sixwheeledbeast

The terms "Interior" and "Bypass" are not UK English terms, 816 was part of "International series" panels. Factory default as instructions is factory default so everything as factory... I think your just getting confused with Wintex or something? You probably only need to make the spare zones Not Used and test regarding wiring type.

I don't believe there is anything wrong with the components, something is just not programmed or wired correctly from what I can gather. Use the factory default procedure as explained in the manual, we don't provide default information here. I am assuming this isn't a UK system as the language is not set to UK English? You also mention a 816 which isn't a UK panel. Or maybe the Elite24 is UK English but you last screenshots are a 816?

I'd say above. Could default and start again, then only program out what has no wires. This rules out all the settings you've played with. I don't believe Zone Status updates in Wintex if set Not Used?

I don't see a point in doing these tests if your wiring DEOL anyway? Put all the network and system back and work on each fault. Reset and see what is left. Repeat.

Wiring type?

Anything is "possible" with some hacky workarounds, wouldn't be recommended at all tho. As explained your Accenta has no concept of TCP/IP

Sensors don't bleep like a smoke detector, although it's possible the panel could if unset with an issue. Systems are not designed to be easily disabled, you would have to get up to every device. You should have your system serviced correctly and then use your system while your away.

Look nice for DIY'ers. Seems a bit on the expensive side for what they are, can buy small metal brackets or 30m of fixy band for that money. I understand thought has gone into making them universal, but too easy to unscrew and take the device for security systems.

Touched on that in this thread recently. 360's are generally used where wall mounting is unsuitable.

Would say you have common sense for that... sparks and hotness would be a bad time.

Was thinking a battery but yes not the system incase the devices are faulty.

Are you in the UK? Not a brand seen here. It could be the output is blown if it's been overloaded? Put 12v on the sounders see if they work?

Depends where and what terminals your testing. Also what panel and type of sounder(s) would be helpful. For external sounders there is a constant hold off voltage plus a negative trigger.

May take a while yet tho. After changeover consider if you use their router provided FXS port that no power, means no dialling tone.

Sound like bell delay setup for signalling. Something this age I would want to recommend upgrade for reliability really.

We don't provide defaulting information, codes or engineering manuals here as per our guidelines. We have no way of verifying you are not trying to tamper with a system that is not your own. Installers use their own codes they wouldn't leave them default as that could be exploited. If the system is maintained you should contact your installer, if not follow the manual you have to start fresh. However, you will need knowledge of how to program everything back or it will not function properly.

Wouldn't expect the NVR needs 12V just a closed loop on it's own input/output, hence needing a relay. Voltages shouldn't be shared between them

Volt free would be a relay so would be marked COM/NC/NO, if it's a single terminal it will be switched output so you will need a relay. Manual will say if it's +ve/-ve applied or removed then you need to use an auxiliary voltage for the other coil side of the relay. Should be transistorised relay too due to possible back EMF.

Yer it's not usual, most places would want to install there own supplied kit. It can create warranty issues for starters.

Exactly and even so you often don't get near the 2amp because you can't get the (mains off) standby time required for the battery capacity.

Still wouldn't use wireless if your first fixing. You say uneconomical but you will be thinking different after a few years worth of lithium batteries. Yes you are incorrect to have one panel, you will need a much larger area than you think to mount control kit. It's not the zone capacity it's the power supplies and battery capacity that is the deciding factor. I would be thinking at least PE48 with one PSU200XP possibly more, if using Texe kit from what has been described. You may want both perimeter and motion detection, pet sensors are not ideal solution if you have a blank slate and are more for retrofiting when a customer gets pets, they can be hit and miss. 360 is more for where you can't cover with standard sensors you don't get the same coverage depending on the ceiling height, ideal for retail environments and maybe on domestic a garage or something but not the norm. If you go with the company route then don't concern yourself with manufacturer selection, they should use what they are trained on to provide you a good service.

Why? Just wire everything if your building it. Personally only use wireless where I have no other aesthetically suitable option on retrofit. At this point I am thinking you should consider just cabling to keep cost down but first liaising with a company that can install a monitored system let them do the second fix etc. For pets you need perimeter protection really, so contacts and/or shocks all round every opening you can access. Sensors minimum quads for normal rooms DT's for more harsh enviroments so garage etc Shocks are mounted to the frame you need to read spec sheets for areas covered and positioning depending on construction, ideally need some experience or careful reading when setting up, you may get false alarm if you fit will no commision. I would always say separate systems for redundancy Maybe but would only detect breaking glass and not other entry types. More usual to have them in retail environment. That is something you would have to decide yourself, every installer has there own preference for this but we're fitting it all the time. I wouldn't rate value over reliability, in theory you shouldn't need to contact technical support if you know the product. Not looked at drawings but you want to minimise how much of the house your walking through to switch the system off. We consider entry routes as doors where you would arm/disarm the system on leaving. If all 5 doors would be used like that then maybe but I doubt it. You could do something like this yes, but not the norm.

Speaker outputs usually have a volume control and that volume control is only for the tones and chime not alarm. Depending on the controls it maybe programmable in the settings or a potentiometer on the PCB, I don't know the I-on but it will be somewhere.

Lets hope it's reliable then...

It's extremely rare for kit to be DOA. However, removing all external wires from the system and putting the factory links back then defaulting the panel as per the instructions would be the best way to test the panel. After that if you have issues something probably wrong with the panel. Maybe keypad ribbon issue or something more serious on the PCB as been blown. Also not sure what you have linked out but there are no tamper circuits for keypads it's a data bus, so hopefully you haven't shorted that out, that would cause issues.