sixwheeledbeast

The is little point in transmitting power via a cable without messages. Completely wireless is no wiring, it's wired or wireless option per device. A wire would be multicore and provide power and trigger, tamper signals back to control panel. The SMPS is part of the control panel normally with proprietary or some molex connector as SMPS will need to provide fault output to conform to standards. Never seen any pro kit utilise solar it's a bit pointless kit has to be designed for all environments. It's also designed in a way that it can't be tampered with, or power removed without triggering an alert on the system. DIY stuff doesn't have standards to conform to so can often be easily defeated.

Are we talking professional kit? If so... Systems vary based on manufacturer but power source for the panel is generally mains connection to a switch mode power supply with some DC output to the PCB. This is contained within the panels cabinet. External sounders could be completely wireless or possibly have option for wired back to the panel in standard alarm cable with 12v connection (these would also have battery). They are suitable for external weather but are not IP rated. Batteries are mostly Lithium disposable and would have to be replaced periodically. External sounder batteries vary from manufacturer and can be special. Wireless would usually tie you to that manufacturer for wireless components, so all products need to be from the same product line, industry are mostly 868Mhz now but that doesn't mean you can mix products. I would generally use a hybrid system, wire as much as I can and use wireless only where necessary.

Probably best to leave the existing one in if it's all working and servicable. Ripping something out and not knowing how to replace it seems a daft idea. So many things could go wrong and you'd be left with an non-working system plus annoying the neighbours outside with the bell ringing and no way to isolate it. You explain everything you believe you understand but not much on what you need help with. If you are going to try this yourself then setting up the new system separately (bench test) would be the way to go. Make sure all the programming for panel and sensors is correct, simulate all your sensors with loops of wire or resistors, testing outputs with a multimeter. Get everything right before you start, DIY often spend months asking questions on why x and y isn't working, it's a security system after all, as much use as a chocolate fireguard if setup wrong.

Different images maybe slightly different issue. You can't compare with front camera as that is still in day mode.

Sounds like IR "splashback". IR's are reflecting back off the bubble. The tolerance between the bubble and foam maybe off. need to make sure the foam is in contact with the bubble You may also have this issue due to the acute angle of the camera, reflecting off nearby surfaces or within it's metal casing, so reduce the angle. If it's still an issue replace for different type and use that one elsewhere.

Not worth messing if you have only an NVR. You'd need IP encoders. Just get IP cameras.

Come to think of it, the way the OP says its a "Veritas 8 alarm system" maybe it is a Gardtec Speech Dialler on a Veritas? Could explain the wiring coming from different directions and an "oF" on the display. Who knows when people ask questions with limited information and then never return... Still a line fault to fix either way.

You can lead a horse to water...

Not a Veritas it's Gardtec and means line fault.

It will vary by model and manufacturer, in theory they could poll each other I doubt the majority for domestic do. If they are mains powered and radio interlinked then battery power is less of an issue. I fully agree that the emissions from this stuff is negligible your neighbours WiFi, nearby cell towers, traffic lights....(list goes on) will be emitting more energy. I have already posted a type suitable if you don't want wireless.

It's still the same question really. You also have to consider data protection for all that customer data. It would be an integral part of the main database for most here. If you didn't you are maintaining multiple databases.

How are you scheduling and issuing work to people at the moment?

Aico 180 series

Say multipack not to be sold separately on the back?

Only if it's mounted with blu-tac.

You don't say what model Elite Veritas is a double pole only panel so you have put resistors in detectors? If the keypad is unresponsive to the code then you have an issue on the network line, check panel LED's adjacent network for faults or for double address.

Not possible currently AFAIK. The only way I know you can arm a specific Part Arm is with SMS module and the "parm" command. You can get outputs from if Part 1,2,3 is set/unset but no way to set 2 or 3 directly apart from above.

Yep, just set all equipment, users and zones back to A only.

If both areas are Final Door you can't arm everything from one location. Entry/Exit 1 and 2 are just different timers not necessarily routes. I would suggest to either set it up as one system all A for now and then in future if you need to separate it into two systems you can use areas and local arming so it would be like having two systems.

You can Disable zones for all modes in the Disable Suite but you also have option to disable full set zones individually on a Excel. It maybe programmed as some Auxillary zone type instead of an alarm one, even if the zone is enabled. Or Silent PA, a number of things I suppose. If you don't know the best way to prove hardware is to default the panel to make sure there is no daft settings been set and forgot about.

Could be bell/panel or wire between. depends how it's all wired. If external tamper was linked and bell duff could feedback to internal with no log events, for exmaple.

Hope it doesn't do it again...? There is no guarantees it was the LM terminal and even so maybe testing it didn't show voltage that was there. Is everything powered from the panel so LM is at the same potential? It could be something daft with the panel or the dialler to be fair. I would remove all the dialler wiring and then try reset if it did it again that will prove the panel not dailler.

Also .. if you are a tenant in the house ask the landlord before you do anything. Systems would be recommended for inspection and batteries checked annually, then replaced on average every 5 year. Unmaintained systems are a headache waiting to happen at 4am. If you don't wish to use the system at all in the future, then best to have the system decommissioned rather than it consuming electricity and causing issues like this for you in the future.

It maybe best to find an installer that works on Scantronic systems in your area. Explain you need a service but you also have a fault occurring while the system is disarmed. Further diagnosis would depend on what is wrong, but an engineer would start with looking at the fault displayed on the keypad and testing all the wiring and panel vitals with a multimeter to get some idea and then work from there.

9930 is the model of the keypad not the alarm system it's connected to. When was the system last serviced? From what you describe you have some tamper fault which would need further diagnosis.