sixwheeledbeast

If you could, it wouldn't conform with latest intruder regs any more. Maybe it has some BS or EN option for compatiblity? Connection to an intruder system I would see as an auxiliary, the fire "system" needs to work stand alone without this. If not you have a potential hazard waiting to happen when you need it most. In a domestic situation I'd be more interested in finding everyone than messing with a keypad.

Most routers have DDNS support. Some have there own service, or a limited selection of web ones. Better routers you can manually use pretty much any DDNS service. Most of the free web ones require you to manually login monthly.

have the router do it CGNAT is done by the provider to provide more connections on a single IP, most mobile data connections have CGNAT. For a wired connection it's unlikely

Assuming there is no CGNAT, yes Dynamic DNS will be fine. There is no IPv4 address space left so getting a v4 address is hard, especially for free.

Slightly related, the new Amendment 2 changes a number of things around cabling in escape routes. Only cables allowed are for use in that area, as short as practical. LSF, no PVC trunking (even with metal clips) due to smoke emitted. Anything low level, full mechanical protection so it can't be pulled from the wall "within arms reach".

C-Type days, standalone strobes can be a few hundred mA.

Long straight run with drops, catenary could be an option.

I'd nail the fixing band if I had a nailer. Spit nailer will do most surfaces, fixy band or metal ties size is adjustable to the job. The cable staples are timber only, one at a time, nice if you are just in bungalows maybe?

Fixy band?

The system will still rearm regardless, the number of times its programmed for. You just don't have the strobe flashing all the time until you get to site.

Where are you thinking of?

If your concerned about current look at the specifications of the output and what the device will pull, but would expect it to be fine.

Don't use Galaxy much but it's just what the default programming is IIRC. 1=Bell 2=Strobe, you could use whichever they are programmable. A dry relay with only one wire isn't connecting to anything on contact changeover. FWIW I would also use "bell follow" type output for strobe, to cancel the strobe with the bell like above.

Find of mine has a T72, as above I wouldn't use it enough. Also looks a bit bulky for awkward spaces.

Why repair the bell, it's something else to break. They'll always get hold of you if they need you...

That will be it yes.

No. PSTN stuff needs to be filtered and the modem/router would be the only device unfiltered. Assuming this is a xDSL connection. You should also beware Openreach don't like you messing with their equipment and will charge if they find an issue with it.

Just need the masking tape and yacht varnish.

The test pads are measured in millivolts, it will be the same reason Wintex shows an incorrect value, it's not a direct ammeter. So it sounds like you have may have an earth fault. Continuity between electrical earth and negative?

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I don't like working on these things, as above they do daft things. You end up power cycling them or reprogramming them to clear weird faults. From a DIY POV you are already at the limit of your ability as you say, so your left with finding another installer. You could put another set of batteries in and hope. You will likely be able to clear most faults with your user code, arming then disarming. I would want to replace the system for something else if it wasn't as simple as batteries.

Everything on an alarm has some sort of battery somewhere, if it's for primary or standby use depends on the component and/or the system. Standard wired alarm bellboxes have a built in rechargeable pack that will trigger the bell if the power is lost. If in SCB mode it will use this pack for the bell siren in all situations.