wiring, agree with JW there is practical tidy and overboard. Think about if when your finished it looks like it would be a PITA to add/remove/replace something while still keeping tidy.

Nuzon HG-2500? http://www.nuzon.com.tw/exec/product.php?mod=list&cid=2&lg=E Bin fodder

OOI. Do you refurb these? Would it matter if the PCB wasn't period?

No idea, never seen one. T4 and 5 are just a link. T8 and 9 are -ve rails, one would likely be for the bell. Four top pins could have been SAB battery? One side of top pins is T6 the other is via the 1W resistor to -ve It's the era I'd expect tamper switches to be microswitches with flying leads from terminals. It would be logical to have all the field wiring on the first few terminals and the rest for the bell internals.

Wait, we had chocolate ones? You hid them well, where they behind the smoke or the mirrors?

EN50131-2-8:2016 I would assume is the standard your referring to? If you think about it tapping a device with a screwdriver is hardly a break in, so how would that be the correct way to define if the device is fit for purpose or not? Manufacturers will have a test procedure for setting the sensitivity how do the instructions recommend you test them?

A main benefit of a wired system is compatibility

That has never been a thing. Elite manual will do for the basics, just don't expect all the features to be on the old panel. Program last two as Not Used

Systems that are unmaintained or poorly fitted will cry wolf but unfortunately there is nothing forcing people to have systems serviced regularly or fitted to any standard. There are noise pollution regulations but you would have to be regularly disturbing the peace for the council to get an order to contract someone to force entry to silence it. It's all a false sense of security IMO, at least if a traditional system with an app failed to get the message to you the system would work as expected to deter the burglar from hanging about.

Sound like a mess of a way to do it. If your too lazy to set it then HA isn't going to help much occupancy arming is flawed but I suppose you have little concern for security anyway if that's the issue. Waste of time IMO to be frank. As for the actual question you would have to interface with relays if your keeping the existing system or just bin the control panel off completely and have 12 volt supply for sensors and then closed loops from the pirs for status GPIO. It's no longer a security system with the latter option, all the security built in to a tradition alarm would be removed and simple to bypass for a burglar.

Contact your maintainer. They should have some idea what kit you have. A fuse blown would take out multiple devices and/or cause the bell to activate.

You may have two separate faults, these indicators wouldn't usually be related. Some external sounders will display faults with the comfort LED's separately a PIR not lighting up maybe a power/cable issue or faulty sensor. I doubt they are related. When was the system last inspected? These types of faults would usually be picked up as part of annual maintenance.

Just to point out yanking on tamper springs isn't most sensible idea unless you know what your doing. They can be over stretched and misalign with the casing or worst case you can pull the microswitch lever/button off if your not careful. As Mr.H knock it about see if you can reproduce the tamper is the best thing.

Welcome we have discussed this in great detail on the trade section of the forum.

In the programming menu then by the sounds of it.

On the PCB of the control panel, if no sensors light up that would be a good indication.

Stuck in engineering menu or some tamper and maybe fuse blown? Time to check over everything you have done and get the multimeter out.

Not necessarily transients could easily cause damage to the system, battery or not. I am not saying this to justify the engineers, maybe they did a poor job or are inexperienced with ancient kit, but that still doesn't rule out everything said above.

Security is a 24/7/365 industry. Your unlikely to switch maintainers over the holidays but you should have access to your current one if they are approved and it's what your contract provides. Maybe I am getting mixed up with the 800+ regarding full/home/night. If your getting entry tones from Zone 1 then it's probably not the entry timer then. I would imagine most people that have fitted them will not have programmed one in years. Personally with all the previous history you mention I wouldn't entertain trying to re-program wouldn't be worth the time for it to inevitably fail in the future.

Firstly, if you are paying for service you really should sort this issue out with the maintainer. These things are 20+ years old. Loss of programming is a sign of a failing panel the NVM should store this stuff even with power loss. The fact the battery fuse was popped in the past is worrying but we don't know the history for that from your post. Maybe a surge has caused damage that needs checking. Stuffing some programming in it and hoping will only have your ears ringing in the future. Anyway I can only imagine the entry time is 0, but been a long time since I had to mess with the programming on one. They have Away, Home and Night sets from what I recall, make sure you haven't programmed the wrong ones.